It's autumn again and the grass cutting season is almost ending. However, there are still odd jobs which you can do to get the most out of your lawn and keep it looking in tiptop condition, ready for next year.

There may be a couple more cuts you can get in before the end of autumn, but that just depends on how kind the weather is to us. It is important to raise the cutter height and, if the lawn is wet, use a brush to sweep off any rain or dew. It is important to leave your lawn slightly longer for the winter to protect it and to give it the best possible start next spring. Of course, if the lawn is frosty or very wet, then don’t cut, because it could turn to mud when mowing.

Right, other jobs which would benefit your lawn at this time of year:

Now is the ideal time to apply an Autumn Compound Lawn Fertilizer. This usually consists of a powder-type constituency which is best applied by hand (wearing gloves and throughly washing your hands afterwards though). There are various types of applicators on the market now, which can be used to apply lawn fertilizers, but the hand application method is still favoured by many gardeners, including myself.

The fertilizer is available at most garden centres and contains a nutrient called 'Phosphates', which increases the strength of the root system, promoting earlier growth, resulting in a much healthier lawn next year.

Pick a showery day - but don't apply in heavy rain, otherwise your neighbours will start talking! It is usually best to apply the fertilizer by going up and down the lawn first, sprinkling a handful approximately per square metre, then going crossways across the lawn using the same method. It doesn't have to be exact because it takes time to break down and release the supply of nutrients. If, after a couple of days of applying, you are fortunate enough not to have had any rain for these days, then it is best to water the treated area thoroughly.

By applying fertilizer at this time of year, it will benefit the lawn in case we have a drought in the next growing year, because it strengthens the roots and gives the lawn a boost.

It is very important from now onwards to keep brushing those leaves off your lawn. I know it is a pain and much hard work but it will keep your lawn happy for the next season. There is an easier way, and that is with a garden vac. I haven’t got one, but on days when I spend the morning sweeping up, and within an hour a gust of wind comes and blows another lot onto my lawn, I wish I invested in one. It's one of those things which are on the 'to do' list, but that is where it stays.

Anyway, it is beneficial to the lawn to spend a bit of time sweeping the leaves up because the wet, moist leaves cause earth worm casts which do more harm than good. The type of earthworm that creates these casts are called ‘Allolobophora Species’. The casts are actually worm poo, but is not smelly but full of nutrients. However, these casts are slippery and unsightly, but because of the nutrients in these casts, it encourages weeds to develop in the lawn and grow, which can create more work in eradicating the weeds. It is usually best to sweep them away using a besom broom which can also work better than a normal broom for your leaves.

This is a task which in my opinion, should only be done about once every 3 years or if your lawn is showing signs of compaction. If your lawn gets a lot of heavy traffic on it and is showing signs of water-logging after rain, or much trailing moss, then it is worth spending the time and aerating it. I know, this could be rather difficult if your lawn is very big, but perhaps in that case, do a section at a time each year and notice the difference compared to the bits you haven’t done.

It is best to spike it with a device called a 'Hollow-Tine Fork' which looks more like an alien pogo stick. I know, many people use a normal garden fork but it doesn’t get down to the 4-5 inches like a Hollow-Tine Fork does.

Aerating is usually done to allow oxygen into the soil and improve drainage of the soil. I know that September is usually the best month to tackle this type of job, but it can still be successfully done in October because the lawn is still moist and warm in most parts of the country.

If you are going to aerate, then it is best to top-dress it afterwards by using a mixture of loam, sand and peat which can be made up by yourself from fertilizers available from your garden centre.

Top-dress is usually mixed up according to the type of soil you have.

• 1 part peat
• 2 parts loam
• 4 parts sand.

• 4 parts loam.
• 2 parts sand
• 1 part peat.

• 2 parts peat
• 4 parts loam
• 1 part sand.

I know what you are saying: 'but I don’t want to use peat!'. If this is the case, and, like myself, you are 'peat free', then an alternative is well rotted leaf mould which can be made by yourself from the leaves bin. Avoid compost because of weed seeds. You can use ordinary garden soil, passed through a sieve, as your loam (that's if your soil is loamy, of course). The sand must be fine and 'lime free' without any added grit.

Spread your finely made fertilizer (about 3lb per square yard) in small heaps around your lawn. Then use the back of a rake or a birch broom to spread it over your lawn and into the holes that have been made when aerated. If there is still some on the foliage of the grass afterwards, brush it in with a broom.

Top dressing improves drainage, water holding capacity during drought conditions, and gives the lawn a more healthy look to it.

September is usually the best time to scarify, but the task can still be completed in October. The best tool to use is the Spring-Tine Rake which will remove thatch and moss from your lawn.

Thatch is a fibrous material which grows along the surface and is often matted and tangled in between the grass. It grows in very acid and poorly drained soils. Thatch can be raked out, but if there is a lot of it, then it is definitely worth aerating and applying your top dressing material. If you have a very large lawn with a lot of thatch, then a powered scarifier might be worth hiring from a machinery dealer.

October is the ideal time for any lawn repairs. It is too late for reseeding, but the most ideal time for repairing those bare patches and damaged areas of your lawn.

It is a fairly easy procedure, but the key is to make sure that the turf is good quality without any weeds or diseased material in it.

First, cut out the damaged area into a square, revealing the bare soil underneath. Dig some compost into the soil and tickle it over with a small hand fork or trowel. Cut the turf to fit and make adjustments to make sure that the soil is level and that there are no bumps or lumps in the turf before tapping down gently with a plank of water and sledge hammer. Water by using a fine rose on the end of your watering can and fill any gaps with soil.

If there are any bumps in your lawn that you would like to even out then cut around the bump, again into a shape of a square and down the middle so you can fold the turf back revealing the soil underneath. Add/remove soil so it is level, tapping the soil down gently before refolding the turf back over. Tap down gentle and water in. Easy!

Before putting the lawn mower away for the winter it is best to throughly clean the blades and use a wire brush to get rid of any rust. Then it is best to get an oily rag to go over the blades to protect them throughout the winter. Don’t stand your mower on a concrete floor because it may cause condensation. The best way is to stand it on wood or carpet and cover the mower with a sheet to protect it in the shed or garage from damage and condensation.

If your mower is petrol, then this needs to be drained away along with the oil for the winter. Please refer to your instruction manual for details on how to do this as each mower is different. It is also worth cleaning and adjusting the gap of the spark plug ready for next year.

Lawn weeds are best dug out by hand or a selective weed killer applied. This is best done when the weeds are actively growing, which is usually April time.

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