Journal Entries

Bahrain - Ramadan

Posted Oct 31, 2006

October 12th 2006

I arrive during the latter part of Ramadan. Ramadan is considered the most blessed and spiritually beneficial month of the year. Eating, drinking, smoking and sexual intercourse are not permitted between dawn and sunset.

In Bahrain (where alcohol is allowed outside of Ramadan) they have always closed the hotel bars during Ramadan in the daytime - but for the last two years they have also decided to close them in the evenings. So at the moment it really is a dry state. Possibly not the best time for me to arrive, but I’m looking forward to seeing Ramadan in practice. Maybe I’m a glutton for punishment.

The coffee shops and the malls are also closed during the day throughout Ramadan - so at the moment there isn’t much for me to do until after sunset when everything (but the bars) re-opens.

I have no internet connection and this is driving me to distraction. Late afternoon James drives me over to one of the construction sites so that I am able to check my e-mails. As we drive across the city I can’t help but admire the sun in the sky. I don’t believe I’ve ever seen it looking quite so large, and it’s sitting so low in the sky that I almost feel I could reach out and touch it. It’s surrounded by a deep purple haze. What a wonderful sight it is to behold.

We arrive at site and one of the tea boys comes into the office and brings us coffee. Malesh is one of the many thousands of Indians working here. He’s from the south of India and has worked in Bahrain for four years. He tells me a little about his life in India and he shows me a photograph of his French girlfriend.

Tonight we walk over to the Al Seef mall. We do some shopping and then sit down and have coffee. This gives me the chance to people watch, a favourite hobby of mine. The Bahraini people in general seem rather laid back, and despite the women having their heads covered - they all look happy enough. I decide that perhaps the veil just stand out more within my own culture. Because everyone wears them here it just looks more natural. It doesn’t really matter about what I personally feel about women being veiled. That’s just the way it is here, but a little part of me can’t help but think that it’s a shame they have to hide such beauty.

I’m beginning to take more notice of the Abaya, the black gown they are all wearing. Some of them are very plain with thick black material but many of the younger women’s gowns are designed with very fine material, and many of the outfits have stunning silk designs on them. Some women have no hair showing whatsoever, some have a little, while others are showing quite a lot. Many of the women are wearing make-up and I begin to glimpse designer jeans beneath the gowns, designer shoes and handbags. Without doubt some of them are very beautiful, and some certainly know how to wear the gowns. They look stunning.

I notice that some of the men are very pale skinned and rather European looking; others are various shades darker, and quite African looking. I’m not sure that I could spot an Arab that wasn’t from Bahrain (although I expect the locals could) but I imagine some of the people milling around the mall are probably from other Arab states. I’m sure that I’m far more interested in looking at them than what they are in me. I could sit here for hours - but it’s time to head back home.

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Latest reply: Oct 31, 2006

Bahrain - through my eyes

Posted Oct 30, 2006

October 11th 2006

This morning I leave Norfolk behind. I’m heading for a new life in Bahrain, a small island in the Persian Gulf. At the moment it all seems a little surreal, and I’m finding it difficult to contemplate the reality of leaving my old life behind and taking on board the new life that awaits me.

As the plane lifts into the air I shed more than a few tears as I think about all the people that I love dearly and have left behind. I had very little sleep last night, so after a flight meal and a couple of glasses of wine I finally fall into an exhausted sleep.

Just over six hours later the plane touches down in Manama - the city I will be living in throughout my stay in the Middle East. I arrive with two scabby knees, due to a girly night out in the UK a few days before I left. Half a dozen of us hit the town, and the wine, laughter and dancing flowed endlessly. When we arrived home in the small hours of the morning I fell out of the taxi. No, I wasn’t totally intoxicated - although without doubt more than a little tipsy. This of course caused me to get the heel of my boot caught in the taxi door. Honest! Anyway, it was a very good night out, and I have the scars to prove it.

My boyfriend James is waiting at the terminal. As soon as we leave the airport and head into the warm night air I experience a good feeling about this country. A part of me already feels connected to Bahrain in some way, although I can’t really explain exactly what I mean by that statement.

I can’t wait to get back to the apartment to dispose of my suitcases. It’s now 10pm yet I want to be out there taking in the sights, sounds and smells. We live very close to the Seef Mall, the largest mall in Manama, so we head straight over there for a look around.

The Al Seef mall is one of Bahrain’s most popular complexes. It has more than 120 shops; many of them are top designer stores. The mall is thronging with people. I’d expected to feel a huge culture shock but much to my surprise there is very little. The typical Bahraini woman is wearing a long loose-fitting black gown called the Abaya. A few women are fully veiled but most local women cover their hair with a hijab (a headscarf).

Some of the local men are wearing western clothes (especially the younger ones) but many of them are wearing the summer thobe, a white loose, ankle length garment. On their heads they wear a square scarf, some are red and white checked while others are all white. Apparently there is no significance to what headscarf is worn; it’s more of a personal preference. The scarf is held in place by a thick, double black cord. I think the men look quite stunning in their robes.

Time to head back to the apartment. Quite a day!

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Latest reply: Oct 30, 2006


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