Seaton is a small resort on the south-east coast of Devon in the south-west of England. Although the area has been continuously inhabited for 6,000 years, it has the air of a town that has never quite woken from a centuries-old slumber. It is a pleasant enough place for a day trip, with a long and attractive pebble beach backed with colourful beach huts, and is a reasonably good place to use as a base to explore east Devon and west Dorset.

A Brief But Long History

The final¹ stretch of the Fosse Way, which in Roman times linked Lincoln to Exeter, passes within a few miles of modern Seaton, and there is an important Roman archaeological site at Honeyditches on the edge of the town². However, they were not the first inhabitants; the area had been farmed since 4000BC, and the Romans simply moved in to take advantage of the good land and easy fishing. The discovery of fine mosaics in one of the buildings shows that it was probably quite an important stop on the Fosse Way.

After the Romans, the Saxons moved onto the good farming land, living on both sides of the river Axe, which flows into the sea on the eastern side of Seaton. They called it Fleote, or 'creek', and the village grew with a very Devonshire slowness. In 1005, the town was granted its Charter by Edward the Confessor, and in the mid-14th Century the town was renamed Sea Tun, or 'sea farm'. By this time the local salt marshes were becoming important - so much so that a hundred years later, Henry VIII was able to sell the town to John Frye, a landowner from nearby Membury. Brine was simply boiled in shallow pans until the water content evaporated, leaving just the salt. The salt trade soon declined, such as it was, largely because of a new tax on the industry in the 16th Century. The town became a sleepy fishing village once again.

In the early 19th Century, a quay was built, and with the coming of the railway³ there was modest growth, but Seaton had neither the picturesque qualities nor the sandy beaches of other resorts. Once again, Seaton had almost made it - but not quite. Seaton's biggest claim to historical fame remains its concrete bridge and house at the mouth of the Axe, the oldest structures of their kind in England; both were built around 1877.

However, this odd avoidance of prosperity has left Seaton in a unique position among east Devon seaside towns. It is large enough to have decent facilities, yet avoids much of the tourism that can affect life in other resorts, leading to a relatively large population boom. Only 2,500 people lived in Seaton in 1970; now it is reckoned there are nearer 6,500. Most jobs are in retail or the very seasonal tourist industry.

What To Do There

Well, there's the long pebble beach, the concrete bridge and the long, if unspectacular, promenade. There are wonderful birdwatching opportunities around the river Axe, and in the summer the Axe Valley Heritage Museum is worth a visit. You could also take a boat trip to explore the Jurassic Coast or for a spot of sea fishing. More energetic folk could take a walk to Lyme Regis on the coast path, or go the other way less strenuously to the attractive village of Beer. Let's be honest, though; you go to Seaton for a bit of quiet.

In fact, the town's only really genuine tourist attraction is Seaton Tramway, which has been running the route of the old railway line since 1970. The brightly-coloured trams do make a very tempting sight as they run up and down the river Axe and into the town centre. If you're in the area, it is well worth a visit - 99,999 other people will take a trip in the trams every year; why not be the hundred thousandth?

The best of Seaton's pubs are around the sea front (the Fisherman's Inn and the Hook and Parrot) and around Fore Street in the town centre (the Kings Arms and the Famous George. The latter is ideally positioned if you've waiting for the bus and have a few minutes to kill!).

How To Get There

From Exeter, bus 52A makes the trip to Seaton in about an hour and a half, or from the east it takes about two hours on the X53 from Weymouth. Seaton has no railway station. For more information, see the Traveline South West website.

By road, turn off the A35 Honiton to Bridport road at the A358 near Axminster, which is handily signposted 'Seaton'.