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The Cliffs of Bleugghh
Woodpigeon Started conversation May 26, 2009
A warning to would-be sailors. Try not to get sick. It is a little known fact that when you start vomiting, you cannot stop; and you will spend the entire rest of your journey hanging off the side of the boat staring at (and providing readily digested food to) the fishies.
I took a trip to the Aran Islands over the weekend. Normally a short 6 mile boat trip from Doolin to Inis Oirr, our boat set sail in a force 7 gale, with 10 foot breakers crashing against the pier. There were a ton of people on board from all corners of the globe. A small complement of the passengers, Americans mainly, shouted cheerily each time we crested and lurched into the troughs. Or at least that's what happened for the first 10 minutes. After that, a gloomy silence descended as the once happy-clappy complement began to regret ever having booked the boat-trip, or to wish murderous thought on the idiot who came up with the idea of booking the boat-trip in the first place. A woman beside me inquired about our proximity to the island once every minute, as if she was reciting some esoteric deliverance prayer.
When we arrived in Inis Oirr, almost the entire complement of passengers left the boat, as if someone had wet farted in a lift. We, the hardy remaining passengers, had the boat to ourselves for the onward journey to Inishmore. Conditions were much better from then on. The waves had settled down and flocks of razorbills, guillemots and terns accompanied us on our journey.
What you get on the islands is a kind of desperation not seen on the mainland. Everyone is either a taxi driver, a B&B owner or is renting out bikes. They are all waiting for you on the pier, fighting with each other to get your attention and more importantly, your custom. It would remind you of an Egyptian or Turkish resort where money is tight and competition is fierce. We strolled from Kilronan to Dun Aonghus and back again - a round trip of 9 miles. It was fairly rushed due to the tides and the boatman's need to leave, on the dot, at 3pm.
The trip back to Inis Oirr was again quite calm. It was only when we left the harbour of the last island that things went truly to the dogs. Almost immediately, the waves reached 12 feet high and for the next 2 hours we were buffeted around like a cork in a flushing toilet. The kid in front of me went green. Her mum tried to comfort her, but she too became a casualty. Then someone to the left started to throw up. Then another person behind us. Before we knew it, an international vomit festival was in full flow.
Now the bad news. We were not going back to Doolin. The port was engulfed by huge breakers and it would be too dangerous to land. We would have to go to Liscannor. This meant passing the Cliffs of Moher, some of the largest sea cliffs in Europe, where 20 foot waves are not unknown. On our way, the boat's engines briefly stopped working. This meant that for a few moments the stabilisers came to a halt, so you can imagine the scene on board.
Eventually we made dry land, and we were bundled onto a bus for the short journey back to Doolin. Thankfully I did not get sick myself. I kept my eyes firmly on the horizon and objects in the far distance, and it seemed to do the trick. Nevertheless, my stomach wasn't quite right for the rest of the evening and I went to bed early. Enough excitement for one lifetime.
Although I doubt if the boat was ever in much danger, I'm surprised that at no time were lifejackets handed out to the passengers. Neither were there any safety briefings for passengers before we embarked. If an accident had happened, it would have been sudden, swift and deadly. I doubt if anyone would have been prepared for it.
I have a short video of huge wave breaking against the cliffs on my blog. Pictures and videos of the scene onboard I will leave to your imagination.
http://woodpigeon01.wordpress.com/2009/05/25/a-boat-trip-to-remember/
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
pailaway - (an utterly gratuitous link in the evolutionary chain) Posted May 26, 2009
I live a good thousand miles from any coast. You've reminded me of why this is.
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
I prefer being on top of the Cliffs of Moher.
In nice sunny warm summer weather.
I'm a very seasick person, sometimes even a slow rowing boat on a calm lake is enough.
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
Woodpigeon Posted May 26, 2009
Actually managed to get some lovely photos from the top of the Cliffs of Moher the day before. My companion and I were in competition with each other to take a photo with a flying seagull and the setting sun in the same picture... The view is absolutely amazing from the cliffs. What a wonderful part of the planet.
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
KB Posted May 26, 2009
We were going to do that same trip last weekend! It doesn't seem so regretable that we couldn't now.
Although I still wish we'd had more time to do more things like that.
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
Malabarista - now with added pony Posted May 26, 2009
What KB said! We decided it was too foggy, and stayed on land.
I've never gotten seasick and don't intend to start anytime soon! So probably best to stay away from the sea.
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
KB Posted May 26, 2009
Perhaps we should wean you onto it gradually. The Irish Sea might be a good start before the Atlantic - more sheltered!
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
Malabarista - now with added pony Posted May 26, 2009
Maybe. I never had a problem with heights until recently, so maybe the Dutchie genes are just wearing off.
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
Skankyrich [?] Posted May 26, 2009
Brilliant video, Woodpigeon!
I've always wanted to go to Clare Island, but I may think twice now. Westport will do me just fine.
The Cliffs of Bleugghh
Woodpigeon Posted May 26, 2009
I'm thinking of going to the Skelligs next weekend. There was a gannet in the water this evening beside where I live, so I'm taking it as a good sign.
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/285127
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The Cliffs of Bleugghh
- 1: Woodpigeon (May 26, 2009)
- 2: pailaway - (an utterly gratuitous link in the evolutionary chain) (May 26, 2009)
- 3: dragonqueen - eternally free and forever untamed - insomniac extraordinaire - proprietrix of a bullwhip, badger button and (partly) of a thoroughly used sub with a purple collar. Matron of Honour. (May 26, 2009)
- 4: Woodpigeon (May 26, 2009)
- 5: KB (May 26, 2009)
- 6: Galaxy Babe - eclectic editor (May 26, 2009)
- 7: Malabarista - now with added pony (May 26, 2009)
- 8: KB (May 26, 2009)
- 9: Malabarista - now with added pony (May 26, 2009)
- 10: Skankyrich [?] (May 26, 2009)
- 11: Woodpigeon (May 26, 2009)
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