Luxembourg airport

Plane delayed by 30 minutes - just enough time for a final sweep of the duty-free shop, to pick up a bottle of Baileys in case Stockholm bar prices lived up to their reputed expensiveness.

Flying over Denmark and Sweden, I almost had my nose pressed against the window in awe at the strange landscape - all forests and water. I began to grow a little concerned about where the airport might be situated.

Having landed safely, I followed Titania's impeccable instructions to the hotel, where I had an hour to wander and get my bearings (and press my nose up against some shop windows) before meeting up with the gang.

5pm - using my handy h2g2 Tshirt as a beacon, I met up with Titania and Alchemilla, with a few children and an octegenarian who spoke only French. We assorted bunch watched an outdoor circus act before having a sandwich in the hotel. Alchemilla disappeared with her kids, and so we remaining 3 embarked on a pub crawl, taking in gin and tonics, tortilla chips and dips, culminating in drinks at a roof top terrasse with stunning views over Stockholm as the sun set. Titania went home, Henriette went to bed, and I went to the piano bar - and realised I'd left my lighter on the roof top place.

After a great breakfast in the hotel, all of us bar Titania, who had family commitments, went to the Vasa museum. This is a really unusual museum housing a 17th century battle galleon which sank on its maiden voyage, and lay preserved on the bed of Stockholm harbour until the 1950s. After lunch of hotdogs by the sparkling water's edge, I caught a tram into the city centre to explore the main shopping street, picking up some Svarowski crystal and salty licorice.

Being rather fond of views from rooftops, I treated myself to a pre-dinner cocktail in the Gondolen, reached by the historic Katarina lift. The waitress recommended vanilla vodka and rhubarb ( Rabarbersvaj), which she translated as 'rhubarb thingy'. A bit of texting and fortuitous meeting on the Tunnelbana saw us all gathered again, and we set out for dinner on the rooftop (where I ate the national speciality of Gravlax with potatoes in dill sauce - delicious). We watched a number of hot air ballons make their stately way over the rooftops in the glorious pinky gold sky - and I managed to retrieve my lighter!

The party dwindled to Titania and myself, and gravitated to the Green Hunter. The doorman started questioning Titania about something - my knowledge of Swedish at this stage extended to counting to 10, so I recognised the word "två", and thought he was asking how many we were. Titania later told me he was asking how many drinks we'd had. When he discovered I was a tourist his attitude changed instantly, and we were ushered in with broad smiles.

Once inside, I marvelled at all these heads of long blond hair being shaken about to cheesy Eurovision hits - and that was just the blokes! The atmosphere was brilliant, and one drink led to several, and we were still there at closing time. Some national anthem started up - being familiar with the practice in certain Northern Ireland establishments of playing 'The Queen' at the end of the night, I politely enquired if this was the Swedish national anthem. No, I was informed, the Soviet one. Which everyone joined in with enthusiastically, before uncomplainingly leaving the bar in search of further entertainment. (Well, some people may have gone home, I suppose...) Titania related how she'd been shocked by the fashion in which London hootooers were encouraged to leave their pub. An abortive attempt to gain entry to a night club led us back to the piano bar, and then off to my room to do some serious damage to the bottle of Baileys. I'm not saying when I got to bed!

Failed to make it to breakfast, but managed to say farewell to Titania, before heading off for a sightseeing tour on a Viking longboat (whose bright idea was this, on a hangover? Oh, I think it might've been mine...) After a glass of mead and a most enjoyble trip, I bid my 'adieus' and 'hej då's to the rest, and then explored the charming old city (Gamla Stan) where I managed to catch the changing of the guard.

The only snag on the way home was my attempt to buy alcohol (who me?) at the airport duty-free - you can't unless you're going outside the EU. I'd hoped to get some Absolut Peppar to make some wicked Sanderson style Bloody Marys. Ah well.

Big big thank yous to Titania for all her efficient organising (and staff discounts), hugs to Alchemilla and family, salut to Henriette.

LuckyStar

with help from Titania

21.08.03 Front Page

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