Every year one of the best jazz festivals in Europe takes place under the stars in the hills behind Nice. It is all a long way from the pebbly water's edge with its over-brown bathers, bling filled water front and people convinced that they are now leading the high life of the French Riviera. By a long way, I mean a steep climb that takes about 30 minutes on hoofing it in the warm, Mediterranean, early evening sun.

It is a big venue with a couple of stages, lots of eating spots and a great atmosphere. As is typical of southern Europe, the adults don't loathe children and the children reciprocate by being moderately well behaved – running around and generally having a good time being small.

Over the week the music is a mixture of styles: blues, cool jazz, a bit of main stream and classic pop, trad jazz and some edgy experimentalism. Some big names appear and very little is not worth at least half an ear – although I find 70's Berkeley (California) electronic machines that go ping every now and then, while two bearded introverted middle aged men on the stage smile at each other at their cleverness, dull.

Yet one does not go to a French jazz festival on the Cote d'Azure for the wonderful music, lovely weather, beautiful clothes or the relaxed crowds. One goes for the food.

As you would expect, the festival provides a civilised bistro as well as numerous outlets from which you can pick up fast and picnic food. The bistro is the pick, although it is more expensive, with chairs, table service, wine and fabulous food. Actually this might be one of those times where the quality of the food is subsumed into the overall quality of the experience.

Having said that, festivals like this draw a fairly discerning crowd. Despite the lack of sophistication on the water front, the hills behind Nice attract a population with serious money and taste. Once you sit down (there a plenty of tables, but it does eventually fill up) you have a good view over stage 1, with only some trees in the way. Sound-wise, it is fine.

We started with a bottle of something cold and pink. The other options are cold and white, or cool and red. I presume that beer was possible but it wasn't an option we even explored. The menu was broad although it didn't offer much to vegetarians. We ate three courses – why wouldn't you? My mains of lamb chops were perfect with plenty of rosemary giving a dry flinty flavour to offset the lamb. Veggies were up to the mark but overly plentiful. Given we were eating outdoors in a crowd with fairy lights over head, the fact that the food was perfectly cooked and hot just made the whole experience more memorable.

There is a fly in the ointment. Those thinking that the Cimiez Gardens may be the centre of their next French Riviera holiday will be disappointed to discover that, after continuous lobbying by the local council, the festival has moved the main town square nearer the water. This may be good for commerce, but I fear that it will be the end of
this most wonderful dining experience.

Getting There: Follow the Romans and head for the cool of
the hills.

Who should eat there: Lovers, dreamers and me.

Price: £35 each with a bottle or two to share.

Quality: It's French, it's warm, it's outdoors and the
food's quite nice too.

Would I go Back: Well yes...

Phoenician Trader

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