England is famous for Afternoon Tea. However, over those who have been to the some of England's most famous of the Afternoon Tea venues a certain level disappointment descends (there is a famous grocer on Piccadilly and I am looking at you). So it is delightful to find in this very busy place, the Western end of Piccadilly, a very busy cafe that is true style and panache.

It isn't very cheap but next door, the Ritz, is seriously more expensive. You are on the corner of St James and Piccadilly so the venue is very convenient for gentlemen shopping on Jermyn St or for families getting refreshed between stints at the Royal Academy. You are greeted by a team of waiters at the door, one of whom will show you to your table (you will have booked). The clouds of bus boys, waiters and who knows who else will whisk you away into afternoon tea land.

The venue is also good for late evening supper, the kitchen closes at midnight. It is also rated by others (I have never tried) as London's best venue for breakfast too.

I have had dinner there once but I found the whole thing to be a disappointment. Maybe dinner is too serious a meal for a place where style is the substance. You want a meal where supper can be a fabulous schnitzel for one person, chopped chicken and tarragon salad for another and Austrian style cake for a third, all washed down with freezing cold champagne. The only thing missing is a band and dancers in evening clothes. And I suspect that is not a bad thing.

Getting There: Find the Ritz on Piccadilly and go across the road.

Who should eat there: The glamorous.

Dining Style: See and be seen, be lovely.

Price: £25pp and up but it really depends on the time of day.

Quality: Fantasy middle European style.

Would I go Back: When I am invited.

Phoenician Trader

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