Big cities that are full of captains of industry necessarily have restaurants that are very expensive and don't disappoint (they also have quite a few very expensive places that disappoint badly). The upside is that for plebs like me, there are lots of places to go for a special night out. The downside is, that when you get there, you are the only table spending your own money. It does alter the atmosphere.

Patterson's is quite skilled in allowing both groups to get along. It is quite buzzy, despite the suits, in a well organised small space. Like many London based family run, exclusive, very expensive places, if you book carefully you can get very substantial discounts on the food. It remains a special night out, but one that costs about half the price being charged to the corporate cards at the next table.

For our first night at Patterson's (we have been back since), we had a couple of friends in London who had not seen each other (or us) in years, making the night a bit of a reunion. For one, it was the last night of a long, travelling holiday and a chance to splash out after being careful counting pennies, for the others they were exploring the UK wondering if they might move over.

We all trooped in, had our hats, coats and scarves taken ceremoniously at the door and seated in each others' candle lit presence. The menu is small, vaguely French with a couple of fish, vegetarian and meat options. The chef automatically puts vegies on your plate, thank goodness, so that you don't have to order them separately: the meal is a fully conceived creation. However, it is also very, very rich so the rule of thumb is: don't over order.

There are good things to be said about the flavours. For instance, the steak comes on a wooden trencher with chunky chips that taste gently of goose fat and there is also a well thought through salad. Whatever you order is lovely and you would be happy to come back another day.

The staff will help you through the very comprehensive wine list – they seem to have as good an eye for your budget as they do for matching the food and the wine. Interestingly, they picked out a moderately priced (for them) £40 Tasmanian Pinot Noir because of its rounded flavours and tannin backbone, rather than some of the far more expensive French wines. I was more than happy to agree.

The service is not magical but is perfectly fine. Some people may prefer to have automatons serving them but I am nearly always happy with real people. Patterson's is a good balance between top-end industrial and ordinary sorts, in its own style and in its customers.

Getting There: Get to London – it is behind St George's Hannover Square.

Who should eat there: people with expense accounts and me!

Dining Style: fine dining.

Price: Allow £50pp including wine, depending on how you book.

Quality: Very good.

Would I go Back: Yes - and I have.

Eating Out with Phoenician Trader Archive

Phoenician Trader

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