This is a journey along Watling Street, the most important Roman road which runs East to West across Great Britain.

Travellers on the road were served by a system of way stations or mansios. The privately owned Cauponae were also established along the routes, providing basic hostel-like accommodation. However, the upper classes would use the better tabernae; these began as houses on the roadside offering a service similar to B&Bs (bed and breakfasts) today. Travellers also needed sufficient money to pay the various tolls along the way.

Watling Street starts in Dover (Portus Dubris) or Richborough (Rutupiae), from where it travels north-east to London (Londinium), via St Albans (Verulamium), High Cross (Venonis) to Wroxeter (Virconium), where it crosses the river Severn¹. After the river crossing, the road makes a sharp southern turn, necessary to complete the journey south to Leintwardine (Bravonium).

As it continues south, Watling Street becomes Stone Street and continues through to Usk (Burrium) and Caerleon (Iscia Silurum), a major seaport on the river Usk with access to the river Severn and the sea. This would suggest trade goods entered Roman Britain from both ends of this major thoroughfare and were distributed throughout Britain, and on to the rest of the Roman world.

The Start of Watling Street

Watling Street has two starting points: one at Dover (Portus Dubris) and the other at Richborough (Rutupiae); both are on the Kent coast, and were originally forts and ports.

• Richborough (Rutupiae) - The original landing site of the 43 AD invasion by Claudius and important enough for a Triumphal Arch to be erected at the fort to commemorate the landing. The Arch has long since gone but the foundations have been located.

• Dover (Portus Dubris) - The younger fort (but not by much) and clearly the better placed as the town flourished and developed into a prosperous town and a major port.

We are going to travel back in time to 100 - 200 AD, when the journey described in this Entry would have been possible. You will see 28 settlements, ranging from the grand to the rural. Some of these settlements existed just to serve the garrison of the fort near where they were built, however, they also provided shelter to the weary travellers on Watling Street.

The journey on foot will take a minimum of about 12 days - that's assuming you walk eight hours a day, travelling an average of 32 to 33 miles per day. It is interesting to note that the longest distance between any points on the journey is the 33 miles (one day's travel) between Kenchester (Magnis) and Brecon Gaer (Y Gaer). As wagons and carts could be as slow as eight miles a day, travellers could use the system of mansios, cauponae and tabernae. All distances given are starting from Dover; if starting from Richborough simply deduct three miles from any total mileage figure given.

A Key To The Condition Of The Towns

This shows what condition each of the towns and sites mentioned below are in today.

1. Nothing now visible or built over
2. Building platforms, mounds and crop marks
3. Some ruins are visible above ground
4. Visible site with museum support
5. A major site and tourist attraction

Richborough

Roman name: Rutupiae
Translation: 'The muddy estuary'
Condition: 4

The town of Richborough was founded on the original landing site of the 43 AD invasion by Claudius and was important enough for a triumphal arch to be erected at the town to commemorate the landing and the capitulation of the local British tribal leaders. Entering and passing through the arch signified formal entry into Roman Britain.

Although the inscription from Richborough's arch has sadly not survived, it was reported to have been a duplicate of the one which was found on the arches in Rome and Boulogne (Claudius's departure point for Britain). The best preserved inscription is that on the arch in Rome.

For Tiberius Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus, son of Drusus, High Priest, holding tribunician power for the eleventh time, Consul for the fifth time, hailed Imperator in the field twenty-two times, Censor, Father of his country. The Senate and the People of Rome have dedicated this because he accepted the surrender of eleven British tribal leaders, subdued without any losses, the first to reduce barbarian tribes across the Ocean to the rule of the Roman people²

Richborough was a large settlement around the fort and the town grew into a competitor of Dover. A mansio was set up in the town. A civic centre, an amphitheatre, baths and temples were all built in the town. Well-paved steets linked these buildings. The private homes were built with timber and stone. Mosaic floors and painted plasterwork have been found, sadly now all ruined. The town was famous throughout the Empire for the quality of its oyster beds.

