Dealing with money is easy in Cambodia. Although the Riel is stable in comparison with many other Asian currencies, the Almighty Dollar is preferred.

At the time I was there, there were about 3,800 riels to the dollar. Bills could be paid in dollars and change would be given in a combination dollars and riels.

It is possible to change travellers cheques and get advances on credit cards at a variety of banks, but it should be remembered that Cambodia has more public holidays than any other country in the world so advance plans should be made.

As far as I could find out, there are no cashpoint (ATM) machines in Cambodia.

For the connected traveller, Phnom Penh is a home from home. Cyber cafes are everywhere (particularly along the tourist heavy Sisowath Quay). Prices are steep at $4 an hour, but if you search, it is possible to find a cut-throat outfit offering access at only $3.99 per hour! Soft drinks, bananas and sweets are thrown in for free. Connections can be difficult so it may be worth travelling with a floppy disk so, if the line goes down, you can cut and paste from your hotmail and try again later.

None of the places I tried had ICQ installed, but some said I could install it. At 5 MB I didn't bother taking the time to download it, but, if you can't be away from your ICQ buddies, bring a copy on CD and try asking around for somewhere to load it.

La Croisette

On Sisowath Quay on the corner of 144 Street. A friendly cafe with smiling service. If you like your omelette prepared the traditional way, with the centre still runny, this is the place.

I returned one evening to try the main courses. Both French and Khmer food are available. I went for the Rice and Chicken (fried rice and crispy fried chicken coated in dry spices served with three different dipping sauces) to go with it I also had the Fish Soup (a fairly bland concoction of a clear soup based around flavours of lemon and chives with two steaks of white fish). The food was simple but well prepared and, at $3 each, quite reasonable.

Rendevous Cafe

On the opposite corner to La Croisette, Rendevous Cafe is another typical waterfront bar/restaurant. Their menu had an impressive selection of sweet and savoury crepes, eggs benedict, toast with anchovies and mozzarella (a kind of breakfast pizza), but I went for the 'Cooked Fat Boy' (two eggs, hash browns, tomatoes, bacon, sausages and mushrooms) not cheap at $5 but the bread was still warm and just what was needed to settle the stomach after a night drinking Tiger beer.

The FCC (Foreign Correspondent's Club Of Cambodia)

The FCC (or FCCC depending on where it is written) can be found at 363 Sisowath Quay, overlooking the river. Although it is a membership club, non members are welcomed. The walls are covered with memorabilia, mainly news photos of the taking of Phnom Penh by the Khmer Rouge which can be a bit off-putting with your meal. The music is certainly eclectic, on my various visits the sounds ranged from jazz, through classical and calypso, with Frank Sinatra seeming to be a favourite.

The FCC is a comfortable, stylish setting with a great view from the balcony.

The menu is varied but not cheap. I had 'The Daily Platter' which consisted of salad, couscous, grilled vegetables, houmous, aubergine dip and pitta bread; washed down with three draught Tiger beers. The service was attentive without being intrusive, a taste of things colonial. While it was all very good and I came away satisfied, it did cost almost $10.

The Garden Bar

Situated on the corner of 148 Street and Sisowath Quay, The Garden Bar provides the standard bar food fare with the emphasis on European such as Greek Salad, Chicken Cordon Bleu or Beef Goulash. Their speciality, however, is the pizza. Freshly made to order and with prices ranging from $4 for a Hawaiian through to the $6 I paid for a Seafood Pizza. It was piled high with fish, shrimp and both squid pieces and whole baby squid. If you are into things fishy I would recommend it.

Another thing to recommend this bar is the fact that they ice the glasses in the freezer, so that your beer will stay colder for longer.

The Garden Bar staff are friendly and chat to customers when custom is slow. If you are looking for a pleasant place to while away the hours, then try here.

Li Lay Restaurant

Although situated some distance from the centre of town, this place is worth the moto fare. It can be found on Kampuchea Krom Boulevard about a hundred and fifty yards past the intersection with Sivutha Boulevard.

When I entered I was immediately struck by the fact that the restaurant was full of Chinese patrons, always a good sign. I was shown to a table and then forgotten for about for ten minutes. This wasn't a good start, although, in the staff's favour, they were very busy.

When I was dealt with, the staff were fast and efficient. I had the Roast Chicken with Chilli (small portion $3) and the Steamed Shrimp with Garlic ($6). The presentation was first class with some of the most delicate carrot roses I have seen, and the shrimp turned out to be two of the biggest Tiger Prawns I've ever had. My beer was kept topped up (although it was only Tiger or Angkor in cans) and the steamed rice just kept on coming.

