h2g2 The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy: Earth Edition

October 13th 2006

Until Ramadan is over there is little for me to do during the day. So I read, play music and relax. This evening we visit the Manama Souq. It’s a bustling marketplace located in the heart of the city, near Bab Al Bahrain. - the ‘gate of Bahrain’ that was built by the British in the 1940s.

The Souk is the biggest jewellery centre in Bahrain. Tonight the area is thronging with people, mostly Indians, but there are also local people, and people from neighbouring Gulf countries. The jewellery is beautiful, although some of it a little too ornate for my taste. Having said that I do appreciate all the work that has gone into crafting each delicate piece. There are dozens of side streets to wander, and I see shops selling spices, fabrics, soveneirs, perfumes, handicraft, designer copy handbags and more or less everything you could think of.

I notice the taxi drivers gathered together on the corners chatting and drinking tea as they wait for their fares. Traders stop us or shout out and ask us to look at their goods. A young Indian guy at a counter sells me a bracelet. It is not gold but it’s very pretty so I buy the matching earrings. He flatters me terribly (a good salesman I expect) and tells me he is from Bombay and has been in Bahrain for four years.

When we move to the next counter to buy perfume he shuts his counter down and appears at this one. He talks to me more and tells me what a spiritual country India is. I tell him I visited India in 1998 and how much I enjoyed my visit. As we leave he grabs my hand and informs me he will be waiting for me to come back. It makes me smile. James reckons I have some sort of affinity with Indians. I’ve certainly felt a thousand dark eyes on me tonight. Maybe it’s the blonde hair and the pale skin.

As we stroll past a café in a side street I see several older men sitting around smoking sheesta, a sweet tobacco that has the most wonderful aroma. The smell of spices drift across the area in the warm night air. There is something about this place, the hustle and bustle, the people, the excited voices and the sweet smells that makes me feel truly alive. It’s a good feeling - and I’m sure tthe souk is a place I will visit time and time again.

Sheesha. A987825.

Like being at home this is. Your descriptions bring it all back to life.

Try getting down to Exhibition.

And take in Adliya, behind the Ramada Hotel and along past Sheikh Ali's Ferrari Centre (prestige Italian motor cars) ideally on a Thursday night and on a night when the National Team play. The atmosphere is truly thrilling.

Hi there,

Thanks for your message. When were you here? I'd love to hear about it. I've just moved to Juffair, an area very close to the Grand Mosque and quite near to the Gulf and Ramada hotel. I have quite a story to tell about that too....

I really am enjoying it here.

We enjoyed Bahrain almost without reservation for about three years from 2001-2004. We lived in the heart of Adliya for the first 18 months and then moved down to Um Al Hassam for the next 18 months. I'd like to read your story about the Ramada ... We lived there for a fortnight.

Your writing is still shit hot I see........

this stuff rocks..... more, more more!

PS

James is pretty discerning!