The Tulip, sometimes referred to as 'Tulipa' has approximately 100 species and are in the family called 'Liliaceae' (Lilly family).
They are bulbous plants which grow from 10-70 cm (4-27 in) depending on species.

Originally the tulip was a wild flower until it was found and cultivated in about 1000 AD in Central Asia. In the 1600's the tulip bulbs were considered to be very valuable especially to botanists who created drawings of bulbous plants, so valuable in fact, some of the artists sold their homes and possessions to pay for the bulbs to grow themselves, so they were able to create drawings to sell.

Tulips have been hybridized over the years and we see new varieties out in shops almost every growing season. There are reds, yellows, purples, blues and lots of other different colours available to buy, brightening up any border, pot or open space. There are also various types available which grow to different sizes and shapes to every taste. Tulips are very pretty and if varieties are picked carefully, they can flower right up to early summer, according to weather conditions. There are varieties which flower early to mid spring, late spring to early summer.

The rule was 'tulips must be planted in autumn before the first frosts'. This rule is not one the specialist growers like as things have changed, especially weather conditions. The secret is that tulips do not like to planted too early, they can be planted even in January but usually the best time is up to the end of November, mainly because tulips need cold weather in order to root.

The best depth to plant tulips is 10 cm (4 in) deep and the same measurements apart. Remember to water if the ground is dry, especially if planting in pots.

The first major problem is slugs because they love the fleshy green leaves on tulips, especially the young juicy growth.

Please see RHS's Slug Page for ways to battle against slugs eating your precious tulip plants.

There are lots of other problems your tulips can get, here are the main ones:

Tulip grey bulb rot: The bulbs do not appear to shoot from the ground, if they do, the shoots are very distorted which soon die off and disappear. The bulbs will rot off leaving the roots only visible when digging around looking for the bulb.
It is caused by a type of fungus called 'Rhizoctonia tuliparum' which can also attack other types of bulbs other than tulips.
Unfortunately there is not any cure for this disease expect digging up and removing any infected bulbs and foliage, burning the infected plants. Do not plant any type of bulbs in the same spot for at least five years.

Tulip Fire: The foliage is withered and distorted usually with a scorched appearance followed by a fuzzy coloured mould. The plants will fail to grow and flourish. Occasionally they may flower, and the petals will show bleached spots. The plant will very likely collapse. The bulbs may show signs of a fungus disease and could rot in the ground.
It is caused by a type of fungus called 'Botrytis tulipae'. It is spread through the air or by water splash. The disease can over winter in the soil.
If you think that you have this disease then it is best not to plant tulips for at least 3 years in the affected area. After 3 years, only plant tulips every other year to avoid the same problem starting again.
It is best to plant late and lift the bulbs after each year of planting, dusting with an anti-fungal powder if you wish to store them.

Squirrels can be a major problem with tulip bulbs as they either chew the leaves, buds and flowers or dig the bulbs up before they have had a chance to grow. If it becomes a serious problem then it might be worth considering covering them with netting or cotton, using a smell repellent available from garden centres will also help to deter them.

Failure to flower could be a cause of the leaves being removed too soon the year before, bad drainage or not enough sun. Also, if the bulbs are very old then this will be another reason for not flowering very good. It is recommended that bulbs are replaced with new ones every 3 years, the life span varies from type to species.

When your tulips have finished flowering, most people are tempted to cut off the foliage because it looks a mess, this is the worst thing you can do especially if you plan to lift and store them for the following year. If you cut off the foliage too early it causes the tulip to cut off its energy supply resulting in a bad display the next season. It is best to leave the foliage to whither and yellow, allowing the tulip to absorb enough energy in its bulb to do its best the following season.

It might be an idea to divide your older bulbs, which gives you new baby bulbs, re-energizing the older ones. The ideal time to divide them is just after they flower, unless they are not doing very good in which the process can be started earlier, spring time.
The process is fairly straight forward. Dig up a bulb which has finished blooming, preferably an oldish bulb. There should be smaller daughter bulbs around its base. If it hasn't or is split, then it is best to discard it.
Take off the smaller bulbs and either replant the 'daughter and daddy bulbs' or store them in a dry cool place, until the next season. If re-planting straight away, plant in a well drained area, 6-8 in deep, an area which doesn't get much water or rain in the summer time. It is best to mulch the area with leaf mould about 3 inches thick. The daughter bulbs should flower after approximately two years of being in the ground and maturing.

If possible, it is usually best to leave tulip bulbs in the ground all year round if they are healthy and the area is not needed for other plantings. If this is not possible and you would like to store them then this is a good option if you do it correctly.
They will need to be placed in a cool, dry place in a box or something which is not going to sweat like plastic. Check them about once a month and remove any that are split or not looking healthy.

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