h2g2 The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy: Earth Edition

You can get digital cameras with an anti-shake function. Not too sure how that works though.

Xanatic, please see my post 64 F19585?thread=2545024&skip=60&show=20

Incidentally what is the difference between a digital SLR and a standard digital camera? I would have thought there was no reason not to show on the screen exactly what is picked up by the CCD chips.

a) there's a mirror in front of the sensor which reflects the light up into the viewfinder. There is no light getting to the sensor. Now you could argue, why can't you lock the mirror up which would black out the view finder but allow you to see the output on the LCD......

b) it's something to do with the electronics regarding switching from live read-out mode to picture-taking mode. This is one of the reasons for the shutter lag of point-and-shoot digicams - the time delay is due to this change taking place. One of the reasons dSLRs produce better images is because the sensors are designed specifically for photo taking and not live readout.

There are several other technicalities but those are the two main reasons.

For assorted reasons I will be buying a digital SLR camera of the semi-professional type. I want one that has a metal body and hopefully a semi-pro camera will last longer so I don't mind spending the extra.
There are mainly 2 choices I have in mind, the Nikon D200 or the Canon EOS 5D.
Does anyone have any of those cameras and what are they like? I know absolutly nothing about digital SLRs as am using a film based SLR. The magazines are full of details but the whole thing is very confusing.
If you use any of those what computer do you use, what programmes do you use, basically I would like to know what computer based stuff you use so I have some idea where to start!! I would like to know what you use from camera to printer you use with the 2 cameras I mentioned, trying to work it out is really confusing.
.
I have a basic review buyers guide which says that on the Nikon D200 "JPEGS often need processing" as one of the things against the camera, Presumably they mean that you can't just print them without work being done, have you found this to be so, and does this mean you can't often do direct printing as I don't really want to spend hours on a computer if I can help it.
On the Canon EOS 5D one of the things against it was very slight edge fringing, if you own one have you found this to be true.
.
Regarding both cameras, have you found the colour rendition to be fairly natural or too warm or cold?

I have a D70. Not one of the cameras you mentioned but the workflow is basically the same for all Nikon dSLRs.

I use Nikon Capture to convert my RAW images from the camera. Here I do all the RAW adjustments like correcting any white balance issues, correcting exposure if required, sharpening - that sort of thing. I don't find the colour rendition to be natural or too warm or cold since it's completely adjustable through the white balance corrections. The auto white balance isn't that great I generally do have to do a slight adjustment. But only for one image and then I just apply it to all the rest assuming the light doesn't change too much.

From there if I'm happy with the image I save it straight out as a JPEG. If there are more corrections I want to do I save as TIFF and load the image into Paint Shop Pro where I usually do things like straightening the horizon, cropping, cloning things out etc. From there the final JPEG is produced.

I use Photobox for all my printing. I find the image quality is far better than any of the inkjet printers out there, not to mention significantly cheaper per image.

As to the PC I use it's a home built one. Nikon Capture is a bit of a resource hog so you need something reasonably powerful with a decent amount of memory but nothing over the top. Mine cost my about £700 to build just over six months ago.

As regarding "JPEGS often need processing" I find this to be true from ANY digital camera. Sure the images can be printed direct from the camera and they look fine. But a good image can be transformed into a great image with just a little work on the PC. You don't have to spend hours at it, just a few minutes adjusting the curves and a touch of unsharp mask.

Obviously being a Nikon owner I'm going to recommend the D200 but to be honest either camera will be great there's not much to choose between them these days. Just go to a camera shop and play with both of them and see which one feels best to you in use.

Check out the two @ http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond200/page21.asp

My hubby's just bought a Canon EOS 350D, chosen largely to be compatible with existing lenses & attachments.

Not enough use to comment on results yet, but comparing use with my 'snappy' digital, I find that there are a few buttons which can be pressed inadvertently too easily. Definitely advisable to actually handle different models before purchasing.

I had also thought about the Fuji Finepix S3 Pro due it its good quality colour on its photos, but it has just been announced the production has ended due to its age, however the new version maybe even better, hopefully there will an annuncement soon.

