Ireland - My view
Created | Updated Jan 25, 2005
From time to time I get very fed up with Ireland in general, it's too windy or it's too cold, it's raining all the time or if not there is that annoying glare that happens when it's not quite cloudy and not quite sunny.
These things get me down and I convince myself that when I finish college I am never coming back here.
But then a day like today happens.
I had decided last night that I would get up at first light in search of waves.
I am a surfer.
I think this one sentence defines a person more than anything else a person could say. It is all encompassing. Nothing else defines such a large amount of people. This sentence brings to mind a multitude of visions.
For most, dare I say all, surfers catching another wave is the driving force in their life. They will be interested in a large variety of other things, things which define the individual. But the over-riding interest will be
"When am I going to get my next wave?"
This is the feeling I went to sleep with last night, and the feeling with which I awoke this morning.
At half seven my alarm went off. I grogily turned over and fumbled for the source of this annoyance (even surfers get comfy in their beds). I was convinced that after making the hour long trip to the beach I would find it too windy or too small. Not one to be dragged down by negative thoughts I managed to rouse myself, had two bowls of cornflakes, packed my wetsuit, my booties, my gloves, my hood and my towel into the back of the car along with my board. I set off just before sunrise when the sky is just getting bright.
This morning the sky was an over-riding very dark blue, but there was a band of red light that was brightest where the new day's sun was creeping over the horizon, right around to the other side of my view of the earth.
There were few cars on the road as I started my journey and these few gradualy thinned out to none as I got closer to the coast.
For the majority of this country, the coast, during these winter mornings, holds no attraction. With its bitingly cold winds coming in off of the Atlantic usually accompanied by the rains making their first landfall after their trek across the ocean.
This morning was different though. Last night the sky had cleared in the evening to show a beautifully bright full moon and the achingly distant stars. This had lead to a frost settling during the night and it was through this thawing frost that I drove.
And it was through this thawing frost that I got to see why people do stay in this country, it was truly beautiful. I hadn't been filled with such happiness in a long time.
It is strange though that we get pleasure from death. One of the standout images that I have after this mornings drive is looking at the brightening through the bare branches of the trees that lined the road.
It was these leafless branches framing the sky that made it so memorable. I deeply regret not bringing my camera.
After the most pleasent drive of my life I arrived at my destination, Lehinch.
Much to my disappointment my earlier negative thoughts were realised.
The waves, although clean, were too small to be of any interest to me.
It is a sad thing to say that clean waves were of no interest to me. But after ten years of surfing I needed bigger waves to get my adrenaline pumping in the same way it did on my first wave.
I could see that there was swell further out in the bay so decided to try another break close by. After the ten minute drive up along the hill that seperated Liscannor Bay from my newest goal I set eyes upon, what is to me the defining image of why people, including myself, stay in this country.
The sun had been racing me as I climbed the hill and its rays broke the crest of the hill at the same moment as I did.
I got to see the entire valley lit up in the most astounding way. Anyone who knows north Co.Clare will know of the Burren, it is a vast area of limestone rock that has been exposed to the elements for millenia. It was this view I got to see. Rows and rows of fields interspersed with rocks and boulders of various shapes and sizes bordered on the east by the Burren and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. It was truly amazing and I am convinced it is one memory I am not likely to forget.
These things get me down and I convince myself that when I finish college I am never coming back here.
But then a day like today happens.
I had decided last night that I would get up at first light in search of waves.
I am a surfer.
I think this one sentence defines a person more than anything else a person could say. It is all encompassing. Nothing else defines such a large amount of people. This sentence brings to mind a multitude of visions.
For most, dare I say all, surfers catching another wave is the driving force in their life. They will be interested in a large variety of other things, things which define the individual. But the over-riding interest will be
"When am I going to get my next wave?"
This is the feeling I went to sleep with last night, and the feeling with which I awoke this morning.
At half seven my alarm went off. I grogily turned over and fumbled for the source of this annoyance (even surfers get comfy in their beds). I was convinced that after making the hour long trip to the beach I would find it too windy or too small. Not one to be dragged down by negative thoughts I managed to rouse myself, had two bowls of cornflakes, packed my wetsuit, my booties, my gloves, my hood and my towel into the back of the car along with my board. I set off just before sunrise when the sky is just getting bright.
This morning the sky was an over-riding very dark blue, but there was a band of red light that was brightest where the new day's sun was creeping over the horizon, right around to the other side of my view of the earth.
There were few cars on the road as I started my journey and these few gradualy thinned out to none as I got closer to the coast.
For the majority of this country, the coast, during these winter mornings, holds no attraction. With its bitingly cold winds coming in off of the Atlantic usually accompanied by the rains making their first landfall after their trek across the ocean.
This morning was different though. Last night the sky had cleared in the evening to show a beautifully bright full moon and the achingly distant stars. This had lead to a frost settling during the night and it was through this thawing frost that I drove.
And it was through this thawing frost that I got to see why people do stay in this country, it was truly beautiful. I hadn't been filled with such happiness in a long time.
It is strange though that we get pleasure from death. One of the standout images that I have after this mornings drive is looking at the brightening through the bare branches of the trees that lined the road.
It was these leafless branches framing the sky that made it so memorable. I deeply regret not bringing my camera.
After the most pleasent drive of my life I arrived at my destination, Lehinch.
Much to my disappointment my earlier negative thoughts were realised.
The waves, although clean, were too small to be of any interest to me.
It is a sad thing to say that clean waves were of no interest to me. But after ten years of surfing I needed bigger waves to get my adrenaline pumping in the same way it did on my first wave.
I could see that there was swell further out in the bay so decided to try another break close by. After the ten minute drive up along the hill that seperated Liscannor Bay from my newest goal I set eyes upon, what is to me the defining image of why people, including myself, stay in this country.
The sun had been racing me as I climbed the hill and its rays broke the crest of the hill at the same moment as I did.
I got to see the entire valley lit up in the most astounding way. Anyone who knows north Co.Clare will know of the Burren, it is a vast area of limestone rock that has been exposed to the elements for millenia. It was this view I got to see. Rows and rows of fields interspersed with rocks and boulders of various shapes and sizes bordered on the east by the Burren and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. It was truly amazing and I am convinced it is one memory I am not likely to forget.
