The Cathedral and Abbey Church of St Alban
Created | Updated Jan 28, 2002
Set in the historic city of St Albans, formerly the Roman town of Verulamium, form whose ruins much of the original stone was taken, St Albans Cathedral sits majestically near the top of Holywell Hill and is visible on a clear day for miles around.
The present building was started in 1077, but is set on the site of a much older church. In the intervening centuries it has had its ups and downs, including a period when it became in parts almost derelict, but it has had its beneactors too - including Grimthorpe who partially rebuilt the Abbey in a completely different style. The result is a glorious hotch-potch of Norman, Gothic and Victorian architecture. Added to this there is a fine new Chapter House, and excellent example of 20th Century ecclesiastical architecture.
The Abbey contains many fine works of art, including brasses of Thomas de la Mare, former Abbot, and of course the Shrine of St Alban, Britain's first Christian martyr. And it is the last resting place of Lord (Robert) Runcie, former Bishop of St Albans and latterly Archbishop of Canterbury. Other ecclesiastical residents in recent years have included Canon Eric James, honorary director of Christian Action and a former chaplain to Her Majesty the Queen; Colin Slee, now Dean of Southwark; and Sally Booth-Clibborn, a descendant of General Booth, who was the Dean's administrator for many years.
But the history is only a small part of it. The Abbey is a vibrant social and musical centre, a venue for concerts, for the world-renowned International Organ Festival, and the home of a very fine choir whose past choirmasters include Stephen Darlington, Peter Hurford (arguably the wor;d's best player of Bach on the organ) and now Barry Rose. And it has a real family atmosphere where all feel part from the greatest to the smallest (probably Babs Yule, the diminuitive figure known to all at the Abbey and the Abbey Theatre).
It is also attached to St Albans School, which can trace its roots back to a foundation in 948 AD which must surely make it one of the oldest surviving schools in the world. Famous alumni include Stephen Hawking.
The bells of St Albans are also justly famous, one of them having been originally cast in 1290, but most of them being from the 17th Century. In 1765 a carillon was endowed by the first Earl Spencer, and this is till in the bell tower although it is now awaiting restoration. I believe it worked as little as ten or fifteen years ago, as the present electrically-driven carillon only plays the Westminster chmes on the quarter-hour, and I distinctly remember a much fuller chime on the hour from my schooldays in the 1980s.
It is reputed to have the longest nave in Britain, and it is certainly an impressively long building stretching 1/6 mile from end to end. The scale of the building reflects the historical importance of the town as a trading point, at one time the first major stop going North from London. Until comparatively recently St Albans was home to the busiest road junction in Britain, the meeting place of the A1, A5 and A6, and was the original starting point of the M1 (this stretch is now the M10).
If you visit St Albans - and I urge you to do so - I recommend that you visit on a day when there is a choral Evensong, preferably on a summer's evening when you can listen to the choir as you watch the sun setting behind the great West window. Or perhaps on the day of an organ recital, when the superb Harrison commissioned by Peter Hurford will be put through its formidable paces.
To relax aftewards you can visit one of the dozens of fine pubs within walking distance of the Abbey, in one of which, the Farriers' Arms, the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) was allegedly founded.
My great friend Mike French, who was best man at my wedding, was himself married at St Albans Abbey. After the ceremony he and his bride were processed down the aisle by two morris sides, the Cottonmill Clog and the Iffy Morris. Quite what the Dean thought of this history doesn't recall.
The present building was started in 1077, but is set on the site of a much older church. In the intervening centuries it has had its ups and downs, including a period when it became in parts almost derelict, but it has had its beneactors too - including Grimthorpe who partially rebuilt the Abbey in a completely different style. The result is a glorious hotch-potch of Norman, Gothic and Victorian architecture. Added to this there is a fine new Chapter House, and excellent example of 20th Century ecclesiastical architecture.
The Abbey contains many fine works of art, including brasses of Thomas de la Mare, former Abbot, and of course the Shrine of St Alban, Britain's first Christian martyr. And it is the last resting place of Lord (Robert) Runcie, former Bishop of St Albans and latterly Archbishop of Canterbury. Other ecclesiastical residents in recent years have included Canon Eric James, honorary director of Christian Action and a former chaplain to Her Majesty the Queen; Colin Slee, now Dean of Southwark; and Sally Booth-Clibborn, a descendant of General Booth, who was the Dean's administrator for many years.
But the history is only a small part of it. The Abbey is a vibrant social and musical centre, a venue for concerts, for the world-renowned International Organ Festival, and the home of a very fine choir whose past choirmasters include Stephen Darlington, Peter Hurford (arguably the wor;d's best player of Bach on the organ) and now Barry Rose. And it has a real family atmosphere where all feel part from the greatest to the smallest (probably Babs Yule, the diminuitive figure known to all at the Abbey and the Abbey Theatre).
It is also attached to St Albans School, which can trace its roots back to a foundation in 948 AD which must surely make it one of the oldest surviving schools in the world. Famous alumni include Stephen Hawking.
The bells of St Albans are also justly famous, one of them having been originally cast in 1290, but most of them being from the 17th Century. In 1765 a carillon was endowed by the first Earl Spencer, and this is till in the bell tower although it is now awaiting restoration. I believe it worked as little as ten or fifteen years ago, as the present electrically-driven carillon only plays the Westminster chmes on the quarter-hour, and I distinctly remember a much fuller chime on the hour from my schooldays in the 1980s.
It is reputed to have the longest nave in Britain, and it is certainly an impressively long building stretching 1/6 mile from end to end. The scale of the building reflects the historical importance of the town as a trading point, at one time the first major stop going North from London. Until comparatively recently St Albans was home to the busiest road junction in Britain, the meeting place of the A1, A5 and A6, and was the original starting point of the M1 (this stretch is now the M10).
If you visit St Albans - and I urge you to do so - I recommend that you visit on a day when there is a choral Evensong, preferably on a summer's evening when you can listen to the choir as you watch the sun setting behind the great West window. Or perhaps on the day of an organ recital, when the superb Harrison commissioned by Peter Hurford will be put through its formidable paces.
To relax aftewards you can visit one of the dozens of fine pubs within walking distance of the Abbey, in one of which, the Farriers' Arms, the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) was allegedly founded.
My great friend Mike French, who was best man at my wedding, was himself married at St Albans Abbey. After the ceremony he and his bride were processed down the aisle by two morris sides, the Cottonmill Clog and the Iffy Morris. Quite what the Dean thought of this history doesn't recall.
