The Country

Jordan is a relatively small country, situated in the continent of Asia, just. It borders Iraq, Syria, Israel, Saudi Arabia and the Palestine National Authority, and contains scores of worthy attractions to draw even the most finicky of tourists. It has bustling towns, sleepy little villages, seaside resorts, scuba diving and snorkelling, cultural and religious sites. There are top of the range hotels, as well as small family run, budget hotels and teh occasional dive - something for every budget. With all Jordan has to offer, you would expect it to be overrun with tourists, and suffer from the crass commercialism that seems to hit any country once the tourists arrive. The good news is - that hasn't happened!

Jordan still has that wonderful Middle East feel to it, without any of the problems of other Middle East countries, such as Egypt, whereby you get harassed at all times. You can look vaguely in the direction of a shop without being pulled in. You can walk the streets without being harassed for money. The Jordanians are exceptionally friendly people, and I haven't got a bad word for any of them.

Don't Miss

Petra

If you are going to Jordan, then you must see Petra. To see Petra properly, it's probably best not to take an organised trip. These trips tend to allow you only about 3 or 4 hours inside the sight, and you need much more time than that. There are many hotels near the entrance, within easy walking distance, and they are not dear.

Nothing you can say can actually describe Petra - it is probably one of the most wonderful sights in the Middle East. Sadly, as with all such sites, the prices matches. In 1999, the entrance fee was JD20, which is about £19 or $28, and to get the most out of Petra, you'll want to go in twice, hence two entrance fee's. They do however have a special double entry ticket which is slightly cheaper. Another word here is that included in the entrance fee prices is the trip from the pay-point to the end of the siq, the entrance to the main sight. However, I would advise you to walk it. It is about 1 - 1.5 km, and hence only takes about 15 minutes, but the Bedouins who take you will expect a tip of JD5 - JD10, which is exceptionally steep.

If you are able, try to make the hike's to the sacrificial high place and the monastery. The hikes seem fairly easy when looking at them from the bottom - don't be fooled. Anyone of reasonable condition will be able to do them, but you will feel it afterwards. Fortunately, the both have plenty of rest places and a café at the top. The views at the top are spectacular, and the monastery is magnificent, almost as breathtaking as the treasury, at the end of the siq¹ .

The best time to visit the site would be when it first opens, at 6 am. At this time, the site is very quiet and empty, so you will have plenty of time to take your pictures without thousands of people milling about, and you can make the hikes before the sun is at it's strongest. Also, at first light, the buildings all glow pink, which earnt Petra is nickname of The Rose City of the Desert

Have a good breakfast before entering the site, as it is not allowed to take your own food in, and their prices are very dear for what you get.

Whilst at Petra, be sure to take in the Donkey and Camel hospital just inside the sight - they do wonderful work looking after the animals. Unlike the beach as Blackpool, and a hundred and one other seaside resorts, these donkey's are well looked after and not overworked. The Bedouins are rewarded by the hospital for taking good care of the animals.

Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum right in the Syrian desert, and has the most breathtaking desert scenery I have ever seen. If your expecting sweeping sand dunes as far as the eye can see though, you'll be surprised. It is full of jebels²  which create stunning scenery.

The only way to get here is by four wheel drive or camel, and it's best to join a group or take a guide. It can be done in a day, but I would recommend staying overnight. Many groups, run by Bedouins, organise this and a chance to sleep in the desert, under the stars, should not be missed.

An important thing to note in the desert is firstly, the strength of the sun. The desert can be windy in the day, and feel quite cool. It isn't - wear a hat, lots of sunscreen and keep drinking. Secondly, never let the camp-site or 4WD out of your site! There are no obvious features to get your bearing with, and it is very easy to get lost. You may say to yourself "I know I'm behind that jebel" but once your base is out of site, jebels are everywhere and it's easy to become disorientated.

Amman

Amman is the capital of Jordan, and probably your start and end point, as it houses Queen Alia airport, usually referred to as Amman International. There are many cities whose architecture, style, layout or traffic network may win them awards - Amman isn't one of them. Don't get me wrong, I love Amman, it is friendly and hospitable, it's just that it's also busy, chaotic and can be quite confusing.

Amman is over 5,000 years old so it has plenty of history attached - a roman citadel, a roman theatre³  to name but a few. If you take in the citadel, pay a visit to the National Archaeological Museum. Amongst the fine exhibits are both a copper and leather Dead Sea Scroll, and you are free to take pictures of them.

For cheap hotels, head for the downtown area. It may seem noisy, busy and dirty but it's still a wonderful place. If you left all your stuff in the middle of the street, it would all still be there on your return. For dearer, but quieter accommodation, head for the outskirts.

Jarash

The citadel at Jarash is nearly complete, and covers an extensive area, consequently, plan at least half a day for this. It has temples to the Greek god Zeus and goddess Diana⁴ , a roman theatre, colonnaded street, still with chariot ruts, a forum, and a huge temple in the centre.