Roads off Watling Street at this location:

• Journey on to the South to the Worth Temple: 3 miles, and on to Dover (Portus Dubris): 11 miles
• On Watling Street continue west to Canterbury (Durobrivae): 11 miles

Dover

Roman name: Portus Dubris
Translation: 'Port on the Dubris River'
Condition: 5

Dover was founded as the port closest to the Empire at the mouth of the river Dour. The first garrison was the fleet Classis Britannica, appointed to patrol the waters around Britain and guard the channel. The port was marked by a Pharos⁴ on each side of the harbour mouth. The town had a basilica, forum, temples and baths. The homes were of timber and stone and mosaic floors and painted plasterwork were not uncommon. The town also had a very busy trading area.

Total so far: 0 miles.

Roads off Watling Street at this location:

• To the North: Richborough (Rutupiae)
• On Watling Street continue west to Canterbury (Durovernum Cantiacorum): 14 miles

Canterbury

Roman name: Durovernum Cantiacorum
Translation: 'The walled town near the alder swamp'
Condition: 4

Canterbury was first founded as a fort in 43 AD. The town was then given the status of civitas⁵ in 80 AD. It was at this point the town's expansion began. With good connections to the Empire (especially Gaul across the Channel), trade flourished. A basilica, forum, temple and baths were built; these were followed by a temple complex. The homes were of timber and stone and mosaic floors were not uncommon. There was a wide variety of shops. Bronze-making and brick, tile and pottery production were all established in the town.

Total so far: 14 miles.

Roads off Watling Street at this minor road junction:

• To the North: Reculver (Regulbium)
• To the East: Richborough (Rutupiae)
• To the South: Lympne (Portus Lemanis)
• On Watling Street continue west to Ospringe/Faversham (Durolevum): 11 miles

Ospringe/Faversham

Roman name: Durolevum/Dorolvo
Translation: 'A stronghold by the clear stream'
Condition: 3

Ospringe was a small settlement founded to the south of Watling Street. It was built as a defended settlement with a ditch and earth and timber ramparts. It had timber-framed housing and a few trade buildings and shops. The streets were mainly paved and the town had some impressive stone buildings that were possibly temples. There was a trade in iron in the town from a local mine at Brenley. From here, the road travels through some of the richest farmland in Britain; either side of Watling Street a farm or villa can be found about every mile or so, including some rich and important estates.

Total so far: 25 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street continue west to Rochester (Durobrivis): 17 miles

Rochester

Roman name: Durobrivis
Translation: 'The walled town with a bridge'
Condition: 2

Rochester is situated at the first suitable inland point where a bridge could be built, clear of the floodplain and with solid banks on either side of the river Medway. The Latin name of the town Durobrivae means 'the walled town with a bridge' or 'fort with or near a bridge'. This confirms the town had a bridge crossing from the beginning of the Roman period. The Mansio for the town was sited to the northern side of Watling Street in a hamlet known as Seddingbourne - 'Hamlet beside the Creek' (Sittingbourne today).

Total so far: 42 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street, walk west to Springhead (Vagniacis) 9 miles

Springhead

Roman name: Vagniacis
Translation: 'A place of marshes'
Condition: 2

Springhead was both an important settlement and a major religious centre. The town was the site of a pool and springs dedicated to the deity Vagniacis. The pool was enclosed by a walled sanctuary with ten or more temples surrounding it. Of the five main temples, two were built with a square floor plan and three had a rectangular plan. They were all built alongside Watling Street. There was a local pottery industry near the town. The settlement consisted of stone and timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings, with paved streets, inns and bathhouses. The town also had a small port on the Ebbsfleet river. The landmark on this part of the trip is the villa estate at Lullingstone. The estate is set in the landscape with many smaller farms and villas. It was started in 75 AD and was built on the banks of the river Darneth. The road passes to the north of Lullingstone.

Total so far: 51 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street continue west to Crayford (Noviomagus): 7 miles

Crayford

Roman name: Noviomagus (Noviomago)
Translation: 'The new town of the Cantiaci'
Condition: 1

Crayford was a trading settlement built alongside Watling Street. The settlement consisted of timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings. The streets were mainly paved.

Total so far: 58 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street continue west to London (Londinium): 12 miles

London

Roman name: Londinium
Translation: 'The town of Lugh'
Condition: 5

Founded in 43 AD, London was originally a fort. It was constructed at a suitable point on the Thames where a bridge could be built using the islands in the river. Protected by substantial walls and a legionary fort, Londinium's houses were mostly built from stone. It had many fine stone municipal buildings, including a governor's palace, theatres and temples. The streets were mainly paved. The town achieved the status of provincial capital in 190 AD.