Each meal is finished of with complementary Papaya (perfectly ripe and just what was needed).

After the initial hiccup with the service I would still recommend this restaurant to anyone looking for traditional Chinese food at its best.

Pavilion 'River 3'

As far as I could see, all of the pavillions were run by the same company, all of the menus, signs etc. were suspiciously similar. I chose River 3 at random.

The pavillions are lined up on the open area along the bank of the river and catch any breath of a cooling breeze coming off of the water. They are basic, not pretending to be more than they are. I particularly liked the sign that said 'Khmer Food portion 7900 Riels. Khmer Food big portion 9900 Riels.' Being a big person I went with the big portion. I had Chinese Noodles with Beef; the noodles were some of the best I've ever tasted, perfectly 'al dente' (or whatever the Khmer equivalent is). None of the waitresses spoke any English except 'beer' and, at a push, 'water'; but with plenty of smiling and hand signals we managed fine.

All in all, if you are just looking for a quick snack, reasonably priced with a great view, try one of the pavillions.

Restaurant Ponlok

Another Sisowath Quay restaurant, to be found about one hundred and fifty yards north of the FCC. A large place with a clinical downstairs, typical of all large soup houses. Upstairs is a more refined restaurant, cool inside but also with a balcony looking out over the river. You will find Khmer cuisine served here with an up market flavour.

The staff were friendly and efficient, handing over a voluminous menu with pictures of most of the dishes. I had the Beef with Cambodian Cheese (a dip redolent of dried fish, cheese, lemon and, I think, groundnut; an acquired taste that signalled the muster to what seemed like all the flies on the Tonlé Sap), I also had Fried Broccoli in Oyster Sauce and Chicken Porridge (a big bowl of clear chicken soup, chicken pieces, mushrooms, spring onions, dried shrimp and rice thick and fluffy from absorbing the soup); steamed rice was provided as and when needed. As usual there were side servings of chopped garlic and sliced hot peppers (be very careful with them!) but here I was also provided with a plate of raw bean sprouts, surprisingly good for refreshing the palette. To finish there was a plate of complementary melon slices and two small, very sweet, bananas.

The total bill for this massive meal, along with two draught Tiger beers, was just over $10. Expensive, but well worth it as I didn't need to eat for the rest of the day.

Chouk Rath Restaurant

Next door to the Golden Angkor Hotel, this restaurant specialises in French cuisine (although there are also Khmer dishes on the menu). I settled for the Green Papaya Au Gratin (served with a bagette of warm bread), followed by the Pepper Steak with Chips (again with a warm bagette).

The food was well prepared, the steak being particularly tender, and not too pricy (starter $3, while the steak was $6). The only drawback was that there were a lot of mosquitoes, so make sure you are either covered up or wearing some sort of repellant.

Greenhouse Restaurant

Also next door to the Golden Angkor Hotel. A relatively basic place that serves a range of Khmer and Chinese dishes. For an evening meal I had Beef Curry and Rice, filling but with just a hint of curry spices.

I also had lunch there one time and went for the Sour Soup with Fish, it is similar to a hot and sour soup without the pepper. The fish was cooked perfectly and complemented nicely by pieces of fresh pineapple. The Greenhouse was also a handy place for breakfast. A Cheese Omelette with Bacon, bread, coffee and a small water only cost $3.80.

For good value meals, with no frills, this is the place.

The Bayon Restaurant

A pleasant restaurant in a courtyard with trees and fairy lights. It was the busiest restaurant I had been in apart from the Li Lay in Phnom Penh. The staff were friendly and the menu varied. Also, the Bayon sees to be one of the few places in Siem Reap that serves Tiger Beer on draught rather than in cans.

The Bayon had the noisiest clock I have ever encountered. It looked like a normal wall clock but at nine o'clock there was loud electronic music, followed by a chime striking and a female voice, presumably saying what the time was. It easily drowned out the background music and the conversation of the diners.

I ordered the Spicy Papaya Salad, (which wasn't quite as spicy as one would find in Thailand) with the Shrimps in Garlic and Pepper (actually four large butterfly prawns) and the Chinese Fried Rice (there were six types of fried rice to chose from). My meal, along with two draught Tiger Beers, was good value at $9.20.

A tip for couples, the garlic comes in whole cloves and plenty of them so couples should either both have garlic or neither!

As most tourists are in Siem Reap to sightsee, restaurants close early. By 9.40 there was only one other patron (actually, only one other table, the staff having cleared up around us). The other customer asked for coffee but was told it was too late, but he could have the bill!

Overall, a pleasant venue with reasonably priced food, but get there early!

The Cambodia Archives

Down My Lane

14.08.00. Front Page

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