Gothic & Lolita Style in the UK
Created | Updated Jul 17, 2005
What it is?
Subcultural fashion derived from the Japanese Gothic & Lolita style/ fashions. Since this has steadily gaining popularity in the UK, I have attempted to explain it by means of this article.
This is meant to be both a descriptive piece based on having met and spoken to the people involved, and also first-hand experience of being one. However, I take a relaxed view of most things and as such this does reflect my personal take on the subject. I'd like to think that if I have one, it's an implied wish for everyone to lighten up a little.
Usually referred to as Gothic Lolita, or loligoth, although it is more truly Gothic and/ or Lolita, crossing a wide range of similar but disparate styles. However, 'Lolita' is used as an umbrella term, as each style shares that essential characteristic, whatever its individual expression.
What is it not?
Perverse. Despite the name there is no connection to either Nabokov's book, child pornography, 'roricon', or other inappropriate behaviours.
It is also not cosplay. It should be pointed out that G&L is worn as 'normal' clothing (not necessarily everyday, but that it is seen as regular clothing rather than a costume). It would therefore be incorrect to say you 'cosplay GL', as that would mean you are treating it only as dressing up and it's not what you would choose to wear normally. It should be noted that if you are cosplaying a *character* whose style is GL, that is a different matter. You are dressing as the character would, not as yourself, and therefore it would be cosplay.
Looks like?
The overall style is based upon the image of little girl's clothes.
Seriously, that's all there is to it. The awkward part is discussing all the many different subcategories, which is where it sometimes gets nasty.
Terminology:
Gothic & Lolita style has several different main themes. One person might wear one exclusively, or favour most styles. There is some but not much mixing of themes, as it is either difficult to mix styles without it looking odd, or it's already covered in another category.
These are the most identifiable styles that have to date appeared in the UK. I have tried to give the most appropriate terms for each, as sometimes names cross over and share characteristics.
Quite a few UK practitioners use borrowed Japanese terms for their mode of dress, so I have included them here *as they have been used*. This is not meant to define how those styles are practiced in their original country. (Also used are the terms 'kurololi' and 'shirololi'. These mean 'Black' and 'White Lolita' respectively, and although linked to specific themes (black= gothic, white= sweet) are generally used refer to individual outfits rather than actual styles.)
I have not included the category 'Gothic', as in the UK this is a quite distinct style of its own. Indeed, Gothic & Lolita here is usually seen as an offshoot or subcategory of Goth fashion and many people who are into the style have come to it from there.
I have also not used the term 'EGL'. If you dress Lolita, you are *not* necessarily EGL. This handy acronym, standing for 'Elegant Gothic Lolita', might be appropriate but nevertheless it is a specific brand-based term used only by the Moi-Meme-Moitie (Mana's clothing line). M-M-M also make 'EGA' (for 'Elegant Gothic Aristocrat'), which for all intents and purposes is very similar to our own Victorian or Romantic Goth. If you dress in a very similar way to M-M-M.
There is also a great deal of argument over what fits into each category. This sometimes can get very heated, as can discussion as to what the 'proper' terms are. Since this is not intended to be a prescriptive article, terms included here are used more as common denominators, rather than 'what it should be called'.
Also, just to reassure anyone who's still unsure about the name, no one dressed in Lolita style could ever pass for a real 6-year old. Ever.
Subcategories:
Gothic Lolita
This is the most easily recognisable style, and the most easily faked. (More discussion of fakery and cash-ins later). Essentially, it is as we in the UK know it, a mixture of traditional Gothic elements with the creepily cute appearance of a little girl.
In practice, it's usually black with white lace (rarely nothing-but black; black and pink is also quite popular), just-above or on-the-knee skirts with wide petticoats, bloomers and other anachronistic undergarments; decorative knee-socks, Mary Jane shoes, exaggerated anime-style platforms, or antique-style boots. Plenty of frills, lace and ruffles. Sometimes incorporates a distinctly school-uniformish aesthetic.
It is a loosely-used term, and is often used as a descriptor amongst those who might dress in any of other the applicable styles. In that case it would refer to one's being more of a Gothically-inclined Lolita enthusiast, rather than her specific fashion preferences.
AKA loligoth, goth-loli, gosurori (Japanese phoneticisation); although as mentioned these are often used to describe the fashion as a whole.
