Nelson, New Zealand
Created | Updated Feb 23, 2009
The city of Nelson is New Zealand's oldest, located at the southern corner of Tasman Bay at the very north of South Island. Receiving its name in honour of Admiral Horatio Nelson1 it is framed by hills overlooking the city centre and dockyards. One of the busiest ports in the southern hemisphere, Nelson is also apparently the geographical 'Centre of New Zealand'2.
History
Te Tau Ihu (northern South Island) has long been considered a 'home' for at least four iwi (tribes): Ngati Koata, Ngati Rarua, Ngati Tama and Te Atiawa. These peoples spread out along the coastline and divided into tribal groups to become native New Zealanders - the Maori.
In early 1841, the New Zealand Company in London planned3 the European settlement of Nelson, intending to steal or wrest the land from the local iwi. By September 1841 only about one third of the planned land was obtained, but the company pushed ahead and three ships sailed from London under the command of Captain Arthur Wakefield aboard the Will Watch. On arrival however, the new Governor of the colony, William Hobson, would not allow the settlers to buy land from the Maori or even decide where to site the colony. Hobson agreed to let the settlers investigate the Tasman Bay area and the site now occupied by Nelson City was chosen as it had the best harbour in the area.
The New Zealand Company then acquired a chunk of land that included parts of Nelson, Waimea, Motueka, Riwaka, and Whakapuaka. This allowed the settlement to begin; the first immigrant ship to arrive was the Fifeshire on 1 February, 18424. Over the next three months more ships arrived and the colony found the town already laid out with streets, some wooden5 houses, tents and rough sheds. Within 18 months the New Zealand Company had sent out 18 ships with 1,052 men, 872 women and 1,384 children6.
Initially prosperous, by the end of 1843 people began leaving Nelson due to increased loss of earnings, and by 1846 some 25% of immigrants had moved away. The pressure to find farmland became intense, and with the fertile plains of the Wairau Valley to the south-east, the New Zealand Company tried to claim that they already had purchased the land. The local Maori stated quite adamantly that the Wairau Valley had not formed part of the original land sale and made it clear they would resist any attempts by the settlers to occupy the area.
Led by Captain Arthur Wakefield and Henry Thompson, the settlers tried to take the valley on Saturday 17 June, 1843 and what became known as the 'Wairau Incident'7 ensued. A subsequent government enquiry exonerated the local Maori of murder, judging that the Nelson settlers had no legitimate claim to any land outside Tasman Bay.
Although sheltered by the 'Boulder Bank', Nelson Haven was an awkward port for large vessels until 1906 when 'The Cut' was made, effectively creating Haulashore Island and obviating the need to negotiate the hazardously shallow waters surrounding Fifeshare Rock, which famously claimed the Arrow on her arrival. It then became a vital trade link for other settlers to New Zealand's South Island. By the 1860s Nelson was a popular destination and the first rugby match in New Zealand took place at the Botanic Reserve in the city on Saturday, 14 May, 1870 - between the Nelson Football Club and Nelson College. Rugby later became the national sport, the New Zealand All Blacks one of the strongest sides in the game.
Heading into the 21st Century, the city of Nelson (including the adjacent town of Richmond) has a population of approximately 50,000 - and has recently increased in population more rapidly than any other region in New Zealand.
Why go to Nelson?
Nelson has quite probably the best climate in New Zealand, in that it regularly tops the national statistics for sunshine hours. With good beaches and a sheltered harbour, the summer sees the city crowded and thriving. It is a centre for both ecotourism and adventure tourism, and has a high reputation among caving enthusiasts due to several prominent cave systems around nearby Takaka Hill and Mount Owen in the Southern Alps.
Nelson is also a busy seaport, with many people owning boats or other water craft. The harbour entrance is protected by a natural breakwater known as the Boulder Bank, which also reduces the effects of the tide on Nelson's wide beaches. This allows for some of the safest sea bathing in the country, but Nelson has reasonably high tides and quite common and occasionally devastating flash floods that wash over the low-lying parts of the region. They are an unavoidable consequence of hundreds and thousands of hectares of 'heavy-rain-prone' catchment to the south and east converging into just three rivers that adjoin the sea: the Motueka, the Appleby and the Maitai.
Located at the end of Trafalgar Street8, the Christ Church Cathedral is probably the city centre's most recognisable attraction, with a fantastic 'hollow' grey steeple and picturesque gardens. Even at the height of the tourist season, the cathedral is as quiet as its surrounding graves, due to its siting. However, it's very quiet, and being a stone's throw from the shops, a great retreat on a hot day. Many of the other older streets in Nelson bear the names of the early immigrant ships, including the Arrow and Whitby. Sadly, thanks to the aforementioned earthquakes, Trafalgar Street is practically devoid of Victorian buildings, architecturally scenic or otherwise. The oldest building dates from the 1880s and is now a pub. However, hanging baskets add colour to an otherwise unremarkable grid of streets. In the suburb called 'The Wood', a small amount of the original immigrant houses and cottages can be seen. Nelson survives on fishing, fruit, forestry and farming.
Nelson also serves as a hub for arts and crafts, and each year hosts popular events such as the Nelson Arts Festival in October, which is packed with theatre, music, dance and literary events, and up until recently the World of Wearable Arts Awards9. Because of the large art community, jewellery is particularly popular and near the Copthorne Rutherford Hotel (Nelson's tallest building at nine storeys) and parallel to Trafalgar Street is Jens Hansen Jewellery, which designed the 'One Ring' for Peter Jackson's Lord Of The Rings films.
