Journal Entries
aahhhhhhhh
Posted May 29, 2003
No thoughts for the journal today. Work has sucked out all the power of my brain. Barely able to spell correctly. Brain gone. So sad.
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Latest reply: May 29, 2003
haiku #77
Posted May 28, 2003
beyond flames or stars
these sour reveries play
fish or boys play here
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Latest reply: May 28, 2003
haiku #37
Posted May 26, 2003
my beautiful joys
are as hopeful as dancers
clouds dance beyond waves
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Latest reply: May 26, 2003
copper trellis
Posted May 26, 2003
Materials:
60/40 leaded solder and matching flux (from a stained
glass shop)
Flexible copper refrigerator tubing - from 3/16" to
3/4"
Rigid copper pipe - selection of 1/2" and 3/4"
Copper plumbing fittings to fit 1/2" and 3/4" pipe
Copper wire
Copper plumber's tape
Copper pipe-strapping
Tools
Pipe cutter
Plumber's soldering torch
Pliers
Vise-grips
Vise
Fireproof Kevlar soldering cloth
Eye protection
Gloves
String
Steps:
Flexible three-quarter inch copper tubing
Bend the flexible three-quarter inch tubing to fit the
drawing
Drawing Room
Draw a trellis design on paper. Note the rough
dimensions and sizes of tubing you intend to use. I
suggest sturdy 3/4" tubing for the outside frame and
1/2" everywhere else. You'll need fittings ('T''s and
'unions') at every joint. When you've figured out the
design details, transfer the drawing full-scale to a
plywood tabletop (or sketch it out on the driveway
with chalk).
Cut it to fit with a pipe cutter
Pipe Dreams
Begin cutting copper tubing to match your drawing,
starting with flexible 3/4" tubing for the top arch.
(Double arches are pure hell so unless you have the
patience of granite, avoid them.)
Accurately measure lengths of coiled tubing with a
flexible dressmaker's measuring tape, or string. (Lay
the string out on your full scale drawing, then mark
the correct length on the string. Then lay the string
hand over hand alongside the coiled tubing until you
reach your mark, then cut the copper tubing at the
mark.
Use a smaller pipe to gently straighten the ends so
that the fittings slip on
Use a rubber mallet to take the waves out
Cut all the pieces to fit the drawing
Fit to be Tried
Try putting fittings in place. They'll bind if there's
any curve left in the ends of the flexible tubing.
Straighten the ends by inserting a smaller pipe into
the larger one, levering the end straight. Be very
careful not to distort the circular pipe opening,
because once you geek it up, you can never get it
round again to take a fitting. If you have trouble,
file the tubing down using a bastard file.
TIP: If the flexible tubing isn't lying flat on the
tabletop, tap along its length with a rubber mallet.
Just don't crush the ends!
When you have everything fitting together happily, get
ready to flux and solder.
Steel wool will quickly clean the tubing, removing
manufacturer's info
Use screws to help hold the pieces in position for
soldering
Use flux and leaded solder from a stained glass shop
Solder to Lean On
Soldering is easier than you could possibly expect.
Simply brush the flux on the inside of the fittings
and the outsides of the pipe at each joint. Then push
the pieces tightly together. Spark up your torch and
aim the blue tip of the inner flame steadily at the
fitting.
Brush the solder on the outside of the tubing
Brush the flux on the inside of the fittings
Push the pieces firmly together
You can tell when the joint is hot enough to accept
solder by touching a length of solder to the metal on
the far side of the joint. If the joint is hot enough,
solder will melt instantly and flow between the metal
surfaces wherever flux has been applied.
Place a plumber's fire proof mat under the joint to be
soldered
Use a plumber's torch to heat the joint
When it's hot enough, the solder melts and flows into
the joint
Cool the joint with a spray of water
Completed frame
To avoid setting fire to the table (or driveway), use
a fireproof plumber's cloth under the joint being
soldered. Also, wear eye protection and keep a spray
bottle of water nearby to cool the hot metal quickly.
C- shape detail
S- shape detail
Placement of S
Placement of C
Twisted Imagination
Using smaller gauges (3/16" to ¼") of flexible tubing,
make the decorative 'C' and 'S' shapes to form the
lacy design inside the frame.
Use sash cord to help determine the length of tubing
to cut
Mark the length on the sash cord
Transfer the length to the tubing
Pinch the end of the tubing in a vise and then form
the shape with your fingers
Form the shapes first with a piece of sash cord. Then
use the rope mock-up to determine the length of pipe
to cut. Clamp one end of the cut tubing in a bench
vise, working curves into the copper with your
fingers.
TIP: Bending copper repeatedly can make it brittle.
Loosen it up again by heating it with your torch and
letting it cool off.
Place all the shapes
Make fasteners out of plumbers strapping
Or plumber's tape
Lay the decorative curls inside the frame and secure
them to each other by wrapping the contacting points
with rounds of copper wire. Secure the wired units to
the outer frame with copper plumber's tape or copper
strapping.
To solder - Clamp the pieces together
Flux from the outside
Heat the metal thoroughly before applying the solder
Flux and clamp the overlapping ends of the copper
strapping with Vise-Grip pliers, then solder.
Slide the trellis over half inch re-bar set in ground
To create a free-standing trellis, pound two
three-foot pieces of re-bar halfway into the ground
and slip the bottom openings of the trellis frame over
them. Stand back and admire. If you want it to turn
green quickly, spray on a coat of household ammonia
followed by pickling vinegar. If you don't want it to
tarnish at all, clear-coat the entire trellis with
spray-on clear acrylic.