Ideal Japanese brand? Oddly enough, no brand makes *specifically* Gothic Lolita clothing and only that. As mentioned above, Moi-Meme-Moitie have their own EGL subcategory (and it is usually more understated and mature than most), so they don't really fit here; for best results, see anything by Atelier-Pierrot tread close to EGL but are probably also a good example.
Sweet Lolita
Very similar in style to Gothic Lolita, although usually even more frilly. Super-cute, sometimes verging on twee. The traditional chocolate-box Victorian little-girl style (although the clothes will not necessarily be historically-based). Colours are mainly pastel or light shades (pink is popular, as is pale blue), and florals are popular.
AKA 'Amaloli', or 'Country Lolita'.
Classic Lolita
Less fussy and a bit more grown-up. Looks like Sweet Lolita with the frills cut off, to some degree... emphasis is on clean styles with less froth, although individual outfits can be extremely detailed; more use of understated frills, pintucks and ruffles than masses of trim.
AKA nothing, AFAIK. Not all that popular it seems, possibly because it's quite understated. I have a suspicion that it is seen as boring, although it can look very dramatic. Probably difficult to wear casually.
Ideal Japanese brand(s): Victorian Maiden, Mary Magdalene, Atelier Pierrot.
I would also included Atelier Boz in this category as they have a very strict, mininalist style. Although they make clothes only in black and white and are very different from the two above, the style elements seem the same. They have a much more obviously Gothic appearance, however.
Punk Lolita
Wa-Loli
Those who like to dress Lolita and also appreciate kimono will be pleased to know they can combine the two. It seems quite rare, but it has its adherants. Basically it is a fusion of traditional Japanese fashion with Lolita style, which usually translates as 'frilly kimono-type dress with a petticoat underneath'. Some hardcore enthusiasts transform actual kimono by slitting up the side seams so they can be worn over a wide skirt.
Similarly, there are examples of traditional Chinese clothing influences; Lolita dresses featuring elements of the Chinese qipao/cheongsam.
Kodona
Old-fashioned fashions for little boys, as worn by not-so-little girls.
Culture?
The Japanese Lolita scene recognises the phenomenon of 'otarori' (otaku lolita, analogous to 'baby bats' or 'spookykids' in our homegrown Goth scene.) Curiously enough, this style seems to have been most capitalised on outside Japan; perhaps because the style is lacking in subtlety, and the preferred brands of the otarori are cheaper and easier to obtain than high-end Gothic & Lolita clothing.
Whereas each distinct style in Japanese Lolita fashion has its own subset of behaviour, UK Lolitas don't appear to do this. Also,
Japanese language is by comparison, more applicable to being split into different levels of usage (especially politeness); for instance, in English, we might have the difference between 'Excuse me please', and 'Move!', but it is neither as rigid nor as effective as the nuances of Japanese speech.
Outside interests?
Comparisons?
'Rules'- elitists vs. trashlolis?
There is a lot of discussion about rules. Or rather, there is a lot of argument, debate, flaming and fighting about rules.
The simplest solution is to say 'go by the Bibles'. This encourages those in need of guidance to do their own first-hand research and develop a personal interpretation. Not everyone can own a full set of G&LB's, but there are numerous scans online, and most of the brands have an easily-navigable website even if you can't read it.
What is our point, exactly?
Us&them
Those of us who dress Lolita in the UK are in very different circumstances from the Japanese originals. This makes it both easier and also more tricky to be a functioning UK Loli.
The UK Loli-goth is in a slightly awkward position. She might be entranced, but is by necessity distanced from a culture she can never truly belong to. It isn't a case of mere geography; British society is different from Japanese society, and subcultures do not cross over that easily. She might adore the clothes, listen to the right music, but she'll never be a Japanese Lolita.
She can therefore take one of two paths. She can slavishly devote herself to what she sees as proper, Japanese-Loli culture. Brand-name clothing only, whatever the cost; Visual Kei only, above all Mana-sama; and the general attitude of one who knows better.
The other might do all that and more, but does not exclude her own life. She realises that it's impossible to be the same as the Japanese Lolita; she will never think like her, feel like her, spend like her. So why should she bother? Is it not more practical to take those aspects of Lolita culture that work for everyone, and adapt them more to her own circumstance?
