Szechuan Peppercorns - burn and numb your senses
Created | Updated May 21, 2003
Introduction
Readers might ask why is it of any importance for one to know about this particular peppercorn. However, its 'stimulating' nature means that one might want to avoid it should you come across it in some cuisines.
What is Szechuan Peppercorn?1
This is a spice native to the province of Szechuan, China. It is widely used in the local cuisines and is known by the name of 'Huajiao', meaning 'flower pepper'. The spice is made from the dried outer casings of the berries of the Chinese Prickly Ash(Zanthoxylum simulans). Chinese Prickly Ash is a deciduous, evergreen shrub that has a height range from ~4.60m to ~7.60m. Although its berries are being called 'peppercorns', the shrub does not in fact belong to the peppercorn family. It grows in the wild in the Szechuan Province on the low/med level of the mountains, where the local farmers harvest the berries to be sold at the markets at the foot of the mountains. A berry consists of a black seed enclosed by a red casing. To prepare the actual spice used in cooking, the berries are dried, the black seeds, which have a bitter flavour, are removed. The red casings are then heated over medium heat until smoking but not burnt. This process brings out the tantalisingly spicy flavour of the peppercorns. While these are still hot, they are grounded into powder. Szechuan peppercorns are also sold as wholes.
Properties
The bark of Zanthoxylum simulans contains alkaloids2 and a volatile oil, while the berries themselves are rich in the volatile oil. The berries contain the alkamide Herculin that causes a localised numbing effect on the tongue on consumption. The alkaloids extracted are often used to kill parasites. The berries themselves could burst under intense sunlight. Contact with the burst berries causes irritation of the skin in the form of a burning sensation. According to many Chinese medical trials, the oral use of the spice can alleviate the pain due to indigestions, gallbladder diseases or ulcers as well as eliminating pinworms. However, the possible medical properties of the spice have not been testified by western medical trials.
Role in Szechuan Cuisines
Spiciness is believed to rid the body of internal dampness and overcome the cold according to the tradition Chinese doctrine.
Therefore with the climate of the Szechuan province being wet and damp overall, while it can be cold where it rises into the surrounding mountain ranges, the peppercorn form an essential part of many Szechuan cuisines. One of the most famous is the Szechuan Hotpot - a tabletop deep wok heated with an over generous amount of devilishly red chilli oil, garlic, scallions and most of all a handful of Szechuan whole peppercorn in a clear soup.
The continuous heating and boiling of the soup (you are provided with boiling kettles of water on the side for you to top up the wok when it is drying out) means that the 'spiciness' of the peppercorn is further released3 into the soup as the meal goes on. If any hitchhikers were lucky enough to participate in one of these meals with the locals, you shall be able to observe the following:
- Hotpots continue over scorching hot summers;
- Even the locals are sweating with tears glittering in their eyes when they are at it - that makes one wonder how spicy it must be. Considering they have hotpots extremely habitually and probably since they were children, one would have supposed that they would have built up a good level of 'spiciness' tolerance;
- Fortunately it is a custom for the restaurants to provide you with packets of tissues to wipe your sweat, tears and very often to blow the runny noses. There is also a scorching sensation on the lips that gives the illusion of it having swelled to at least twice its original size.
- First, second or third timers often experience indigestions (as if someone is trying to blow dry your stomach while applying methanol on its lining simultaneously) or unpleasant burning sensation when going for the long lavatory sessions after the meal. This is due to the vast quantity of chilli oil one has ingested, which the digestive system fails to assimilate. Thus the oil burns all the way along the alimentary canal right to the end.
Fried Hot Diced Chicken - Szechuan Style
The taste of Szechuan is salty, intense and extremely spicy4. This is one of the least 'stimulating' local dishes.
Ingredients:
- 7oz(200g) chicken breasts and thighs
- 2 tbsp cornstarch (corn flour), dissolved in 2 tbsp of water
- 1/8 tsp salt, or to taste
- 2 tsp rice wine
- 1/2 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 cup high stock
- 1 tsp sesame oil
- 1 red hot chilli
- 1/2 cup (~100ml) vegetable oil
- 3-4 slices of ginger, chopped into shreds
- 2 tsp scallions, chopped
- a few garlic slices
- 1/8 tsp MSG
- 1 tbsp of chilli oil
Instructions:
Skin, bone and dice the chicken. Blend 1tbsp of the cornstarch water with 1 tsp of rice wine and some salt. Coat over the chicken. Leave to marinate.
In another bowl, mix the soy sauce, sesame oil, the remaining 1 tbsp of cornstarch water and rice wine, together with the MSG. Leave on one side.
Peel and dice the water chestnuts. Seed the chillies and chop finely. Leave on one side.
Heat the oil in a wok over high heat. Add the chilli oil and chilli pieces and fry for 30 seconds. Add and stir -fry the chicken until it acquired a red tint but about 70% cooked.
Add the ginger, water chestnuts, scallions and garlic. Fry until fragrant. Stir in the sauce and sprinkle with some vinegar. Fry for about 30 sec. Ready to serve!
Disclaimer
Szechuan peppercorns numb and burn the lips and tongues. Otherwise they are mostly harmless, as the rest of the Earth.
Virginia University of Commonwealth for basic chemical definitions of alkaloids.3hot water and alcohols are good solvents for alkaloids and alkamides, as with most organic compounds.4As is common in places in China where the climate is damp and could get quite cold (as on the mountainous terrain of parts of Szechuan).