I'm sure Fuji's dSLR's are just as good as any other make. The think you've got to think about is lens price and selection. Quite simply no one has the lens selection of the top two makes - Nikon and Canon.

The camera body should really be the least of your worries. You should be looking at the system as a whole. Camera bodies can be replaced relatively cheaply as things progress - whereas good quality lenses can stay with you for life.

Remember, you're not just buying a camera, you're buying into a system.

If you go for the Fuji S3 pro (prices may drop if there are any still out there) it is based on a modified Nikon F80 body, so you'd be buying into the Nikon system if you go that route.

Phil, yep you are right The fuji Pro3 is based on a Nikon body and uses Nikon lens, I would only be interested in the Pro3 as based on Nikon body, it is said to be a bit slow and a bit clunkey but gives really good colour rendition. Aparantly the new version can take pictures in dark with some sort of new system like an infra red thing, which will be used by police and scientists.

.
The new Nikon D80 got a really good review in a comprehensive test, featuring some of things on Nikon D200, sadly not the metal body though. It seems it gives a better straight direct printing print than the D200 which would be important to me, it also has some sort of system that turns really contrasty unprintable prints into good ones that can be direct printed. It seems to give quite high resolution prints too.

right then

1 Digital SLR's suffer from dirt on the low pass filter (difficult to keep clean) also some suffer worst than others D70/D70s is one of the better ones that keep clean (I use a D200/D2Hs/D2Xs these are/have metal bodys, which i suspect hold a static charge (mirror flipping) and there fore the dust that causes the problems of dirt on the low pass filter) and these camers have to be cleaned at least once every 3 months for them to keep the image nice and crisp!
2 OM1 is the best and can be repaired forever, I own/use it regulary and I don't leave home with out it!
3 digital camers alow you to take heaps of pictures and then edit to the ones you like!
4 Also i like TLR camers too and the digital ones of these also tend to have a low pass dirt probs!

RJR

TRJR,
do you ever do any direct printing with your D200 in J Peg and can it be done without adjustments?
Have you ever noticed edge fringing with it?
If you had the money again, would you buy the D200 again, or another camera instead?
.
Yep the OM1 is a good camera, a metal body and very reliable, just the thing to have in the car for ever without worrying about batteries running down.

ok here goes!

1 Yes and I don't have to do any adjustments, but most of the time i use raw image settings
2 No
3 No

The D2xs is a really good general purpose Pro Camera and its what I use most of the time
The D2Hs is my action/pap camera
The D200 is good cus its smaller (no vert grip)and fits a underwater case!
The Fuji S3Pro is used for portrates/weddings

also the Nikon Range of lens is slighter better to Canon but thats personal taste
as a general rule of thumb allways buy the largest apature lens you can more "light in" the better exposure balance!

RJR

ooooOOOooo one other thing, when buying a digital SLR, think about what your taking pictures of, as the type of camera body to lens is really important, unlike film SLR/lens the format of the sensor affects the aera the sensor uses!


hope that makes sence

THJR,
thanks for your help.
I will be taking pics from rock bands to modern buildings with portraits in between, to be honest, just about everything, including hopefully things like stamps, sweets, etc like I used to do.
The cameras you mentioned perhaps are a little out of my price range at around £3,000+ for body only. The D200 at around £1,100 body only maybe a more sensible proposition as it will give fairly high quaily results with a farly tough metal body. Although I have sold pics of rock bands a long time ago, the chances of me getting a full time job taking pics is fairly low, however I do like the idea of maybe selling a few again, The D200 hopefully would last until I retire, if lucky, yes there will be newer cameras out in mean time, but that will always happen. The D200 body is only around £400 dearer than new D80 so isn't too much more if I buy it.
I was thinking of investing a bit more in a lens with image stabilisation, not a fantastically long zoom, but a medium one, as can't seem to hold a camera as steady as used to.

"hope that makes sence "

Er, no it didn't

Ok! then may i suggest a Fuji S3Pro with a good fast lens! there really good at dealing with High contrast lighting systems such as concerts, also use a fast CF card or Microdrive, and also they use AA batteries too, so its easy to replace the power too!

RJR

> Have you ever noticed edge fringing with it?

Chromatic aberration or edge fringing is a property of the lens, not the camera body.