Subcultural fashion derived from the Japanese Gothic & Lolita style/ fashions. Since this has steadily gaining popularity in the UK, I have attempted to explain it by means of this article.
This is meant to be both a descriptive piece based on having met and spoken to the people involved, and also first-hand experience of being one. However, I take a relaxed view of most things and as such this does reflect my personal take on the subject. I'd like to think that if I have one, it's an implied wish for everyone to lighten up a little.
Usually referred to as Gothic Lolita, or loligoth, although it is more truly Gothic and/ or Lolita, crossing a wide range of similar but disparate styles. However, 'Lolita' is used as an umbrella term, as each style shares that essential characteristic, whatever its individual expression.
What is it not?
Perverse. Despite the name there is no connection to either Nabokov's book, child pornography, 'roricon', or other inappropriate behaviours.
It is also not cosplay. It should be pointed out that G&L is worn as 'normal' clothing (not necessarily everyday, but that it is seen as regular clothing rather than a costume). It would therefore be incorrect to say you 'cosplay GL', as that would mean you are treating it only as dressing up and it's not what you would choose to wear normally. It should be noted that if you are cosplaying a *character* whose style is GL, that is a different matter. You are dressing as the character would, not as yourself, and therefore it would be cosplay.
Looks like?
The overall style is based upon the image of little girl's clothes.
Seriously, that's all there is to it. The awkward part is discussing all the many different subcategories, which is where it sometimes gets nasty.
Terminology:
Gothic & Lolita style has several different main themes. One person might wear one exclusively, or favour most styles. There is some but not much mixing of themes, as it is either difficult to mix styles without it looking odd, or it's already covered in another category.
These are the most identifiable styles that have to date appeared in the UK. I have tried to give the most appropriate terms for each, as sometimes names cross over and share characteristics.
Quite a few UK practitioners use borrowed Japanese terms for their mode of dress, so I have included them here *as they have been used*. This is not meant to define how those styles are practiced in their original country. (Also used are the terms 'kurololi' and 'shirololi'. These mean 'Black' and 'White Lolita' respectively, and although linked to specific themes (black= gothic, white= sweet) are generally used refer to individual outfits rather than actual styles.)
I have not included the category 'Gothic', as in the UK this is a quite distinct style of its own. Indeed, Gothic & Lolita here is usually seen as an offshoot or subcategory of Goth fashion and many people who are into the style have come to it from there.
I have also not used the term 'EGL'. If you dress Lolita, you are *not* necessarily EGL. This handy acronym, standing for 'Elegant Gothic Lolita', might be appropriate but nevertheless it is a specific brand-based term used only by the Moi-Meme-Moitie (Mana's clothing line). M-M-M also make 'EGA' (for 'Elegant Gothic Aristocrat'), which for all intents and purposes is very similar to our own Victorian or Romantic Goth. If you dress in a very similar way to M-M-M.
There is also a great deal of argument over what fits into each category. This sometimes can get very heated, as can discussion as to what the 'proper' terms are. Since this is not intended to be a prescriptive article, terms included here are used more as common denominators, rather than 'what it should be called'.
Also, just to reassure anyone who's still unsure about the name, no one dressed in Lolita style could ever pass for a real 6-year old. Ever.
Subcategories:
Gothic Lolita
This is the most easily recognisable style, and the most easily faked. (More discussion of fakery and cash-ins later). Essentially, it is as we in the UK know it, a mixture of traditional Gothic elements with the creepily cute appearance of a little girl.
In practice, it's usually black with white lace (rarely nothing-but black; black and pink is also quite popular), just-above or on-the-knee skirts with wide petticoats, bloomers and other anachronistic undergarments; decorative knee-socks, Mary Jane shoes, exaggerated anime-style platforms, or antique-style boots. Plenty of frills, lace and ruffles. Sometimes incorporates a distinctly school-uniformish aesthetic.
It is a loosely-used term, and is often used as a descriptor amongst those who might dress in any of other the applicable styles. In that case it would refer to one's being more of a Gothically-inclined Lolita enthusiast, rather than her specific fashion preferences.
AKA loligoth, goth-loli, gosurori (Japanese phoneticisation); although as mentioned these are often used to describe the fashion as a whole.
