Pigeon can be a tricky bird to cook and eat; it is easy to overcook and dry it out. This simple, economical recipe, using only the breasts, is good as a lunch for two people or a starter for four.

Woodpigeon, a Game Bird

Pigeons¹ are usually sourced through game dealers. They do not have a season like some other game birds, such as pheasant or grouse, but are shot throughout the year by farmers who wish to protect their field crops from the bird's hungry beaks. You can cook woodpigeon in many ways, though the recipe that most often springs to mind is pigeon pie. Many woodpigeon recipes team leeks with this game bird.

Some game dealers will supply just the breasts; but, if you have whole bird you can remove the breasts easily without the need for plucking by simply slitting the skin down the breast bone and pulling them off the carcass. It is also possible to buy 'oven ready' pigeon, in which case the remains of the birds can be used as the basis for a stock - stew, strain and freeze until needed. Waste not, want not.

Risotto

The accompanying risotto is a variation on the traditional Italian dish of rice cooked with a sofrito² of vegetables, wine, stock and plenty of grated parmesan. It uses leek in the place of onions, and combined with the pigeon can be seen as a meal using mainly locally obtained ingredients³, if you are living in the UK.

There are many variations and opinions on cooking a risotto, and many other rice recipes. Parmesan is usually considered an absolute must to add to any risotto, due to the presence of the magic 'fifth flavour' ingredient umami, which imparts a delicious flavour to any food. You may add as much Parmesan to this recipe as your purse allows.

Leeks

Leeks are a staple of British winter food. They are also one of the Welsh emblems, together with the daffodil and the dragon. Not favoured by everyone, they can be tough, tasteless or lacking in decent texture. At worst they can suffer from all these three problems.

So, how to enjoy eating leeks? Choose fresh, tender, small sized ones. If possible grow leeks yourself (they are quite easy to grow) or buy them from a local market. Avoid old, large prepacked leeks.

The Recipe

Ingredients:

For the risotto:

• 1 medium leek
• 150g risotto rice
• 10g butter or 10ml oil
• 150ml medium dry white wine, or very dry Vermouth
• 500ml light chicken stock⁴ kept very hot

For the pigeon:

• a few sprigs of fresh thyme
• 4 pigeon breasts
• 1 small shallot, thinly sliced
• 10g butter or 10ml oil
• 1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar

Method:

1. Thinly slice the leek and rinse thoroughly in fresh water to remove any traces of dirt and to separate the rings.
2. On a low heat melt the butter or heat the oil in a saucepan and stir in the leeks to coat them thoroughly. Gently fry the leek and, unless it is really young and tender, cover and steam for a minute or so until it is softened.
3. Add the rice and stir until coated with butter or oil.
4. Add the wine, turn up the heat and boil off the alcohol.
5. Reduce the heat to very low and add a ladleful of the very hot stock. Stir gently and continually with a non-metal spoon until the liquid is absorbed. Repeat with further ladles of the hot stock until the rice is cooked. Keep back a tablespoon or two of stock for the sauce. The rice should be creamy in texture.
6. Melt the second portion of butter in a small frying pan and quickly fry the thyme sprigs for a few seconds, remove them from the pan, drain and set aside. They should crisp up, if not fry them for a little bit longer.
7. Add the pigeon breasts to the pan and gently fry until browned on both sides. If you prefer your meat rare (recommended for this recipe) remove them from the pan, cover and keep warm, otherwise leave them in the pan.
8. Add the shallot and fry until lightly browned.
9. Dish up the risotto into warmed bowls.
10. Thinly slice the pigeon breasts across the grain and arrange on top of the risotto.
11. Deglaze the frying pan with Balsamic vinegar and reduce until slightly sticky. Add a little stock, stir, and spoon the sauce over the pigeon slices.
12. Garnish with the fried thyme sprigs.