How to (or not to) travel in Dhaka.
Created | Updated Oct 20, 2006
Cruising through Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, is not a task for the lighthearted. It offers opportunities for danger, excitement, boredom, not to mention a test for the limits of your patience and/or bladder. The streets are a jumble of vehicles, all packed together. The traffic on busy days is rather like a jigsaw puzzle, i.e. you would fit your vehicle in any space that fits. A recent attempt by the government to improve the roads and rules have helped matters, but only just.
Rickshaws
To start with, the most common (and cheapest) form of transport is the rickshaw. It’s basically a try-cycle made of beaten tin, pulled by one man with a seat for two at the back. A retractable hood is placed at the back for unstable weather conditions. In the event of rain the puller, upon request, would hand over a waterproof piece of canvas which could be used to keep ones feet dry. There is no suspension or springs whatsoever and every pothole, bumps or speed breakers on the road will be felt, implicitly. The fare is set beforehand and a little haggling is necessary. One must know exactly where one is heading and how far he/she would have to go because the pullers can and will overcharge. The pullers believe that road rules do not apply to them and swerve across whenever the fancy takes them, without thought for safety or caution. However, in a city consisting of more alleys than roads, they are the perfect solution for short and middle distances.
Tuk tuks, Baby taxis, Mishuks, CNGs, Helicopters(??)
Tuk tuks are very common in Asia. More so in Bangladesh, as they are the principal means of crossing long distances within the city limits. Tuk tuks are the three wheeled, automated taxis which run on fuel. However, due to various economical problems, the tuk tuks in this country have evolved, along with acquiring some unusual names. The first tuk tuks in the country were black in color with a yellow canvas topping. They ran on petrol and would charge accordingly. The unusual bit is their name. Due to their rather reduced stature, they were called ‘Baby taxis’. The way to go about calling them would be standing on the side of the road and shouting in a loud clear voice “Oi Baby!” Riding them was certainly not boring. If the constant teeth jarring or the loud noise of the engine weren’t enough, the driver’s wild swerves and turns would certainly keep one amused for the entire duration of the journey. They were unsafe in the way anyone would assume a three-wheeled vehicle to be. Extremely unstable.
The second model is a more fuel-efficient version. They are painted green and have spoked wheels. Like their predecessor, they do not have any meters and price haggling is necessary. They are called Mishuks and derive their name from a children’s mascot somewhat akin to Bambi. For an unknown reason this model was built slightly smaller so on top of the regular jerking one would be sitting cramped into a space not meant for humans. They can still be seen around Dhaka and other cities in Bangladesh.
Due to recent advancements in technology the huge supply of natural gas found under Bangladesh was utilized for a more economically efficient role. It became the more common form of fuel. Petrol engines were modified to be powered by Converted Natural Gas (CNG). Hence the Baby taxis were banned from the city limits and the new tuk tuks, which ran on gas, were procured. These are more efficient, spacious and safe, having been built with a center of gravity. They are also painted green, and are called CNGs (after their fuel source). Each one has a meter built in as standard, although the drivers would attempt to argue for a price slightly higher than what the meter shows.
A fourth version of the tuk tuks can be seen nowadays. They mostly operate outside Dhaka on the highways. They are built to carry more than 6 or 7 passengers and are made locally. Consisting of a small motor that is used to run boats, they are called… Helicopters (?). The reason for the name is unknown, given to it by the people who employ it.
Taxis
Taxis in Dhaka come in three different colors and classes. There is the yellow cab, which is the most expensive and is outfitted with air conditioning. These are usually Toyota sedans or station wagons. Being owned by private firms, they can be hailed on the road or through the phones. The second class of taxis is painted blue. They do not have air conditioning and charge slightly higher than the third class of taxis.
The third class of taxis are the most notorious of the group. They are painted black. They consist solely of the economy hatchbacks produced by Maruti, an Indian firm. Considered to be a menace on the streets, passengers should be careful when employing them. The cars are, for obscure reasons, stripped of all basic modifications, and carries only a meter and some threadbare seats. The dashboard is always patched in places and the whole look of the car suggests “Warning! Unsafe”. The outside of the cars is no less distressing. The paint is chipped, some have bumpers missing and if at least one wheel is not a mismatched spare then it probably isn’t a black cab at all. The drivers only know the basics of driving which is to start from one destination and stop at another. Everything in between is just fictional and can safely be ignored. They cause most of the auto accidents on the street.