Total so far: 70 miles.

Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:

• To the north-west: Lincoln (Lindum)
• To the north-east: Chelmsford (Caesaromagus), Colchester (Camulodunum), Baylim House (Combretovium) and Castor St Edmunds (Venta Icenorum)
• To the south: Lympne (Portus Lemanis) and Chichester (Noviomagus)
• On Watling Street leaving the city by the Aldersgate, continue north-west to Brockley Hill (Sulloniacis): 22 miles

Brockley Hill

Roman name: Sulloniacis
Translation: 'The Sulh stream'
Condition: 1

The settlement developed around a legionary fort in approximately 45 AD. Brockely Hill was a very small trading settlement built alongside Watling Street.

Total so far: 92 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street continue north-west to St Albans (Verulamium): 8 miles

St Albans

Roman name: Verulamium
Translation: 'The town above the marsh'
Condition: 5

Built alongside the river Ver, Verulamium⁶ was founded in 40 AD, and was originally a fort. The town was given the status of Municipium in 49 AD. It was enclosed by a wall and ditch and had a fine forum, a basilica and a theatre. The streets were paved or cobbled.

Total so far: 100 miles.

From here on this minor road junction you could journey on towards:

• The West: Colchester (Camulodunum)
• On Watling Street continue north-west to Dunstable (Durocobrivis): 9 miles

Dunstable

Roman name: Durocobrivis
Translation: 'The hill market'
Condition: 1

Dunstable was founded in 46 AD, as a way station at a point where Watling Street crossed the Icknield Way. This grew into a small market town and was named Durocobrivis. Dunstable was a small settlement consisting of timber-framed housing and buildings and mainly paved streets.

Total so far: 109 miles.

Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:

• To the North-West: Baldock (On the Icknield Way)
• To the North:Godmanchester (Dunovigutum)
• To the South: Marlborough (Canelio) and North Church (on the Icknield Way)
• On Watling Street continue north-west to Dropshort (Magiovnium): 12 miles

Dropshort/Little Brickhill

Roman name: Magiovinto
Translation: 'Great river plain'
Condition: 1

Founded in 49 AD as a Roman fort, Dropshort was built at a point where Watling Street crossed the River Ouzel. This grew into a small oval settlement defended by earth ramparts.

Total so far: 121 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street continue north-west to Towcester (Lactodurum): 17 miles

Towcester

Roman name: Lactodurum
Translation: 'The camp on the Tove river'
Condition: 3

Towcester was first founded in 45 AD, on a bend of the river Tove. It was built on the south side of the river's bank and marked a point where a ford allows Watling Street to cross the Tove. A defended⁷ settlement, it consisted mainly of timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings. The streets were mainly paved.

As you travel though the countryside dotted with farms on your way to Whilton Lodge, keep your eyes peeled for Whitehall Villa (the largest villa in the area) and its farm about eight miles out of Towcester.

Total so far: 138 miles. Congratulations - you have made it to what is roughly the half way point on the Watling Street part of the journey.

Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:

• To the South: Akerman Street to Alchester and Dorchester
• On Watling Street continue north-west to Whiton Lodge (Bannavena): 12 miles

Whilton Lodge

Roman name: Bannaventa
Translation: 'A gap in the hills'
Condition: 2

Bannaventa was possibly founded before the arrival of the Romans in Britain. It was built as a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and a ditch. It was built alongside Watling Street in a prosperous agricultural area. The important villa estate of Lockleys is located ten miles to the north of this point of Watling Street⁸. The settlement consisted of timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings. The streets were mainly paved.

Total so far: 150 miles.

Roads off Watling Street at this minor road junction:

• To the West: Northampton
• On Watling Street continue north-west to Caves Inn (Tripontium): 11 miles

Caves Inn

Roman name: Tripontium
Translation: 'The town with three bridges'
Condition: 2

Tripontium was possibly founded by the Romans in 54 AD. It was built as a defended settlement with a ditch and earth and timber ramparts. It was named after the three nearby bridges.

Tripontium was built to defend a crossing of the Avon. The river protected the settlement to the south east. The Dow bridge spanned the river (the first bridge). There was a stream to the south east flowing into the Avon. This was spanned by another bridge into the town (the second bridge). The river Swift guarded the north western approaches to the town and access to Tripontium was via a road bridge (the third bridge). Tripontium was a settlement consisting of timber-framed housing, a few stone municipal buildings and mainly paved streets.

