Watling Street. A Journey Through Roman Britain
Created | Updated Feb 26, 2015
This is a journey along Watling Street, the most important Roman road in Great Britain. The road runs from east to west across Roman Britain.
Travellers on the road were served by a system of way stations or mansios. Also the privately owned Cauponae were established along the routes, providing basic accommodation, rather like hostels. The upper classes would use the better tabernae; these began as houses on the roadside offering a service similar to the modern ‘bed and breakfast’ system. Travellers would also need sufficient money to pay the various tolls along the way. Watling Street starts in Dover (Portus Dubris) or Richborough (Rutupiae), from where it travels north east to London (Londinium), via St Albans (Verulamium), High Cross (Letocetum) to Wroxeter (Virconium), where it crosses the river Severn, in Roman times a major barrier to east/west travel1. After the river crossing, the road makes a sharp southern turn, necessary to complete the journey south to Leintwardine (Bravonium). As it continues south Watling Street bcomes Stone Street. And continues to Usk (Burrium) and Caerleon (Iscia Silurum) a major seaport on the river Usk with access to the river Severn and the sea. This would suggest trade goods entered Roman Britain from both ends of this major thoroughfare and were distributed throughout Britain, or on to the rest of the Roman world.
The Start of Watling Street
Watling Street has two starting points; one at Dover (Portus Dubris) and the other at Richborough (Rutupiae); both are in Kent, sited on the coast and were originally both forts and ports.
Richborough (Rutupiae)
The original landing site of the 43 AD, invasion by Claudius and important enough for a Triumphal Arch to be erected at the fort to commemorate the landing. The Arch has long since gone but the foundations have been located, a full description has survived including the inscription.
Or the alternative starting point and the Roman naval base;
Dover (Portus Dubris)
The younger fort (but not by much) and clearly the better placed as the town flourished and developed into a prosperous town and a major port.
The journey described in this Entry would have been possible as described in about 100 to 200 AD. You will see 28 settlements, from the grand to the rural, some of which just exist to serve the garrison of the fort near where they are built, and give shelter to the travellers on Watling Street. The journey on foot would take a minimum of about 12 days, walking 8 hours a day, 32 to 33 miles being an average day's travel. It is interesting to note that the longest distance between any points on the journey is the 33 miles between Kenchester (Magnis) and Brecon Gaer, (Y Gaer) which is 33 miles, a day's travel. As wagons and carts could be as slow as 8 miles a day, travellers could use the system of mansios, cauponae and tabernae. All distances given are starting from Dover; if starting from Richborough simply deduct 3 miles from any total mileage figure given.
A Key To The Condition Of The Towns
The condition of the towns and sites today. Shown as (Rutupiae (4) in subheading.
1 = Nothing now visible or built over.
2 = Building platforms, mounds and crop marks.
3 = Some ruins are visible above ground.
4 = Visible site with museum support.
5 = A major site and tourist attraction.
Richborough - Rutupiae (4) - 'The Muddy Estuary'
The town of Richborough was founded on the original landing site of the 43 AD, invasion by Claudius and was important enough for a triumphal arch to be erected at the town to commemorate the landing and the capitulation of the local British tribal leaders. Entry and passing through the arch signified formal entry into 'Roman Britain'. The inscription on the arch read as follows:
For Tiberius Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus, son of Drusus, High Priest, holding tribunician power for the eleventh time, Consul for the fifth time, hailed Imperator in the field twenty-two times, Censor, Father of his country.
The Senate and the People of Rome have dedicated this because he accepted the surrender of eleven British tribal leaders, subdued without any losses, the first to reduce barbarian tribes across the Ocean to the rule of the Roman people.
Richborough was a large settlement around the fort and the town grew into a competitor of Dover. A Mansio was set up in the town. A civic centre, an amphitheatre, baths and temples were built in the town. The town had well paved streets. The private homes were of timber and stone and mosaic floors and painted plasterwor were found, all now ruined. The town was famous throughout the Empire for the quality of its oyster beds.
Roads off Watling Street at this location:
Journey on to the South to the Worth Temple 3 miles, and on to Dover (Portus Dubris) 11 miles.