Oddly enough the blue and black cabs are also referred to as CNGs after their fuel sources.
Trucks and buses
To ferry goods and merchandise into the capital, enormous trucks are used. This in itself is not a unique thing until one realizes exactly what the Bangladeshi trucks are. They are yellow, hulking, roaring masses of metal. The work that goes to building them is slipshod at best and they have an alarming unfinished look about them. In order to prevent road congestion, trucks bearing imported loads are only allowed into the city after midnight. This is the time to be truly wary. Driving through the roads at this time of the night can prove fatal, especially since the trucks have poor headlights and the drivers have even poorer eyesights.
Sometimes to carry loads of building materials, the trucks are allowed into the city during daylight. The sight of the driver trying to maneuver through the narrow alleys and side streets is something worth seeing.
Bangladesh has yet to attain highways capable of accommodating the 18-wheelers that are predominant in foreign highways. A few enterprising firms have attempted to employ a few of these nevertheless. They have not fared well.
Buses come into a whole other category in Dhaka. The intercity services have been started fairly recently. Being allowed in the daylight hours, they dominate the streets. The divers assume the “My vehicles bigger than yours” form of arrogance and many a smaller vehicles can be seen with dents and scratches due to this very reason.
Driving
Now comes the ultimate experience. Driving in Dhaka. As mentioned earlier the streets are usually grid locked. If you do not fit your vehicle in the nearest available space, some enterprising CNG, rickshaw or car would nose in and manage to keep you from moving… ever. The next vehicle would be a hairs breadth behind and an untimely application of the brakes would result in a domino effect. Pedestrians are probably the worst enemy any driver may expect. For one thing they assume cars would stop for them, even if said car is going at a 100 plus (km). The only time the police would pull you over is if they are running short on bribes. Beware of larger vehicles. They do not care much for vehicles smaller than them. Beware of smaller vehicles. They flit back and forth across the lanes to suit their own moods. In other words beware of anything with wheels and legs on the streets.
Another oddity on the streets of Dhaka is the police. Generally potbellied, foul mouthed and impatient, Dhaka’s finest is one of the most corrupt forces on earth. Bribes are easily exchanged and crooks let off the hook. If the police catch you without a driver’s license then the only thing to be worried about is whether there is enough cash in your wallet to pay them off.
Rickshaws
To start with, the most common (and cheapest) form of transport is the rickshaw. It’s basically a try-cycle made of beaten tin, pulled by one man with a seat for two at the back. A retractable hood is placed at the back for unstable weather conditions. In the event of rain the puller, upon request, would hand over a waterproof piece of canvas which could be used to keep ones feet dry. There is no suspension or springs whatsoever and every pothole, bumps or speed breakers on the road will be felt, implicitly. The fare is set beforehand and a little haggling is necessary. One must know exactly where one is heading and how far he/she would have to go because the pullers can and will overcharge. The pullers believe that road rules do not apply to them and swerve across whenever the fancy takes them, without thought for safety or caution. However, in a city consisting of more alleys than roads, they are the perfect solution for short and middle distances.
Tuk tuks, Baby taxis, Mishuks, CNGs, Helicopters(??)
Tuk tuks are very common in Asia. More so in Bangladesh, as they are the principal means of crossing long distances within the city limits. Tuk tuks are the three wheeled, automated taxis which run on fuel. However, due to various economical problems, the tuk tuks in this country have evolved, along with acquiring some unusual names. The first tuk tuks in the country were black in color with a yellow canvas topping. They ran on petrol and would charge accordingly. The unusual bit is their name. Due to their rather reduced stature, they were called ‘Baby taxis’. The way to go about calling them would be standing on the side of the road and shouting in a loud clear voice “Oi Baby!” Riding them was certainly not boring. If the constant teeth jarring or the loud noise of the engine weren’t enough, the driver’s wild swerves and turns would certainly keep one amused for the entire duration of the journey. They were unsafe in the way anyone would assume a three-wheeled vehicle to be. Extremely unstable.
The second model is a more fuel-efficient version. They are painted green and have spoked wheels. Like their predecessor, they do not have any meters and price haggling is necessary. They are called Mishuks and derive their name from a children’s mascot somewhat akin to Bambi. For an unknown reason this model was built slightly smaller so on top of the regular jerking one would be sitting cramped into a space not meant for humans. They can still be seen around Dhaka and other cities in Bangladesh.
