The Brezel Bub - selling pretzels in Frankfurt am Main
Created | Updated Jan 20, 2011
The soft pretzel, soaked in a solution of dissolved baking soda and sprinkled with coarse salt grains, is considered a staple food by many families in the south of
Germany. Children as young as toddlers can be seen sucking on or chewing a soft pretzel, and it's not surprising that pretzel vendors are to be found throughout the region.
The pretzel boy, or Brezel Bub as he is known to the locals in
Frankfurt, is identifiable with the town as are the Ebbelwei-Express, Handkäs mit
Musik1 and
its Green
Sauce.
He is a well-known sight at local festivals, in pubs, taverns and wine
bars, going around and ringing the bell on his large wicker basket to draw the attention of the
pub-goers to his fresh soft pretzels.
History
Little is known about the origins of this profession, although it
probably has a very long tradition, dating back to the Middle Ages.
It is unknown where the pretzel comes from, and who was the first to give it
a bath in its baking soda solution or even why. Most sources agree that the first pretzels were made by
monks in the 7th century. Whether baked as a meal for Lent or as communion bread, the purpose is veiled as much in the mists of time as everything else
about its
origins. However, pretzels most probably got their German name of Brezel
(old German:
Brezitella) after the Latin name brachius, which means 'arm',
because the pretzel resembles arms crossed in prayer. Due to the pretzel's
religious background and the resulting popularity of it, it
didn't take too long until the pretzel became the symbol of the guild of
bakers. The first documented pretzel-sign
for a bakery dates back to 1111 AD.
The Early Times
In the beginning, bakers used to go and sell their produce in the
streets and in
markets, or have children do it. Local
festivities such as fairs were another opportunity to sell pretzels; even in
winter, pretzel vendors were out and about, as this early picture (by Peter Fendi) from 1828 shows.
Until the late 1950s, Frankfurt's
drinking establishments didn't serve meals with the apple wine, so people either had to cater for themselves - or wait for the Brezel Bub to come
and sell his pretzels.
Modern Times
Although you can usually get a snack like
Handkäs mit Musik or potato salad with sausages nowadays, you
don't have to do without your pretzel to go with your apple wine or beer,
because the pretzel boy still comes around. During the years,
the range of products on offer has grown; recently, cheese sticks are even more
popular than the original pretzels. Prices range from € 1.10 to
€ 1.70, depending on
whether you buy a simple pretzel or a stick with ham and cheese or onions
and cheese.
At the time of writing, there are 16 pretzel 'boys' in Frankfurt, two
women and 14 men. They each have their own area and, according to them, rivalry
is not a problem. They all have the required trade licence and tax number,
as well as a health certificate. They are self-organised and manage to serve
up to 40 pubs and taverns in one evening, selling more than 150 items per
night. It is up to the pub owner whether or not to allow them access. Some
refuse it; some only allow it after the kitchen closes at 11.00pm, but
most have a good relationship with 'their' Brezel Bub, as do the regulars.
Let's hope that the Brezel Bubs will still roam the pubs in years to
come.
onions, served with a slice of rye bread and butter.