Total so far: 161 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street continue north-west to High Cross (Venonis):7 miles

High Cross

Roman name: Venonis
Translation: 'Place of poison plants'
Condition: 2

High Cross was founded before the arrival of the Romans in Britain, and was built as a defended settlement with a ditch and earth and timber ramparts. It was constructed at the junction of Watling Street and the Fosse Way and consisted of a settlement of timber-framed housing, a few trade buildings and mainly paved streets.

Total so far: 168 miles. You're doing well - this is approximately the half way point of the journey to Caerleon (Iscia Silurum).

The crossroads with the Fosse Way Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:

• To the North: Leicester (Ratae), East Stoke (Adronten) and Lincoln (Lindum)
• To the South: Cirencester (Corinium) and Illchester (Lindinis)
• On Watling Street continue north-west to Mancetter (Mandvessedum): 10 miles

The Battle of Watling Street

The Roman Governor, Gaius Suetonius Paulinus and a force of 10,000 men defeated Boudicca and her army of 80,000 in this area in 60 AD. The scattered traces of the burial mounds of the 80,000 Iceni who were killed can still be seen today.

Mancetter

Roman name: Mandvessedum
Translation: 'The place of war chariots'
Condition: 2

Mancetter was at first a defended settlement with a ditch and earth and timber ramparts. It was built at the junction of Watling Street and the river Anker. Mancetter was a prosperous settlement of timber framed and stone housing, stone built municipal buildings, trade buildings, warehouses and paved streets. The town was the centre for a pottery producing industry that supplied the whole province. There were over 20 pottery kilns sited to the south of the town, and it was the home town of the potter Icotasgus, amongst others. There is also evidence of the manufacture and trade of glassware.

Total so far: 178 miles.

Roads off Watling Street at this location:

• To the North-East: Leicester (Ratae)⁹
• On Watling Street continue north-west to Wall (Letocetum): 15 miles

Wall

Roman name: Letoceto
Translation: 'The grey woodlands'
Condition: 3

Watling Street passes east to west through this town which was founded in 45 AD. The settlement was defended with ditches and earth and timber ramparts. Letoceto had a wide variety of housing, several temples, an amphitheatre, stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets. To the east of the town, there was a junction of Watling Street and Ryknield Street. The town was a major market for trade between the local tries of the Coratani 'from the Leicester area' and the Cornovii 'from the Wroxeter area'.

Total so far: 193 miles.

The crossroads with the Icknield Way. Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:

• To the North: Manchester (Mancunium) and Derby
• To the South: Cirencester (Glevum)
• On Watling Street continue north-west to Water Eaton (Pennocruoio): 14 miles

Water Eaton

Roman name: Pennocruoio
Translation: 'Town on the end of a ridge'
Condition: 1

Watling Street passes east to west through Water Easton, which was founded at first as a way station and situated on an important road junction near the river Penk. Water Eaton was a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and triple ditches. It had a wide variety of housing, some municipal buildings, and paved streets. There was a junction of Watling Street and the Icknield Way to the east of the town; two military roads also joined Watling Street here.

Total so far 207 miles.

The crossroads with the Icknield Way. Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:

• To the North-West: Whitchurch (Mediolan)
• To the South: Droitwich (Salinae), Gloucester (Glevum) and Bath (Aquae Sulis)
• On Watling Street continue north-west to Redhill (Uxacona): 12 miles

Redhill

Roman name: Uxacona
Translation: 'The Red Hill'
Condition: 1

Redhill was founded as a fort and signal station and was situated on the highest part of Watling Street. It was a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and ditches.

Total so far: 219 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street continue north-west to Wroxeter (Virconium): 11 miles

Wroxeter

Roman name: Virconium
Translation: 'The town of Vinco'
Condition: 5

Wroxeter was first founded as a fort in about 58 AD. It developed into a walled town with a port. Access to the sea was via the upper reaches of the river Severn. The town had a wide variety of quality housing, several temples, a theatre, stone municipal buildings and mainly paved streets. The city produced and traded pottery, salt¹⁰ and iron.

Total so far: 230 miles.

