Calangute is a terribly touristy place, but it does have some good places to go for a drink. As for how to get there, you'll have to ask around, as there aren't any street signs in the village.

One of them is called The Restaurant at the End of the Universe, which is not very original*. However, this restaurant has some particular benefits, including:

• The owners are science fiction fans. Books are available to read for free by authors Douglas Adams, Terry Pratchett and others.

• They offer an interpretation of a Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster (containing some ingredients which are only found in India). Despite the hazardous results after drinking several, it is legal. But probably only in India.

• The restaurant does great food.

• And the music's good.

After a couple of hours at The Restaurant at the End of the Universe, ask around for The Mango Bongo Bar, which is about 100 metres from the beach. They play reggae music for nearly all of the 22 hours they are open (the barkeeper just sleeps two hours behind the bar).

Next day settle down in a place called Vrundavan to recover. It serves the best grilled kingfish you can imagine.