On Watling Street continue west to Canterbury (Durobrivae) 11 miles.
Dover - Portus Dubris (5) - 'Port on the Dubris River'
Dover was founded as the port closest to the Empire at the mouth of the river Dour. The first garrison was the fleet Classis Britannica, appointed to patrol the waters around Britain and guard the channel. The port was marked by a Pharos2 on each side of the harbour mouth. The town had a basilica, forum, temples and baths. The homes were of timber and stone and mosaic floors and painted plasterwork were not uncommon. The town also had a very busy trading area.
Roads off Watling Street at this location:
To the North Richborough (Rutupiae)
On Watling Street continue west to Canterbury (Durovernum Cantiacorum) 14 miles.
Total so far 0 miles.
Canterbury - Durovernum Cantiacorum (4) - 'The walled town near the alder swamp'
Canterbury was first founded as a fort in 43 AD. The town was then given the status of civitas3 in 80 AD. It was at this point the town's expansion
began. With good connections to the Empire, especially Gaul, trade flourished. A basilica, forum, temple and baths were built followed by a temple complex. The homes were of timber and stone and mosaic floors were not uncommon. There was a wide verity of shops and bronze making, brick, tile and pottery production were established in the town.
Roads off Watling Street at this minor road junction:
To the North Reculver (Regulbium)
To the east Richborough (Rutupiae)
To the south Lympne (Portus Lemanis)
On Watling Street continue west to Ospringe/Faversham (Durolevum) 11 miles.
Total so far 14 miles.
Ospringe/Faversham - Durolevum / Dorolvo (3) - 'A stronghold by the clear stream'
A small settlement founded to the south of Watling Street and built as a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and faced with a ditch. It was a settlement of timber-framed housing and a few trade buildings and shops, with mainly paved streets. The town had some impressive stone buildings that were possibly temples. There was a trade in iron in the town from a local mine at Brenley. From here the road travels through some of the richest farmland in Britain; either side of Watling Street a farm or villa can be found about every mile or so, including some rich and important estates.
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue west to Rochester (Durobrivis) 17 miles.
Total so far 25 miles.
Rochester - Durobrivis (2) - 'The walled town with a bridge'
Rochester is sited at the first suitable inland point where a bridge could be built, clear of the floodplain and with solid banks on either side of the river Medway. The Latin name of the town Durobrivae may means 'the walled town with a bridge' or 'fort with or near a bridge' confirming the town had a bridge crossing from the beginning of the Roman period. The Mansio for the town was sited to the northern side of Watling Street in a hamlet known as Seddingbourne 'Hamlet beside the Creek' (Sittingbourne today).
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue west to Springhead (Vagniacis) 9 miles.
Total so far 42 miles.
Springhead - Vagniacis (2) - 'A place of marshes'
An important settlement and a major religious centre. The town was the site of a pool and springs dedicated to the deity Vagniacis. The pool was enclosed by a walled sanctuary with ten or more temples surrounding it. Of the five main temples two were built with a square floor plan and three had a rectangular plan. They were all built alongside Watling Street. There was a local pottery industry near the town and the settlement was of stone and timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings, with paved streets inns and bathhouses. The town also had a small port on the Ebbsfleet river. The landmark on this part of the trip is the villa estate at Lullingstone. Set in the landscape with many smaller farms and villas the road passes to the north of the estate that was started in 75 AD, on the banks of the river Darneth.
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue west to Crayford (Noviomagus) 7 miles.
Total so far 51 miles.
Crayford - Noviomagus (Noviomago) (1) - 'The new town of the Cantiaci'
Crayford was a trading settlement built alongside Watling Street. The settlement was of timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings, with mainly paved streets.
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue west to London (Londinium) 12 miles,
Total so far 58 miles.
London - Londinium (5) - 'The town of Lugh'
London was first a fort founded in 43 AD, at a suitable point on river Thames where a bridge could be built using the islands in the river. Protected by substantial walls and a legionary fort, Londinium had mainly stone housing and with many fine stone municipal buildings, including a governor’s palace, theatres and temples and the town had mainly paved streets. The town achieved the status of provincial capital in 190 AD.
Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:
To the North west Lincoln (Lindum)
To the North east Chelmsford (Caesaromagus), Colchester (Camulodunum), Baylim House (Combretovium) and Castor St Edmunds (Venta Icenorum)
To the south Lympne (Portus Lemanis) and Chichester (Noviomagus)
On Watling Street leaving the city by the Aldersgate, continue north west to Brockley Hill (Sulloniacis) 22 miles.
Total so far 70 miles.
Brockley Hill - Sulloniacis (1) - 'The Sulh stream'
A very small trading settlement built alongside Watling Street the settlement developed around 45 AD, around a legionary fort.
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue north west to St Albans (Verulamium) 8 miles.
Total so far 92 miles.
St Albans - Verulamium (5) - 'The town above the marsh'
Built alongside the river Ver, this town4 was founded in 40 AD, and originally a fort the town was given the status of Municipium in 49 AD. The town was enclosed by a wall and ditch and had a fine forum, a basilica and a theatre. The streets were paved or cobbled.
From here on this minor road junction you could journey on to;
To the west Colchester (Camulodunum)
On Watling Street continue north west to Dunstable (Durocobrivis) 9 miles.
Total so far 100 miles.
Dunstable - Durocobrivis (1) - 'The hill market'
Dunstable was founded in 46 AD, as a way station at a point where Watling Street crossed the Icknield Way. This grew into a small market town and was named Durocobrivis, a small settlement of timber-framed housing and buildings, and mainly paved streets.
Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:
To the north west Baldock (On the Icknield Way)
To the north Godmanchester (Dunovigutum)
To the south Marlborough (Canelio) and North Church (On the Icknield Way)
On Watling Street continue north west to Dropshort (Magiovnium) 12 miles.
Total so far 109 miles.
Dropshort/Little Brickhill - (Magiovinto (1) - 'Great river plain'
Dropshott was a military base founded in 49 AD, as a Roman fort at a point where Watling Street crossed the River Ouzel. This grew into a small oval settlement defended by earth ramparts.
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue north west to Towcaster (Lactodurum) 17 miles.
Total so far 121 miles.
Towcester - Lactodurum (3) - 'The camp on the Tove river'
Towcester was first founded in 45 AD, on a bend of the river Tove, built on the south side of the river's bank and marking a point where a ford allows Watling Street a crossing of the Tove. A defended5 settlement of timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets. On the way to the next town as you travel through the country side dotted with farms you will pass the largest in the area Whitehall Villa and its farm about 8 miles out of town.
Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:
To the south Akerman Street to Alchester and Dorchester.
On Watling Street continue north west to Whiton Lodge (Bannavena) 12 miles.
Total so far 138 miles, this is approximately the half way point on the Watling Street part of the journey.
Whilton Lodge - Bannaventa (2) - 'A Gap in the hills'
Possibly founded before the arrival of the Romans in Britain, and built as a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and faced with a ditch. Built alongside Watling Street in a prosperous agricultural area. The important villa estate of Lockleys is located 10 miles to the north of this point of Watling Street.6. A settlement of timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets.
Roads off Watling Street at this minor road junction:
To the west Northampton
On Watling Street continue north west to Caves Inn (Tripontium) 11 miles.
Total so far 150 miles.
Caves Inn - Tripontium (2) - 'The town with three bridges'
Possibly founded by the Romans in 54 AD, and built as a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and faced with a ditch. The settlement gets its name from the three nearby bridges.
Built to defend a crossing of the Avon, Tripontium was defended to the south east by the river Avon. The Dow bridge spanned the river (the first bridge).
There was a stream to the south east flowing into the Avon. This was spanned by another bridge into the town (the second bridge).
The river Swift guards the north western approaches to the town and access to Tripontium is gained via a road bridge (the third bridge). A settlement of timber-framed housing and a few stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets.
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue north west to High Cross (Venonis) 7 miles.
Total so far 161 miles.
