It is not too late to prune your fruit bushes and trees, if you do them now it will help towards a juicy and tasty crop for 2008.

Most fruit trees and bushes can be pruned now, with the exception of Plums and Cherries, which cannot be pruned in the wintertime because of a disease called 'Silver Leaf': a fungal spore problem entering into the tree via a cut or broken branch, causing the tree to eventually die. It affects more susceptible trees like Plums and Cherries especially when the disease is most active, usually between September and May.

It is best to pick a dry, mild day to do your pruning, avoiding cold frosty days, when it is likely you would do more harm than good.

Young apples and pears:

Young apple and pear trees which are less than 12 months in the ground need a different type of pruning to the mature type.

The bush type needs the main leader stems (main stems coming off the main trunk) pruned above 3 or 4 strong side shoots.

The side-shoots that grow off the main leader stems (see above) need to be cut back by about one-third, remembering always to cut above a nice healthy bud. This will ensure a good shape for the future growth.

When the tree has been in the ground for a further 12 months, it is best to reduce the main branches by half, and the side shoots to 4 or 5 nice healthy buds. Also, it would be a good time to remove any unwanted growth which spoils the shape of the tree.

It is always important when making a cut to angle it slightly.

Young pyramid-trained apples and pears that have been planted into the ground less than 12 months old from purchase, firstly need the main trunk leader tipped, to ensure that it produces more main leader stems (Main leader stems are called 'Laterals' on this type). This will ensure a more even shape.

Prune the laterals to approximately 12.5cm (5inches), remembering to cut above a nice healthy bud.

The following year, prune the laterals as before, but this time prune the side shoots to three buds from the main trunk to ensure continued healthy growth.

When planted less than 12 months old, prune the lateral stems (see above) to three or four buds from the main trunk, leaving the main trunk leader untouched.

Again, less than 12 months in the ground, prune the main trunk leader to a nice healthy bud.

After 12 months, tip the main trunk leader and also the laterals to create a good espalier shape.

There are two types of apple tree, which are either 'spur-bearers' (fruit borne along branches) or 'tip-bearers' (fruit borne on branch tips).

Most pear trees are spur-bearers, pear and apple spur-bearer trees require the lateral sStems to be shortened to four to six buds from the main trunk.

Tip-bearers require the lateral Stems to also be shortened.

Remove any growth which is congesting the tree, always ensuring there are branches to take over, to fill the gap left.

Tip-prune as described above to help the lateral stems produce a good amount of tidy growth.

It is best to prune in accordance to spur-bearers as described above. Also make sure you tip the main leaders to encourage bushy growth.

Black Currants:

In the first 12 months after planting, black currants will produce some nice strong shoots. Leave these, as they should produce some good fruit the next summer. However, if you find there are some weak or diseased shoots, these can be cut down to 2.5cm (1 inch) above soil level.

With established black currant bushes, they need at least a third of the old wood removed each year, cutting out the branches that have produced poor growth and spoil the shape of the bush.

Red Currants And Gooseberries

In the first 12 months of planting, the leader of each branch needs to be cut by half to a healthy bud. It is important to do this so it produces an open-shaped bush on a short, sturdy stem.
Reduce any crossing, crowded branches in the centre to about one bud from the main stem. It is important to carry out this procedure each wintertime for at least the next three years, to ensure a good framework has developed.

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