Palenque (pronounced 'Pah-LEN-kay') is the ruin of one of the largest and most prosperous Mayan cities, and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. It is also among the best presented, most touristed, best preserved and most dramatically located pre-Colombian sites. The name is a modern Spanish word meaning 'fortification'; the Mayans likely called their nation B'aakal, and the city itself Lakam Ha. It is located in the Chiapas province of Mexico, about halfway between the capital and the easternmost limits of the nation, placing it at the western end of the Maya area of influence. Geographically, it occupies high ground overlooking an extensive flat plain (although nowadays it is difficult to make this out through the dense forest that covers the site).

History

The site was already abandoned by the time Europeans first reached the Americas, but translation of inscribed lists of kings and queens of the city have helped archaeologists to piece together its history. According to these lists, the city was inhabited from around 430 AD to at least 800 AD, although it appears to have gone into a sharp decline after its sackings by Calakmul in 599¹ and again in 611.

Pacal the Great, ruling from 615 to 683 (if the records are to be believed) restored the city to greatness, including a building spree which gave us most of the ruins we know today. Palenque seems to have formed an alliance with Tikal at this time - a sensible move given that Tikal and Calakmul were the two rival Mayan 'superpowers' of the age.

Three of Pacal's sons became lord (Ajaw) of Palenque after he died², and for a while the golden age continued. However, by 711 the relatively minor city of Tonina was able to invade and sack Palenque - the 'golden age' had lasted less than a century. Although the monarchy was briefly restored, Palenque remained at war (and, judging from the record, didn't do too well). Combined with the disaster that overtook the whole Mayan Classic Civilisation around 800 AD, this was too much for the citizens of Palenque and the city was effectively abandoned. Unlike many other Mayan sites, Palenque was not restored during the Post-Classic revival, and was overgrown and abandoned by the time the Spanish arrived.

List of Rulers

There are several lists of the rulers of Palenque. The most complete is that carved on the tomb of K'inich Kan Bahlam. By combining these lists, archaeologists have produced a list of rulers of Palenque. There are gaps in this list, which may represent incompleteness in our knowledge or may represent interregnums.

The first ruler on the list is universally regarded as legendary. Muwaan Mat is said to have ruled for 795 years, starting in 3120 BC. The next two are not so clear cut; Uk'ix Chan reigned for 26 years from 967 BC and a third unnamed ruler is mentioned in 252 BC. Although their lifespans are human, these rulers are regarded as mythic due to their very early dates. The remainder of the list appears to be complete and consistent, and so is regarded as describing real individuals.

The Ruins

Nowadays, the ruins are some of the best preserved and most scenic in Mexico, and easily accessible from the modern town of the same name. They are grouped around a central clearing with manicured lawns. The palace complex in the centre is surrounded by step pyramids facing inwards. Each has a staircase on the front side, leading up to a sanctuary on the flat top. These were originally topped by vertical lattice-like decorations called roof combs, a few of which still survive looking rather like a Flintstones version of a radar array. These are reminiscent of those at Tikal, and probably reflect Tikal's influence on Palenque.

The interiors of the pyramids feature elaborate bas-relief carvings of rulers, gods and mythological symbols. One of these, the Mayan world-tree, bears a remarkable resemblance to a Christian cross, leading to one group of pyramids being dubbed the Group of the Cross (consisting of the Temple of the Cross, Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Foliated Cross and Temple XIV). There is also a North Group, a little way away from the main plaza, and a Temple of the Jaguar on a wooded trail in the opposite direction.

The oldest pyramid on the site is the Temple of the Inscriptions, probably dating back to 625. This housed the tomb of Pacal the Great. When it was discovered in 1952 at the end of a tunnel concealed under a stone slab, this was the richest architectural discovery ever made in the Americas (although a Moche tomb has since surpassed it). It should be noted that unlike Egyptian culture, Mayans did not generally use their pyramids as tombs, so this temple is highly unusual in having been built for that purpose. It is not, however, the only grave in Palenque - Alberto Ruz Lhuller, who discovered Pakal's tomb, is buried opposite.

The palace complex is fronted by a broad staircase, leading up a three metre platform to a cramped network of rooms, inscribed walls and corbelled corridors. These would once have been hung with tapestries. Its most distinctive feature is The Observatory, a square tower four stories tall which, like the similarly named structure at Chichen Itza, may or may not have been used for astronomical observations. It also features some of the best carvings on the site, of figures likely to be the rulers and royals of the city. A small stream, the Rio Otulum, runs across the grounds alongside the temple, requiring a stone bridge at one point (another unusual feature among Mayan ruins, whose water was primarily drawn from underground rivers).

The city was once one of the most extensive and densely populated in the Americas. The presently visible ruins amount to perhaps a quarter of the ancient ceremonial centre, and much of the suburban area remains unexcavated. It can be difficult to tell overgrown pyramids from natural mounds, and the wooden homes of the workers are now visible only via satellite imaging.