High Cross - Venonis (2) - 'Place of poison plants'
Founded before the arrival of the Romans in Britain, and built as a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and faced with a ditch. Built at the junction of Watling Street and the Fosse Way. A settlement of timber-framed housing and a few trade buildings and mainly paved streets.
The crossroads with the Fosse Way Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:
To the North Leicester (Ratae), East Stoke (Adronten) and Lincoln (Lindum).
To the south Cirencester (Corinium) and Illchester (Lindinis).
On Watling Street continue north west to Mancetter (Mandvessedum) 10 miles.
Total so far 168 miles. this is approximately the half way point of the journey to Cerleon (Iscia Silurum).
- The Battle of Watling Street.
The Roman Governor, Gaius Suetonius Paulinus and a force of 10,000 men defeated Boudicca and her army of 80,000 in this area in 60 AD. The scattered traces of the burial mounds of the 80,000 Iceni who were killed, could still be seen by the traveller at this time.
Mancetter - Mandvessedum (2) - 'The place of war chariots'
Mancetter was at first a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and faced with a ditch. Built at the junction of Watling Street and the river Anker. A prosperous settlement of timber framed and stone housing and stone built municipal buildings. trade buildings and warehouses and paved streets. The town was the centre for a pottery producing industry that supplied the whole province. There were over 20 pottery kilns sited to the south of the town, and was the home town of the potter Icotasgus, amongst others. There is also evidence of the manufacture and trade of glassware.
Roads off Watling Street at this location:
To the north east Leicester (Ratae)7
On Watling Street continue north west to Wall (Letocetum) 15 miles.
Total so far 178 miles.
Wall - Letoceto (3) - 'The grey woodlands'
Founded in 45 AD , Watling Street passes through this town, from east to west. A settlement defended with an earth and timber ramparts and ditches. The town had with a wide variety of housing, several temples and an amphitheatre, with stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets. There was a junction of Watling Street and Ryknield Street to the east of the town. The town was a major market for trade between the local tries of the Coratani 'from the Leicester area' and the Cornovii 'from the Wroxeter area'.
The crossroads with the Icknield Way. Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:
To the north Manchester (Mancunium) and Derby
To the south Cirencester (Glevum)
On Watling Street continue north west to Water Eaton (Pennocruoio) 14 miles.
Total so far 193 miles.
Water Eaton - Pennocuoio (1) - 'Town on the end of a ridge'
Founded at first as a way station and situated on an important road junction near the river Penk, Watling Street passes through this town, from east to west. A defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and triple ditches. A settlement with a wide variety of housing, with some municipal buildings, and paved streets. There was a junction of Watling Street and the Icknield Way to the east of the town; two military roads also joined Watling Street here.
The crossroads with the Icknield Way. Roads off Watling Street at this important road junction:
To the north west Whitchurch (Mediolan)
To the south Droitwich (Salinae), Gloucester (Glevum) and Bath (Aquae Sulis)
On Watling Street continue north west to Redhill (Uxacona) 12 miles.
Total so far 207 miles.
Redhill - Uxacona (1) - 'The Red Hill'
Founded as a fort and signal station and situated on the highest part of Watling Street. A defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and ditches.
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue north west to Wroxeter (Virconium) 11 miles.
Total so far 219 miles.
Wroxeter - Virconium (5) - 'The town of Vinco'
First founded about 58 AD, as a fort then a walled town with a port with access to the sea via the upper reaches of the river Server. A town with a wide variety of quality housing, several temples and a theatre, with stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets. The city produced and traded pottery salt8 and iron.
Roads off Watling Street at this minor road junction:
To the north Whitchurch (Mediolan)
On Watling Street continue south to The Stratford Bridge Camp 19 miles.
Total so far 230 miles.
The Stratford Bridge Camp - A Roman fort
A Roman fort and garrison. Located on the junction of the road known as the Hen Ffordd9 and the route south to Forden Gaer and Greensford and Brecon Roman road junction. There was basic accommodation for the traveller and a small basic trading settlement catering to military traffic in the area.
Roads off Watling Street at this minor road junction:
To the north Whitchurch (Mediolan)
The junction with the Hen Ffordd on its route south to Brecon Gaer - Y Gaer.
