Cambodia: Siem Reap
Created | Updated Jun 21, 2003
There are now many ways to travel from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap (the nearest town to Angkor Wat and the other temple complexes). The Express Boats no longer get shot at, and buses are a safe option. I did think about taking a boat ($25 one way) but they are so overloaded that the safest way of travelling is sitting outside; that would mean five hours travel up the Tonlé Sap River and Lake; in the beating sun. No thanks!
There used to be only one carrier that flew to Siem Reap; Royal Air Cambodge; but now there is competition. Recently Presidential Airways and Phnom Penh Airways have also started flghts.
Asking around it seemed that all of the companies have very similar prices, so I went to a travel agent and booked my flight. I booked with Phnom Penh Airways; the price being $105 (or $55 one way). At only twice the price of the boat I thought it was a bargain.
I told the receptionist at the Sunshine Hotel where I was going and she rang ahead to get me picked up by their sister hotel, the Golden Angkor.
My flight left at 7.00 so I left the hotel at 5.40 for a 6.00 check-in. Domestic departures is not very well sign posted, I turned left and ended up in International Departures; keep straight ahead. Also, after checking in, as you approach the departure lounge, there is a small inconspicuous booth. You have to pay $10 tax there, before entering the lounge.
We were led across the tarmac to our plane, a Russian built AN-24, a 52 seat coach with wings. I sat in a window seat to get a good view and was handed a sweet roll and a coke. Luckily the seat next to me was free as there were no fold down tables, which was awkward.
There was no demonstration of the safety equipment, just a muffled announcement in Khmer. Then the engines were switched on. As soon as the air conditioning came on, the cabin was filled with clouds of condensation. It was like being at a 1970's rock concert.
Finally, only seven minutes late, we began to move. The takeoff took so long that it seemed like the pilot had decided to drive all the way to Siem Reap; but we lurched into the air and were away.
We flew just to the west of the Tonlé Sap River, the flat countryside rolling away to the hills in the west (highest peak Phnom Aoral, 1813 metres). One of the hostesses took the free seat next to me and we chatted pleasantly about how lucky I was to be able to travel. The plane then cut across the southern part of the Tonlé Sap Lake. After only forty minutes in the air we were coming in to land.
Being near the door I was quickly off of the plane and across the tarmac. The exit from the Arrivals Building was crowded with touts for hotels, but, across their heads, I saw a young man with my name on a sign, so I went over to him. As we drove to the hotel he told me that the town was seven kilometres from the airport. There must be something magic about that number. For any distance above a comfortable walk, I was always quoted "seven kilometres"!
I was shown around the Golden Angkor Hotel and it seemed very nice, spacious and modern. My room was large and clean and this time had a window! Unfortunately the price was higher, $20 a night, but, as I am no longer a budget traveller, I thought "what the heck" and decided that I would stay.
I spent the day just wandering around Siem Reap. It's a small town, with a quiet atmosphere. A welcome change to the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh. Sitting in the shade I cooled down while drinking a water coconut and slurped up the immature 'jelly'.
In recent years there has been a lot of development of the tourist industry, which has lead to the construction of many new hotels and restaurants. Old establishments have also been given a new lease of life. For example, the Grand Hotel was taken over by the Raffles Group, based in Singapore. While the Grand is too expensive for all but the most well heeled tourist, the hotel also maintains the gardens in front of the building, a quiet, cool spot that anyone can enjoy.
Tourism is the main industry and, for those looking to travel onwards, the are a number of airline offices offering flights to a variety of destinations, such as Phuket, Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City.
The internet has finally arrived in Siem Reap, but, as phone calls to Phnom Penh cost almost as much as international calls, accessing the internet costs $8 an hour. Unless it is an emergency one would be better off waiting until reaching Phnom Penh or Bangkok.
In order to see all of the sites, one needs a guide, so I arranged with the hotel to hire a driver for three days. I thought that $20 a day was pretty reasonable and so arranged to meet the driver outside the hotel at 7.30 the next morning. It is possible to hire guides with motos, but that sounded too hot for me.
The driver, Hud, introduced himself and we set off towards Angkor which is (you've guessed it!) almost seven kilometres away from Siem Reap. We stopped on the way for me to buy my pass. Tickets cost $20 a day, $40 for three days, or $60 for a week. I bought a three day pass.
It is important that you keep your pass with you whenever you are at a monument site as there is a spot fine of $30 for anyone without a ticket. I had heard stories of guides asking for the tickets back when you leave, removing the day stamps with chemicals and then selling the ticket again. That is no longer possible as staff clip your ticket each day as you enter.
While tourism is obvously growing, there are enough sites to find yourself alone as you wander the ruins. The only time I felt that there was a crowd was at the summit of Phnom Bakheng at sundown.
On the first morning I clambered around the second most famous site, Angkor Thom which includes The Bayon, The Baphuon, The Royal Enclosure and Phimeanakas, the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of Elephants. By the end I was shattered; I'd rested a number of times, drunk plenty of water and had a water coconut, but it was time to go back to the hotel, shower and have lunch.
As we drove back to Angkor, I was struck once more by the fact that everyone in the country was affected by the Pol Pot era. Hud told me that he had no family. His father had been in the army and he and the rest of his family were killed by the Khmer Rouge when Hud was five. Hud has visited Tuol Sleng and found a photo of his father. He was number 224.
The afternoon was spent looking around the stunning temple of Angkor Wat, watching how the building seemed to change as the sun slowly slipped down to the horizon.
By the end of the day I was completely bushed; so, after cooling down in my room and taking a shower, I just went next door for a meal and then crashed out.
In the morning of my second day of looking around Angkor, I visited the Thommanon Temple, climbed Ta Keo and then wandered around Ta Prohm.
In the afternoon I visited Banteay Kdei and the Sras Srang then climbed Phnom Bakheng to watch the sun set over the Tonlé Sap Lake.
On my last day I travelled a little further afield. First of all we drove thirteen kilometres east along Route Six to see the main sites of the Roluos Group. First of all was Bakong, then Preah Ko, and finally the Lolei Temple.
After that we drove north for about thirty kilometres along the back roads to Banteay Srei. The site is about twenty one kilometres northeast of the Bayon, but worth the trip.
And so, having seen all of the most important sites in the area; all that remained was to pay my bill and to pack ready for an early start the next morning.
When I got to the airport there was a crowd of soldiers in their best uniforms and a band playing such Khmer standards as 'Oye Como Va' and 'Perhaps. Perhaps. Perhaps' very loud and very enthusiastically, for the visit of an Australian politician. A surreal way to leave.
There is a departure tax payable on leaving Siem Reap airport. It costs $4 for domestic flights and $8 for international flights.
Phnom Penh Airlines didn't arrive in Siem Reap until 8.03 (only seven minutes before it was due to leave). As I walked across the tarmac with one other passenger I was told that we would be flying via Battambang as there were some transit passengers, but that it would only take fifteen minutes. We took off fifteen minutes late and had a short hop (twenty minutes) to Cambodia's seond city. On landing the message came across the speaker that we should remain on the plane and would be on the ground for about twenty minutes. With the doors open and the power off it was hot and sweaty on the plane. Finally we got back in the air and I arrived in Phnom Penh an hour later than scheduled.