Roads off Watling Street at this minor road junction:

• To the North: Whitchurch (Mediolan)
• On Watling Street continue south to the Stratford Bridge Camp: 19 miles

The Stratford Bridge Camp - Roman Fort

This was a Roman fort and garrison. Stratford Bridge was located on the junction of the road known as the Hen Ffordd¹¹ and the route south to Forden Gaer, Greensford and the Brecon Roman road junction. There was basic accommodation for the traveller and a small basic trading settlement which catered for military traffic in the area.

Total so far: 249 miles.

Roads off Watling Street at this minor road junction:

• To the North: Whitchurch (Mediolan)
• The junction with the Hen Ffordd on its route south to Brecon Gaer (Y Gaer)
• On Watling Street continue south to Leintwardine (Bravonium): 6 miles

Leintwardine

Roman name: Bravonium
Translation: 'The town of the Quern'
Condition: 2

Leintwardine was founded in 70 AD, initially as a vicus. A vicus (plural - vici) was a settlement that developed adjacent to an official Roman establishment, usually a fort. The Roman fort and garrison were close to the settlement which was situated north of the Teme river. This fortified town had a wide variety of housing, some municipal buildings, temples to the god Jupiter and the Divine Emperors, a trading centre with traders shops and paved streets.

Total so far: 255 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Watling Street continue south to Kenchester (Magnis): 21 miles

Kenchester

Roman name: Magnis
Translation: 'The place of rocks'
Condition: 2

Kenchester was from the first a defended settlement with a ditch and earth and timber ramparts. It was built at the terminus of Watling Street and marked the start of Stone Street which led south into Wales and to the coast. Kenchester was a prosperous settlement of timber framed and stone housing, paved streets, stone built municipal buildings including baths, trade buildings, shops, workshops and warehouses.

Total so far: 276 miles.

From here on this major road terminus you could journey on to:

• On Stone Street continue south to Brecon Gaer (Y Gaer): 33 miles

Stone Street To Caerleon

Brecon Gaer

Roman name: Cicucium
Translation: 'The camp'
Condition: 2

Known as the fiveways road junction, Brecon Gaer was the hub of network of minor routes which served this part of Wales. A defended settlement near the river Honddu, with a wide variety of housing, a temple, a trading centre, stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets. Facilities for the traveller were provided.

Total so far: 309 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 33 miles on Stone Street.

To continue your journey:

• On Stone Street continue south to The Fort at Pen-Y-Gaer: 11 miles

The Roman Fort at Pen-Y-Gaer

Total so far: 320 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 44 miles on Stone Street.

To continue your journey:

• On Stone Street continue south to The Fort at Abergavenny: 9 miles

The Roman fort at Abergavenny

Total so far: 329 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 53 miles on Stone Street.

To continue your journey:

• On Stone Street continue south to Usk (Burrium): 10 miles

Usk

Roman name: Burrium
Translation: 'The place of knobs or hills'
Condition: 3

Usk was a defended settlement with a wide variety of housing, a busy market and a trading centre. There were several temples, an amphitheatre, good stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets.

Total so far: 339 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 63 miles on Stone Street.

To continue your journey:

• On Stone Street continue south to Caerleon (Iscia Silurum): 6 miles

Caerleon

Roman name: Iscia Silurum
Translation: 'The waterside settlement of the Silures'
Condition: 5

Caerleon was founded in about 75 AD on the site of an Iron Age hill fort as a Roman legionary fortress for the Legio II Augusta. It was known as Usk of the Silures, as the Silures were the Celtic tribe of that area. Caerleon was a fairly prosperous town with temples to Jupiter, Diana and Fortuna. Altars have been found dedicated to Mithras and Mercurius. Caerleon was a walled town with a wide variety of housing, several temples, an amphitheatre, stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets.

You have now completed your journey! You travelled 345 miles: 276 miles on Watling Street and 69 miles on Stone Street.

Notes on Roman Roads

A Roman mile is 1,000 paces and a milestone was set up to mark each mile. Each milestone had a dedication to the Emperor of the day. At the high of the expansion of the Empire, roads were built at the rate of 1 kilometre every day.

The Roman surveying tool the groma or 'surveyor's cross' could not be used to survey round corners. It was a line-of-sight tool that could only be used to plot stright lines as in roads, or in 90 degree right angles as used in laying out towns. Thus Roman roads are straight or cornered in a series of straight sections.