On Watling Street continue south to Leintwardine (Bravonium) 6 miles.
Total so far 249 miles.
Leintwardine - Bravonium (2) - 'The town of the Quern'
Leintwardine was founded in 70 AD, initially as a vicus, a settlement that developed adjacent to an official establishment a fort, established to profit from government activity. The settlement was sited north of the Teme river. A fortified town with a wide variety of housing, and some municipal buildings and temples to the god Jupiter and the Divine Emperors, a trading centre with traders shops and paved streets. With a Roman fort and garrison.
Not located on any known Roman road junction:
On Watling Street continue south to Kenchester (Magnis) 21 miles.
Total so far 255 miles.
Kenchester - Magnis (2) - 'The Place of Rocks'
Kenchester was from the first a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and faced with a ditch. Built at the terminus of Watling Street and marking the start of Stone Street. South into Wales and to the coast. A prosperous settlement of timber framed and stone housing and paved streets, stone built municipal buildings including baths. trade buildings shops workshops and warehouses.
From here on this major road terminus you could journey on to:
On Stone Street continue south to Brecon Gaer, (Y Gaer ) 33 miles.
Total so far 276 miles.
Stone Street To Cerleon
Brecon Gaer - Cicucium (2) - 'The camp'
Known as the fiveways road junction it was the hub of network of minor rotes serving this part of Wales.
A defended settlement near the river Honddu, with a wide variety of housing, a temple and a trading centre, with stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets. Facilities for the traveller were provided.
On Stone Street continue south to The Fort at Pen-Y-Gaer 11 miles.
Total so far 309 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 33 miles on Stone Street.
The Roman Fort at Pen-Y-Gaer - A Roman fort
On Stone Street continue south to The Fort at Abergavenny 9 miles.
Total so far 320 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 44 miles on Stone Street.
The Roman fort at Abergavenny - A Roman fort
On Stone Street continue south to Usk (Burrium) 10 miles.
Total so far 329 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 53 miles on Stone Street.
Usk - Burrium (3) - 'The place of Knobs or Hills'
A defended settlement with a wide variety of housing, a busy market and trading centre. There were several temples and an amphitheatre, with good stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets.
On Stone Street continue south to Caerleon (Iscia Silurum) 6 miles.
Total so far 339 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 63 miles on Stone Street.
Caerleon - Iscia Silurum (5) - 'The waterside settlement of the Silures'
Founded as a Roman legionary fortress for the Legio II Augusta from about 75 AD. On the site of an Iron Age hill fort. Called Usk of the Silures, as the Silures were the Celtic tribe of that area. A fairly prosperous town with a temples to Jupiter, Diana and Fortuna with alters found to Mithras and Mercurius. A walled town with a wide variety of housing, several temples and an amphitheatre, with stone municipal buildings, and mainly paved streets.
The total journey was 345 miles, 276 miles on Watling Street and 69 miles on Stone Street.
Notes on Roman Roads
A Roman mile is 1000 paces and a milestone was set up to mark each mile. Each milestone had a dedication to the Emperor of the day.
At the high of the expansion of the Empire, roads were built at the rate of 1 kilometre every day.
The Roman surveying tool the 'groma' or 'surveyor's cross' could not be used to survey round corners. It was a line of sight tool that could only be used to plot stright lines as in roads, or in 90 degree right angles as used in laying out towns.
Thus Roman roads are straight or cornered in a series of straight sections.
Colonia
Municipium
Civitas capitals.4One of the three largest in Roman Britain. The capital of Prince Togodumnus in 40 AD.5 Timber ramparts supported by banks of earth and surrounded by ditches.6'A Gap in the hills', that was later used by the builders of a canal, a railway and the M1. It is now called the Watford Gap.7There are three names all Roman all sourced: Ratae, Rate Corion Eltauori or Ratae Corieltavorum most maps seem to favour plain Ratae, but if you are trying to find it on a map keep this in mind.8Produced in the nearby Droitwich area.9'Hen Ffordd' - is the Welsh for 'old road' or 'old way'.