There is so much to see and do in Nelson, there are all the usual attractions of any large city - shops, restaurants, movie theatres and all other things of that type. It's best for you to explore on your own, and find little jackpots!10
Reaching Out
As Nelson sprawls out so far, there are a great deal of things to do everywhere!
This beautiful historic park is a must for all tourists as it contains the history of Nelson, a huge collection of boats in bottles, a village snapshot of Nelson's founding days, as well as Australasia's first organic brewery, Founders Brewery. The Centre of New Zealand Walk starts here too, on a road cheerfully referred to as Whitehead Place. And just nearby (about three minutes walk) are the Miyazu Japanese Gardens11.
Boulder Bank Lighthouse
The lighthouse on Boulder Bank is one of Nelson's oldest landmarks which had served faithfully for well over 100 years, but was retired in 1982 because the modern city lights were 'drowning out' the lamp. The whole of the 12km stretch of Boulder Bank is also a wildlife refuge for nesting sea birds.
Haulashore Island
The Cut, a man-made break in the Boulder Bank, was created in 1906 to make a new entrance to the harbour. This also saw the formation of Haulashore Island, which can be reached by ferry for daytrips and picnicking. Overnight camping does occur, but is strongly discouraged as there are no facilities on the island.
WOW: World of Wearable Arts & Classic Car Museum
Located near the airport, this museum of wearable arts was started by a small farming community and just grew in popularity.
Höglund Glass is the home of glassblowing in New Zealand. Inside you can watch the glassblowers at work, explore the farm area and playground, eat or drink 'kiwi' food and coffee or view the previous workings in the gallery and shop.
Experience the kiwi spirit first hand when you sign up to be launched off a mountain, shot at with paint balls, drive a 4x4 motorbike and just go crazy with madness fuelled mayhem.
Natural Attractions
Nelson is exceptionally scenic, but here are some even more amazingly beautiful locations in and around the city;
The Maitai River
Running through Nelson from the hills, if you follow the river by walking along its banks you'll come across some great swimming hotspots! The further up the river you go, the less crowded it will become12.
Cable Bay
Further along the road from the Happy Valley Adventure Park is the most amazing beach in the Nelson region. There is no sand on this beach, only beautiful grey rocks wonderful for getting warm! A wetsuit is advised for those from warmer climates.
Golden Bay
Tata Beach is a must see, lined with golden sand, this calm beach is protected by granite islands. Try and find the best colours in the small granite chips found along the beach.
This is where true beauty is defined, and words do it no justice.
Rabbit Island
Just west of Nelson off the coast is an island covered by pine plantations. It is used by the Tasman District Council as a 'cash cow' - 90% or thereabouts is planted in forestry and so, luckily, there's no commercial (tourist) activity on the island whatsoever; the gates are locked from sunset to sunrise every night of the year.
The Waterfront
Tahunanui Beach is the main beach in Nelson, and is home to some awesome attractions ;
Nelson Fun Park
Located right on the beach front at Tahunanui, the Nelson Fun Park is home to bumper boats, a huge hydroslide and mini-golf13.
Speaks for itself. Get up close and personal with animals from the far corners of the globe.
Go-Karts
Just next to the Nelson Fun Park is the Go-Kart track. Have a drive and good luck.
Food and Drink
At the time of writing (2006), there are many great places to eat and drink in Nelson, these being some of the better;
Eateries
MaFish
Seafood and style with this recommended restaurant.
Haven Fish and Chips
Yes! These are the Fish & Chips to get!
The Milton Street Fish & Chip Shop
Fish & Chips and the best burgers in town.
The Boat Shed
Hanging over the sea front, this choice restaurant serves a wonderful selection of 'surf 'n' turf'.
Anchor Bar and Grill
In 'The Port', the Anchor offers excellent fresh seaside seafood.
The Honest Lawyer
English Country style pub with peacocks and chooks14 out the front, the views are lovely, looking out on the sprawling gardens and sea.
The Pheasant Plucker of the Bush
Another pub located near Milton Street Fish & Chips Shop, just watch how you pronounce it, especially after a few ales...
Wineries
There are numerous vineyards scattered around the Nelson area, and too many to name. To find out more visit Nelson Wineries.
Getting around
There are many different ways of getting around Nelson and its surrounding areas;
Walking
Many of the attractions in Nelson are close by, so walking is definitely a healthy option for getting around.
Cycling
You can hire out bicycles at various locations in the city.
Taxi
Taxis, or 'cabs', can be flagged down or called upon throughout Nelson City.
Bus
Nelson has many suburban routes on normal buses, as well as a SummerTime Bus: a double decker bus that runs through summer, touring the Nelson area and surrounding municipalities.
Car
If you'd prefer not to use public transport, hire cars are available too, just be aware of driving laws in New Zealand.
Ferry
Ferries run regularly between Nelson and the North Island, plus smaller 'water taxis' can take you to Haulashore Island and the Abel Tasman National Park - a great way of seeing the scenery and coastline.
Air
Nelson City Airport is the fourth busiest airport (in terms of takeoffs and landings, not number of passengers) in New Zealand - so planes are tiny; don't bank on making last-minute bookings, especially in the summer or on Mondays/Fridays when many locals commute to and fro from Wellington. Flights are regular between Wellington, Auckland and Christchurch through Air New Zealand. A shuttlebus service runs from the airport to Nelson City Centre.
Further Information
Nelson has sister cities around the world; Miyazu in Japan, Huangshi City in China and Eureka, California, USA. It is also the birthplace of atomic physicist Ernest Rutherford15.
Whether it’s a meal out, a day touring, an adventure at Happy Valley or any of the other marvellous places, Nelson is truly a place you have to see! For more on the city and surrounding region visit the Nelson City Council website or the official tourism website.
