The Yorkshire Dales - Heaven on Earth?
Created | Updated Apr 10, 2007
Ah the yorkshire dales. Truly England's greenest hills. A place to spark fervent jingoism in even the most cynical of englishmen. Where life is affirmed; where the land is precious and the pubs welcoming, the ale like nectar, and where the people stroll meaningfully in a proud but friendly way, safe and satisfied in the knowledge that they could well have a quality of life equal to anyone. For anyone unlucky enough not to have visited this wonderful area the text below may explain a little about it.
Yorkshire
As its name suggests the dales are situated in Yorkshire, which is by far England's largest and most diverse county. Despite its reputation in the south and other such distant lands, it is a county with a deep and abiding sense of culture; one that is a proud producer of many fine people and goods. Nowhere is this more true than in the dales.
Dales
The term dales refers to the valleys (rather than their corresponding hills) that stretch accross central northern england from the border of Lancashire in the west to the flat 'vale of york' in the east. Overall it covers 1762 square kilometres and a large area of the 'backbone of england'; The Pennines. Its highest peak is Whernside which stands at 736 metres above sea level. The west of the dales is made up of a number of such typically pennine hills. However the area's beauty mainly lies in the subtle rolling peaks that stretch out into the east and provide a contained, comforting ambience and ever changing scenery. The hills provide a stunning vista; but the farms, towns and villages that weave their way around them contain their substance and harner a way of life that has existed for millenia. It is thus that the valleys' importance are reflected in the addage 'The Dales'. It is this 'real' way of life that gives the dales their unique charm and character. Despite a large and growing number of tourists, a visit to the dales is a glimpse into a community with real industry and self sufficience. If northern english National Parks where a rock band the flashy, charismatic Lake District may be the frontman, whereas the Dales would be lead guitar; equally enigmatic, but with far more genuine talent. (To further this analogy the North York Moors would be the dark, brooding bassist, leaving the Peak District as the reliable but largely forgotten drummer)
National Park
In 1945 John Downer wrote an influential report called "National Parks in England and Wales". He said that a National Park is "… an extensive area of beautiful and relatively wild country in which, for the nation's benefit and by appropriate national decision and action:
- access and facilities for open-air enjoyment are amply provided;
- wildlife and buildings and places of architectural and historic interest are suitably protected;
- established farming use is effectively maintained."
Six years later the Peak District became the first national park. The Yorkshire Dales was given national park staus in 1954. It is a scheme funded by central government, and one that now works alongside numerous other global, and particularly European conservation schemes. There are now 14 national parks in Britain with a number of possible additions in the pipeline. The advantages to the particular areas gaining national park status are significant and widespread. It is without doubt that a large number animal species have been saved as a result of the initiative (for example the iconic red squirrel), along with countless villages, landscapes and communties. Much of the work that goes on within a national park is carried out by the national trust, an organisation of immense importance and integrity, and one that is largely funded through charity. To find out more visit their website. HREF="www.nationalparks.gov.uk"
Natural History
Like much of the English landscape the dales were largely formed in and by the ice age. Glaciers slid from the arctic and gouged hills, valleys, bumps and bruises all over the north of England. The underlying rock had originally been formed on the sea bed over millions of years and is as such fairly (to use a yorkshire phrase) 'higgaldy piggaldy'. Much of the dales, particularly in the south west, is made up of a combination of slate and limestone. The hardy slate juts out in faults around the more easily eroded limestone to provide probably the most spectacular features in the dales (for example perregrin festooned Malham Cove), and with them a geologist's and rock climber's paradise. From this canvas the scenery has developed alongside man and his agricultural achievements. The result is a harmonious existence of nature and society as modest hills and rivers provide the venue for villages, farms and historical buildings.
Life
The dales is home to a huge variety of plant life and animal life, some of which rely on its conservation for their survival. Birds are prominent in the 'wildlife' category, as hundreds of species continually retire to dales tranquility; notably grouse, skylark and lapwing. During spring a chorus of birdsong erupts as hundreds of species announce the arrival of the sun and with it the mating season. To coincide with this, spring heralds the birth of thousands of fresh faced and enthusiastic lambs, quite literally bounding all over the place. With less cute factor but of equal importance, the dales are vital for the survival of countless types of fauna as the lightly grazed, flower heavy meadows remain utterly untouched and unchanged. Indeed it is during spring that the Dales is arguably at its best as life seems to postively hum and spring up everywhere.
Society
People have lived in the Yorkshire Dales for 11,000 years and as stated above, it contains a number of important working industries. Agriculture, in particular sheep farming, is the most notable and visible trade. Sheep though are sencondary to horses, and the historic racing and hunting culture is evident everywhere. Food production is very important with many conserves, pastries, sausages and all sorts of other foodstuffs bearing the name of a particular dale or town. Brewing is also notewrothy as real ale holds an esteemed position in dales culture. There are a large number of small breweries and significant, large scale operations in Masham, home to both the Theakston's and Black Sheep breweries. As a consequence of these gastronomic pursuits, catering creates a large number of jobs and revenue with pubs on every turn, and a growing variety of restaurants appearing in the villages. Of course tourism also plays its part as 9 million people visit every year.
In recent years the people native to The Yorkshire Dales have found that rising house prices have become an ever growing hurdle in keeping communities together. The dales is within easy reach of a number of significant towns and cities. Leeds is situated at its south east whilst the affluent areas of York, Harrogate, Knaresborough and Richmond are also situated to the east. To the west, over the pennines, lie a number of highly populated Lancashire towns and cities, with Greater Manchester being just about within reach, at about a 2 hour drive away. Commuters from such localities, and people with second homes are begining to make up an escalating percentage of the dales' population. As tourism hit a plateau years ago, well before serenity and tranquility was put in danger, it is perhaps this change in demographic that is the biggest 'threat' to the society and equilibrium of this historic area.
What to do?
There is a plethera of things to see and do in and around the Yorkshire Dales. Walking is the main attraction and can be fulfilling absolutely anywhere within the national park. Less environmentally friendly but equally enjoyable is a driving tour. The ever changing landscape and numerous nooks and crannies that can be found by simply following country lanes will provide a day packed with breathtaking views and memories. For the historian there are a number of internationally recognised treasures. Skipton, Richmond and Middleham Castles are 3 of the best examples of medieval architecture and life in England, and thus the world. The magnificent Bolton Abbey is one of several gothic buildings standing at almost 1000 years old. The history and beauty of these sites is tangible and quite humbling. A brief stint in many of the countless pubs is sure compensate for being humbled however. As a Yorkshireman once so astutely said to me 'a walk without a pint or a brew at the end is like sex without the climax'. As already stated the dales are a wildlife lovers' paradise as well as a mecca for anyone with a passing interest in horses. Other curiosities include the Settle Carlisle Railway, The Embsay and Bolton Abbey Steam Railway, Aysgarth Falls, The Valley of Desolation, The Dales Countryside Museum, The Forbidden Corner and a plethera of other small museums, historical sites and natural marvels. Ultimately however it is the charm of the place itself that wins through and any visitor will find that time can be passed blissfully by loitering and wandering amongst the villages and hills that constitute the piece of English paradise that is the Yorkshire Dales.