Discuss this Journal entry [1]
Latest reply: May 26, 2003
copper trellis
Posted May 26, 2003
Materials:
60/40 leaded solder and matching flux (from a stained
glass shop)
Flexible copper refrigerator tubing - from 3/16" to
3/4"
Rigid copper pipe - selection of 1/2" and 3/4"
Copper plumbing fittings to fit 1/2" and 3/4" pipe
Copper wire
Copper plumber's tape
Copper pipe-strapping
Tools
Pipe cutter
Plumber's soldering torch
Pliers
Vise-grips
Vise
Fireproof Kevlar soldering cloth
Eye protection
Gloves
String
Steps:
Flexible three-quarter inch copper tubing
Bend the flexible three-quarter inch tubing to fit the
drawing
Drawing Room
Draw a trellis design on paper. Note the rough
dimensions and sizes of tubing you intend to use. I
suggest sturdy 3/4" tubing for the outside frame and
1/2" everywhere else. You'll need fittings ('T''s and
'unions') at every joint. When you've figured out the
design details, transfer the drawing full-scale to a
plywood tabletop (or sketch it out on the driveway
with chalk).
Cut it to fit with a pipe cutter
Pipe Dreams
Begin cutting copper tubing to match your drawing,
starting with flexible 3/4" tubing for the top arch.
(Double arches are pure hell so unless you have the
patience of granite, avoid them.)
Accurately measure lengths of coiled tubing with a
flexible dressmaker's measuring tape, or string. (Lay
the string out on your full scale drawing, then mark
the correct length on the string. Then lay the string
hand over hand alongside the coiled tubing until you
reach your mark, then cut the copper tubing at the
mark.
Use a smaller pipe to gently straighten the ends so
that the fittings slip on
Use a rubber mallet to take the waves out
Cut all the pieces to fit the drawing
Fit to be Tried
Try putting fittings in place. They'll bind if there's
any curve left in the ends of the flexible tubing.
Straighten the ends by inserting a smaller pipe into
the larger one, levering the end straight. Be very
careful not to distort the circular pipe opening,
because once you geek it up, you can never get it
round again to take a fitting. If you have trouble,
file the tubing down using a bastard file.
TIP: If the flexible tubing isn't lying flat on the
tabletop, tap along its length with a rubber mallet.
Just don't crush the ends!
When you have everything fitting together happily, get
ready to flux and solder.
Steel wool will quickly clean the tubing, removing
manufacturer's info
Use screws to help hold the pieces in position for
soldering
Use flux and leaded solder from a stained glass shop
Solder to Lean On
Soldering is easier than you could possibly expect.
Simply brush the flux on the inside of the fittings
and the outsides of the pipe at each joint. Then push
the pieces tightly together. Spark up your torch and
aim the blue tip of the inner flame steadily at the
fitting.
Brush the solder on the outside of the tubing
Brush the flux on the inside of the fittings
Push the pieces firmly together
You can tell when the joint is hot enough to accept
solder by touching a length of solder to the metal on
the far side of the joint. If the joint is hot enough,
solder will melt instantly and flow between the metal
surfaces wherever flux has been applied.
Place a plumber's fire proof mat under the joint to be
soldered
Use a plumber's torch to heat the joint
When it's hot enough, the solder melts and flows into
the joint
Cool the joint with a spray of water
Completed frame
To avoid setting fire to the table (or driveway), use
a fireproof plumber's cloth under the joint being
soldered. Also, wear eye protection and keep a spray
bottle of water nearby to cool the hot metal quickly.
C- shape detail
S- shape detail
Placement of S
Placement of C
Twisted Imagination
Using smaller gauges (3/16" to ¼") of flexible tubing,
make the decorative 'C' and 'S' shapes to form the
lacy design inside the frame.
Use sash cord to help determine the length of tubing
to cut
Mark the length on the sash cord
Transfer the length to the tubing
Pinch the end of the tubing in a vise and then form
the shape with your fingers
Form the shapes first with a piece of sash cord. Then
use the rope mock-up to determine the length of pipe
to cut. Clamp one end of the cut tubing in a bench
vise, working curves into the copper with your
fingers.
TIP: Bending copper repeatedly can make it brittle.
Loosen it up again by heating it with your torch and
letting it cool off.
Place all the shapes
Make fasteners out of plumbers strapping
Or plumber's tape
Lay the decorative curls inside the frame and secure
them to each other by wrapping the contacting points
with rounds of copper wire. Secure the wired units to
the outer frame with copper plumber's tape or copper
strapping.
To solder - Clamp the pieces together
Flux from the outside
Heat the metal thoroughly before applying the solder
Flux and clamp the overlapping ends of the copper
strapping with Vise-Grip pliers, then solder.
Slide the trellis over half inch re-bar set in ground
To create a free-standing trellis, pound two
three-foot pieces of re-bar halfway into the ground
and slip the bottom openings of the trellis frame over
them. Stand back and admire. If you want it to turn
green quickly, spray on a coat of household ammonia
followed by pickling vinegar. If you don't want it to
tarnish at all, clear-coat the entire trellis with
spray-on clear acrylic.
Discuss this Journal entry [1]
Latest reply: May 26, 2003
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