On fair Lochranza streamed the early day,
Thin wreaths of cottage smoke are upward curl'd
From the lone hamlet, which her inland bay
And circling mountains sever from world.
- The Lord of the Isle by Sir Walter Scott

The Isle of Arran is a small island off the West Coast of Scotland, roughly on the same latitude as Glasgow. About the size of the Isle of Man with a fraction of the population, (about 4,500 in the winter), Arran is undoubtedly a beautiful island. There are three roads on Arran. The coastal road is the main road, running for 56 miles and following the coast, hence the name. This is a good distance for cyclists to achieve in a day and many make the trip to circumnavigate the island. They are quite easy to spot. Their bright red faces and looks of anguish as they contemplate the seriously hilly parts of the route are a sight to behold. The curious thing seems to be that, if you travel clockwise around the island, it's uphill all the way. However, if you travel anti-clockwise, the hills are even steeper. The traditional thing to do on Arran is to slow down while passing them, wind down your window and call out 'Only another 30 miles to go'. You will usually be rewarded with a cheery wave.

The two other roads criss-cross the Island. The String Road from Brodick to Blackwaterfoot takes in some seriously beautiful views as you pass Goatfell, the highest point on the Island at 2,866 feet. Views from the top of Goatfell are spectacular. Every year there is a charity race up the mountain from Brodick and it is a very pleasant walk. It is also the site of the Island's only recorded murder. In 1889 John Laurie murdered Edwin Rose and stole his boots. After his conviction, the local police returned to the murder scene and buried the boots 'To set his soul to rest'. However, his ghost is rumoured to wander Glen Sannox, often enquiring of hikers, 'Huv ye seen ma boots?'

The other road on the Island is the Ross Road from Lamlash to, well, nowhere in particular really, although it rejoins the coast road in the South near Dippen. This road passes the farmhouse where the First Minister of Scotland, Jack McConnell, was born and brought up.

Arran's Hazardous Roads

It should be pointed out that the Council employs a novel method of maintaining the roads on Arran. Potholes, which are numerous and deep, are filled in with Rice Krispies painted black. This looks good for about ten minutes and gives the road workers a feeling of joy and contentment. They are often to be seen photographing the results and congratulating each other. Of course, the Rice Krispies dissolve very quickly thus giving the road workers something to do the next day. This has the useful side effect of giving the Council something on which to spend local tax revenue.

You are on the right island aren't you?

If you go to Arran looking for hand-knitted sweaters, you're on the wrong island. You're thinking of the Aran Islands, which are a group of three islands off the west coast of Ireland (a large island full of Irishmen).

So, to Lochranza

Lochranza is a small village on the northernmost point of Arran. Arriving on the island by ferry at Brodick, (as most do), turn right and follow the road through the villages of Corrie and Sannox and keep going through the increasingly mountainous terrain until you come to Lochranza. Stop the car, get off your bike or rest your feet and listen.

To silence.

It's a curious thing

The most beautiful air of peace and tranquillity to be found anywhere exists in Lochranza. The curious thing is, you can see things moving, like the little red Postman Pat van climbing the hill half a mile away, but you don't hear it.

Smart Locals

Lochranza, meaning 'Loch of the Seals,' is a small village huddled on the steep hills surrounding the sea loch. The locals live on the north banks of the Loch whilst the south bank is predominantly made up of holiday homes. When people visit the island in the summer and fall in love with Lochranza, the locals are quite happy to sell them houses on the south side. What the visitor doesn't realise is, because the hills are so steep, the houses on the south side only receive around 15 hours direct sunshine a year.

Would you like to play a round, deer?

The village boasts every amenity necessary to life. There is a distillery and a golf course. Watch out for the wild deer on the course, they haven't quite grasped the significance of 'Fore' yet. Of course, you may not have realised the significance of 'Fore' yet either, or why the guy in the silly trousers is waving a stick at you. When a golfer hits the little white ball with his golf stick, it is customary to shout 'Fore' to warn anyone in range that a small white, pain-inducing object is hurtling towards them at great speed. If you are walking on a golf course and you hear a cry of 'Fore', hit the ground quickly and hide. Do not turn around. If you turn around it is calculated that there is a greater than 90% chance of the little white ball hitting you on the forehead. This will hurt. Deer however, have evolved a natural defence against golf balls. The males grow large golf sticks on their heads with which they can bat away golf balls. The females tend to get hit on the forehead a lot.

Additional extras include a post office/grocer/craft shop/newspaper delivery service. There is also a youth hostel, a geology field centre, another craft shop, a mobile butcher, a tearoom which is sometimes open and there is also a pub/hotel with a wonderful handcrafted sign made by one of the h2g2 Researchers. There is a caravan and campsite which boasts excellent showers, lashings of hot water, electrical hook-ups and laundry facilities and is within easy staggering distance of the distillery.

No village is complete without a castle

There is a semi-ruined castle at the head of the loch. The original castle dates back to around 1260. Robert the Bruce is said to have visited in around 1306, landing there from Ireland on his way to ultimately defeating the English at Bannockburn in 1314. It passed through the hands of many titled lords and was gradually changed into a hunting lodge. It has not been occupied since the 18th Century. If you want to look around inside the castle, go to the post office and ask Jim for the keys. There is nothing better than skipping your way over singing 'I've got the keys to the castle'. Please remember to return the keys.

See where history was made, quite literally

Crossing over to the north side of the Loch, a coastal walk to the Cock of Arran can be found. This can be quite muddy, so wear appropriate footwear. Pay attention to the geology around you. James Hutton (1726 - 1797) formulated the Uniformitarian theory of geology following his observations here. 'Hutton's Unconformity' showed that the earth was much older than previously thought. His work here influenced modern scientific thinking as much as Darwin. Geology students from around the world visit each year to see this unusual feature.

Other Locals

While walking, watch out for the wildlife. Wild deer and sheep roam freely. The more notable birds include two pairs of nesting Golden Eagles which are truly magnificent. There are lots of buzzards (known as tourist eagles to the locals).

Unfortunately, bare skin can be exposed to sheep ticks. These sit on tall stalks of grass waiting to attach themselves to passers by. Although small at first, they become gorged with your blood. The best way to remove them is by gripping them firmly between thumb and forefinger and twisting them anticlockwise until they pull free. Do not twist clockwise as parts of the tick will break off under the skin and will become infected. Alternatively, go and see Malcolm, the vet in Brodick, and he'll give you a little plastic thingy to help lift them off.

Midges are particularly fierce around Lochranza in the late summer. Attracted by the carbon dioxide in your breath, only the females bite but they do so in prodigious numbers. Citronella is a fairly effective repellent. So is staying clear of Scotland in the summer. The area was known for a very friendly sea otter which used to bask by the side of the road between Lochranza and Catacol, but the BBC killed it¹.

Getting out

There is a small ferry terminal in Lochranza where you can continue your journey up the West Coast of Scotland. Check timetables as there is a very limited service in the winter. The ferry is run by a company called Caledonian Macbrayne, or Cal Mac. Rumour has it that Cal Mac were running ferries before there were islands, so be reassured that they know the way.

But, afore ye go...

Before leaving Lochranza, take a stroll along the road to the north of the village towards Catacol. Here you will find the Sailor's Grave. John McLean was emigrating to Canada but was taken ill shortly after he boarded the ship. The crew suspected he had the plague so he was put ashore near Lochranza. He wandered into the village looking for help, but the locals turned him away. He turned round and headed for Catacol but was turned away there too. Starving and very ill, he died by the road. The villagers buried him where they found him and carved a headstone for him that can still be seen today. His ghost is said to haunt the area, constantly walking between the two villages asking for help.