Due to recent advancements in technology the huge supply of natural gas found under Bangladesh was utilized for a more economically efficient role. It became the more common form of fuel. Petrol engines were modified to be powered by Converted Natural Gas (CNG). Hence the Baby taxis were banned from the city limits and the new tuk tuks, which ran on gas, were procured. These are more efficient, spacious and safe, having been built with a center of gravity. They are also painted green, and are called CNGs (after their fuel source). Each one has a meter built in as standard, although the drivers would attempt to argue for a price slightly higher than what the meter shows.
A fourth version of the tuk tuks can be seen nowadays. They mostly operate outside Dhaka on the highways. They are built to carry more than 6 or 7 passengers and are made locally. Consisting of a small motor that is used to run boats, they are called… Helicopters (?). The reason for the name is unknown, given to it by the people who employ it.
Taxis
Taxis in Dhaka come in three different colors and classes. There is the yellow cab, which is the most expensive and is outfitted with air conditioning. These are usually Toyota sedans or station wagons. Being owned by private firms, they can be hailed on the road or through the phones. The second class of taxis is painted blue. They do not have air conditioning and charge slightly higher than the third class of taxis.
The third class of taxis are the most notorious of the group. They are painted black. They consist solely of the economy hatchbacks produced by Maruti, an Indian firm. Considered to be a menace on the streets, passengers should be careful when employing them. The cars are, for obscure reasons, stripped of all basic modifications, and carries only a meter and some threadbare seats. The dashboard is always patched in places and the whole look of the car suggests “Warning! Unsafe”. The outside of the cars is no less distressing. The paint is chipped, some have bumpers missing and if at least one wheel is not a mismatched spare then it probably isn’t a black cab at all. The drivers only know the basics of driving which is to start from one destination and stop at another. Everything in between is just fictional and can safely be ignored. They cause most of the auto accidents on the street.
Oddly enough the blue and black cabs are also referred to as CNGs after their fuel sources.
Trucks and buses
To ferry goods and merchandise into the capital, enormous trucks are used. This in itself is not a unique thing until one realizes exactly what the Bangladeshi trucks are. They are yellow, hulking, roaring masses of metal. The work that goes to building them is slipshod at best and they have an alarming unfinished look about them. In order to prevent road congestion, trucks bearing imported loads are only allowed into the city after midnight. This is the time to be truly wary. Driving through the roads at this time of the night can prove fatal, especially since the trucks have poor headlights and the drivers have even poorer eyesights.
Sometimes to carry loads of building materials, the trucks are allowed into the city during daylight. The sight of the driver trying to maneuver through the narrow alleys and side streets is something worth seeing.
Bangladesh has yet to attain highways capable of accommodating the 18-wheelers that are predominant in foreign highways. A few enterprising firms have attempted to employ a few of these nevertheless. They have not fared well.
Buses come into a whole other category in Dhaka. The intercity services have been started fairly recently. Being allowed in the daylight hours, they dominate the streets. The divers assume the “My vehicles bigger than yours” form of arrogance and many a smaller vehicles can be seen with dents and scratches due to this very reason.
Driving
Now comes the ultimate experience. Driving in Dhaka. As mentioned earlier the streets are usually grid locked. If you do not fit your vehicle in the nearest available space, some enterprising CNG, rickshaw or car would nose in and manage to keep you from moving… ever. The next vehicle would be a hairs breadth behind and an untimely application of the brakes would result in a domino effect. Pedestrians are probably the worst enemy any driver may expect. For one thing they assume cars would stop for them, even if said car is going at a 100 plus (km). The only time the police would pull you over is if they are running short on bribes. Beware of larger vehicles. They do not care much for vehicles smaller than them. Beware of smaller vehicles. They flit back and forth across the lanes to suit their own moods. In other words beware of anything with wheels and legs on the streets.
Another oddity on the streets of Dhaka is the police. Generally potbellied, foul mouthed and impatient, Dhaka’s finest is one of the most corrupt forces on earth. Bribes are easily exchanged and crooks let off the hook. If the police catch you without a driver’s license then the only thing to be worried about is whether there is enough cash in your wallet to pay them off.
