h2g2 The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy: Earth Edition

Good Article. I spent 15 yrs. in professional theatre, made numerous corsets, fitted many different body shapes. Your description of construction and style is quite close to the methods that I was taught and utilized. Different constructions flattered different parts of the upper body. Period design also became a factor in the way I constructed corsets. One thing though- I rarely used spiral bones. Historically, were they ever used? I would think not. Stays were originally made from real bones. The 18th century didn't have "spiral material" to use in the bust area to give more freedom of movement. (correct me if I'm wrong) Women's fashions were designed to restrict movement, not to enhance it. If you go back to the 14th century, Queen Elizabeth must have felt she was walking with a pole up her back and front. Imagine how many whale bones she must have had in her bodices!

I more or less figured out how to make them myself, since there are very few proper resources. Now I use a 6-panel bodice pattern with bits taken off here and there.
I only know of one place in the UK to get bones and busks from (spent ages looking), and they do spiral and flat steels. Otherwise it's plastic bones (ugh) or Rigilene, both of which are fine in their place but not for corsetry. I use spirals except around the laces. They weren't invented until fairly recently (in clothing history terms, anyway...) so whalebone was used. Which is still sort of available, now... if you're willing to pay. (Which I wouldn't be.) I've heard differing opinions about how good it is, although it's supposed to be quite flexible similar to spirals. (I'm happy with spirals tho'.)

Plastic bones? Ditto- Ugh. I've never even heard of them. In Canada, metal, surfaced enamelled, seem to be the preference. Whale bones (or any other natural bone materials) are'nt used here.(At least to my knowledge) It'ss a justifiable animal welfare thing. Whales in particular, are a protected species here. On another note, Is'nt it ineresting how boned bodices have come back in fashion! The male oriented, restrictive bodice is back. This fashion statement dateing back to the 1500s through to the early 19th century ( with a few liberative blips along the way) is worming it's way back into the male driven view of what the perfect female figure should look like. Boned bodices DO reproduce this Male fantasy. And like sheep, A large percentage of women try to adapt themselves to this ideal. My 18 yr. old, 5'10, 110lb. model, daughter is a perfect example!

Enamelled metal is what I use for the flat bones. I wouldn't use whalebone for that reason- no need anymore, just like there's no need to use real fur.
I would rejoice at the return of the waist- women in catalogues etc. are severely lacking in them, which I find strange. I wouldn't say go to extremes, but there has to be some definition. Apparently men can't help it tho', at least according to studies on what is the most attractive waist-hip ratio.

I spent several years putting my knee into actors backs while laceing them up- at the same time hearing " My God my breasts are getting reformed , my waistline is shrinking , and may I breath now!? Just imagine haveing to do this every morning, afternoon and night! My 18 yr, old daughter envisioned herself wearing a ckorseted bodice with a full gathered skirt which she saw in one of my period costume reference books, to her Prom. My reply? It would look great on you but do you want to dance the night fantastic? If so, Forget it! She ended up wearing a tight fitting 1940's crepe dress without restrictions. Bearing in mind, she has a model's figure, she still realized that a boned bodice isn't what it's cracked up to be.

Oh, I love 'em... don't have any trouble breathing, or anything. I managed to walk 4 miles or so in one once, with no ill effects, s'pose you just have to learn to breathe right.

That's a good overview of corset construction, although there are of course many other ways to construct corsets.