Ideal Japanese brand? Oddly enough, no brand makes *specifically* Gothic Lolita clothing and only that. As mentioned above, Moi-Meme-Moitie have their own EGL subcategory (and it is usually more understated and mature than most), so they don't really fit here; for best results, see anything by Atelier-Pierrot tread close to EGL but are probably also a good example.
Sweet Lolita
Very similar in style to Gothic Lolita, although usually even more frilly. Super-cute, sometimes verging on twee. The traditional chocolate-box Victorian little-girl style (although the clothes will not necessarily be historically-based). Colours are mainly pastel or light shades (pink is popular, as is pale blue), and florals are popular.
AKA 'Amaloli', or 'Country Lolita'.
Classic Lolita
Less fussy and a bit more grown-up. Looks like Sweet Lolita with the frills cut off, to some degree... emphasis is on clean styles with less froth, although individual outfits can be extremely detailed; more use of understated frills, pintucks and ruffles than masses of trim.
AKA nothing, AFAIK. Not all that popular it seems, possibly because it's quite understated. I have a suspicion that it is seen as boring, although it can look very dramatic. Probably difficult to wear casually.
Ideal Japanese brand(s): Victorian Maiden, Mary Magdalene, Atelier Pierrot.
I would also included Atelier Boz in this category as they have a very strict, mininalist style. Although they make clothes only in black and white and are very different from the two above, the style elements seem the same. They have a much more obviously Gothic appearance, however.
Punk Lolita
Wa-Loli
Those who like to dress Lolita and also appreciate kimono will be pleased to know they can combine the two. It seems quite rare, but it has its adherants. Basically it is a fusion of traditional Japanese fashion with Lolita style, which usually translates as 'frilly kimono-type dress with a petticoat underneath'. Some hardcore enthusiasts transform actual kimono by slitting up the side seams so they can be worn over a wide skirt.
Similarly, there are examples of traditional Chinese clothing influences; Lolita dresses featuring elements of the Chinese qipao/cheongsam.
Kodona
Old-fashioned fashions for little boys, as worn by not-so-little girls.
Culture?
The Japanese Lolita scene recognises the phenomenon of 'otarori' (otaku lolita, analogous to 'baby bats' or 'spookykids' in our homegrown Goth scene.) Curiously enough, this style seems to have been most capitalised on outside Japan; perhaps because the style is lacking in subtlety, and the preferred brands of the otarori are cheaper and easier to obtain than high-end Gothic & Lolita clothing.
Whereas each distinct style in Japanese Lolita fashion has its own subset of behaviour, UK Lolitas don't appear to do this. Also,
Japanese language is by comparison, more applicable to being split into different levels of usage (especially politeness); for instance, in English, we might have the difference between 'Excuse me please', and 'Move!', but it is neither as rigid nor as effective as the nuances of Japanese speech.
Outside interests?
Comparisons?
'Rules'- elitists vs. trashlolis?
There is a lot of discussion about rules. Or rather, there is a lot of argument, debate, flaming and fighting about rules.
The simplest solution is to say 'go by the Bibles'. This encourages those in need of guidance to do their own first-hand research and develop a personal interpretation. Not everyone can own a full set of G&LB's, but there are numerous scans online, and most of the brands have an easily-navigable website even if you can't read it.
What is our point, exactly?
Us&them
Those of us who dress Lolita in the UK are in very different circumstances from the Japanese originals. This makes it both easier and also more tricky to be a functioning UK Loli.
The UK Loli-goth is in a slightly awkward position. She might be entranced, but is by necessity distanced from a culture she can never truly belong to. It isn't a case of mere geography; British society is different from Japanese society, and subcultures do not cross over that easily. She might adore the clothes, listen to the right music, but she'll never be a Japanese Lolita.
She can therefore take one of two paths. She can slavishly devote herself to what she sees as proper, Japanese-Loli culture. Brand-name clothing only, whatever the cost; Visual Kei only, above all Mana-sama; and the general attitude of one who knows better.
The other might do all that and more, but does not exclude her own life. She realises that it's impossible to be the same as the Japanese Lolita; she will never think like her, feel like her, spend like her. So why should she bother? Is it not more practical to take those aspects of Lolita culture that work for everyone, and adapt them more to her own circumstance?
