Few things in life are as interesting as watching a stream of water pass you by in the middle of a moonlit night. Add some music to the atmosphere and it revs up the mind and the body. For such an experience, a quick trip to Varanasi (previously known as Benares and also known as Kashi), located in the state of Uttar Pradesh, India should suffice.

Varanasi is part of Indian mythology and has been mentioned in the Indian epics of Ramayana and Mahabhrata. Its name comes from the two tributaries of the Ganges – Varuna, which flows to the north and Asi that flows to the south of the city. Varanasi is the holiest pilgrimage spot for thousands of Hindus as many come to have a dip in the Ganges to cleanse their souls.

Legend has it as the home of Lord Shiva, the destroyer, where his fiery light broke through the earth to reach the heavens.

Getting there

Varanasi, the eternal city, where life and death are both a celebration, where traditions are revered and modernity is worshipped, where saints are still mystical and thieves abundant, where a visit is not a travel itinerary but a lifelong experience. Nature carved out Varanasi along the banks of the river Ganges at precisely the only place along its course where the river flows from the South to the North (in Hindu mythology towards the abode of the Gods and hence the sanctity of the place). These days it can be reached conveniently by most of the Indian national airlines, the nearest airport is Babatpur (about 22km away from Varanasi), or by trains (to the Varanasi or Mughal Sarai railway stations) or road seven days a week. For the more adventurous, a seven-day boat ride from Allahabad to Varanasi is recommended.

The City beautiful

Varanasi as a city that cannot be loved in a day. The roads are narrow, travelling is most efficient by carts pulled by men, drains overflow to depths of up to two feet during monsoons and a lot of innocent but scary looking people can be seen all around. But digging a little deeper unearths little pots of gold and the true charm of the ancient city.

A short visit might not be enough to unravel all the charms of the city because one will definitely miss the alluring sights that each season has to offer. For example, the celebrations witnessed in the city during Dev Deepavali and Holi on either side of the winters should be compelling enough reasons to tempt one for a longer stay. Nimmish is a delicacy to be savoured in the winter months whereas the summer brings with it scorching heat and a chance to escape to the waterfalls of which Rajdari, Devdari and Lakhanyadari are the most famous ones. As the stay becomes longer, the joys of life can be appreciated and the eternity of the cosmos begins to fill up the subconscious. It is the enigma of the awe-inspiring Ghats¹, the serenity of the calm and flowing water, the power of the mighty river Ganges that transports the mind over matter. In one word, the city is alive.

A Historical Perspective

Legend has it that the city of Varanasi has been a centre of learning and civilisation for over 2000 years. In fact, it was at Sarnath (a stone's throw away from the city) that Lord Buddha first preached his message of enlightenment almost 25 centuries ago. Later the city became a great Hindu centre. It was looted a number of times by Muslim invaders from the 11th century onwards and these destructive visits climaxed with that of the Mughal emperor, Aurangazeb, who destroyed almost all the temples and converted the most famous one into a mosque. Parts of a restored temple standing next to the mosque under peaceful co-existence can still be seen. The city is the biggest learning centre of Sanskrit, the most scientific language in the world and has also become a symbol of the Hindu renaissance. Tulsi Das, the famous poet, wrote the Hindi version of the Ramayana known as the Ram Charit Manas on the Tulsi Ghat.

Things to Do

The city offers a unique blend of ancient and medieval architecture and lifestyle. An exploration through the 'gullies' or narrow roads is highly recommended for you never know what part of history you might stumble upon.

For a transcendental and mystical experience, 'ganja'² on the ghats (with the pandas³) is recommended. Make sure to watch the 'aarti'⁴ ceremony at dusk from a boat in the river.

Another example of history that one stumbles across is Rani Lakshmibai's ⁵ place of birth near the Hanuman Ghat. Not too many people know about it and it is kept off the tourist map.

Across the Ganges is the Ramnagar Fort where one can admire the antique car collection of the Maharajah. This 17th century fort-palace was the home of the Maharajah of Varanasi and has a temple and a museum within its grounds.

A major shrine in Varanasi is the Viswanath Temple devoted to Shiva, which is said to be at the site of the pillar of light. The original temple was destroyed by Aurangzeb, a Mughal emperor, but was later restored in the 18th century by Rani Ahilyabai of Indore.

It is advisable not to go in for a swim in the river during the monsoon season as the Ganges swells to dangerous levels and rises as high as the ghats.

For the less adventurous traveller, a calm boat ride on the river Ganges promises a unique experience or else something about the city is missed. If one gets tired of the number of temples in the city, shopping for Banarasi silk and handicrafts should lift the spirits. One could go on and on about the city, but its best experienced when explored personally.