You will probably want to stay near by, so that you can retire afterwards, or get an early start. However, your choice of hotels is limited to one. The Olive Tree Branch hotel is about 5 km from the town of Jarash, and hence the citadel, and is high on a steep hill, which means you'll probably need a taxi to get there, which will cost about JD25⁵  from Amman. However, the hotel is very nice, and has stunning views.

Mount Nebo

The summit of Mount Nebo is famous for two things. The first is that this is the spot where Moses allegedly saw the promised lands, and for the church which stands there. Inside, is a collection of mosaics, still in remarkable condition. There is no charge for this, so it's worth seeing, although it will only take about 20 minutes.

Madaba

Madaba is famous for it's mosaic on the floor showing all the holy sites in the area. However, I wouldn't make a special trip to see it. The mosaic is nearly all destroyed, and is really not worth a special trip, but if you are going past it, stop and take a look.

Karak

The desert castle at Karak is another wonderful sight, despite that fact the lower five floors are still entombed within the desert. This castle survived many sieges because of it's location, and superb views. The castle was finally seized when a tunnel was dug underneath the castle, and troops entered this way.

Dead Sea

If you are going anywhere near the Dead Sea, go for a swim. Due the high salt content of 35%, the Dead Sea is so called because nothing can live there. Actually, bacteria have recently been found to be living there, but nothing else. Swimming is actually a near impossibility, as is drowning! Just lie back and let yourself float away.

There are several places along the Dead Sea which provide changing room and facilities. Apart from the showers, I wouldn't partake in them though. They are exceptionally busy, and unbelievably dirty. The changing rooms I used doubled as toilets - In other words, you got changed in the toilets. They were 2 - 3 cm deep in urine, and the toilets were literally overflowing with 'human waste'. I did not get changed in there for fear of what I would catch! After leaving the Dead Sea, take a shower using one of the outdoor ones - even if there's a long queue. You may feel fine when you come out, but very shortly, when the water dries, you will find yourself covered in crystallising salt, setting hard, making even walking hard.

Mud from the bottom of the dead sea, if spread all over your body, allowed to dry in the sun, the showered off, it alleged to make you look ten years younger - I'll let you be the judge of whether this is true or not.

Aqaba

Aqaba, on the Red Sea, borders on three countries, Saudi Arabia to one side, Eilat in Israel on the other, just over the waters is Egypt. Aqaba is an excellent place for scuba diving, or snorkelling, and equipment can be hired from several hotels, even if you are not staying there.

If you do partake in this, remember the rules regarding the reef. Touch nothing and take nothing (even if it is loose, on the surface). The reef is in great danger due to people taking parts of it, and destroying it. The reef is a very delicate ecosystem which should be respected and not interfered with. Touching and taking from the reef is also highly illegal, and this law is upheld - take heed. Buying souvenirs from reef is also illegal. The shops may claim they have a license, or permission. They don't, no-one does, and buying it not only encourages them to continue to rape this precious reef and you also run the risk of having your little trinket confiscated at customs, and a large fine imposed.

Costs

Price wise, Jordan is probably as the top end as Middle Eastern prices go. Food and meals are generally cheaper than the UK or US, but alcoholic drinks are noticeably dearer. This is mainly becuase Jordan is a Muslim country, so Jordanians themselves are not allowed to buy alcohol by law. Hence, you may be asked to buy it on their behalf - exercise your own judgement in this!

Health

There are no specific health risks associated with Jordan, although Polio, Typhoid and Hepititis A are recommended. Yellow fever is only required if you are coming from an infected country. Malaria is not a problem.

Public Transport

Air

The only airports in Jordan are at Aqaba and Amman, so internal air travel is probably not much of an option. Jordan is only small however, so this shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Buses

Jett buses run between Amman and Aqaba, the King Hussein Bridge, Petra and Hammamat Ma'in. Private buses run from Amman to Aqaba and Irbid. Between the smaller towns, minibuses do run, however these are generally expensive when compared to the buses, and are not very reliable and tend t-o make detours if they feel like it.

Taxis

Taxis are everywhere in the city centre, and are available in larger towns, although you may have a problem in small towns and villages. To avoid being scammed, before setting off, make sure your Taxi drivers meter is working. It will probably not start at zero though, more like 2 JD which is the minimum fare. Much over this, question is with the driver before starting, to avoid problems later on.

Visas and Entry

A Visa is required for most countries to gain access. If you are flying in to Amman International/Queen Alia airport then you can buy a visa on arrival, which is cheaper than obtaining it in advance, although make sure you have some Jordanian currency as the first change point is passed the entry gate. Allow between JD20⁶  and JD35⁷  as the amount varies depending on country of origin and whether you are a citizen or a national of that country. If ten or more people are in your group (departing and leaving at the same time) then you may be able to secure a group visa for free. Please note that a departure tax is payable when leaving, in 1999 this was priced at JD10⁸ 

If you are not arriving on foot, it would be advisable to obtain your visa in advance, from the Embassy, as rules frequently change and many entry point cannot issue visa's. To avoid disappointment and hassle, obtain it in advance.