Del Rio lies on the north side of the Rio Grande, about 250 kilometers west of San Antonio along US Highway 90. On his first visit, Fu-Manchu and his driver got as far as Knippa in the late afternoon when it had grown prematurely dark with the western horizon an evil blackness from north to south. Actually, Number Two driver got to the west of Knippa before the buffets of rain, wind, and dust convinced him to turn around and seek shelter.

Shelter in Knippa

Knippa is a one-horse town of a few buildings on the north side of the railroad tracks, reminiscent of those seen in a western moving-picture entertainment. Parked close to the wall on the lee side of the general store in shadow of the water tower, rain slashed down. Lighting flashed; thunder boomed. Fu-Manchu contemplated the prospect of being crushed by falling masonry, one of three choices the others being: get blown back to San Antonio like so much tumbleweed, or take cover in a ditch to be drowned by a flash flood or brained by blowing debris. Several tornadoes passed us by. Eventually, the rain eased and the sky lightened enough for us to proceed west.

Stop in Uvalde

At Uvalde, a few kilometers further on where large sections of the town were in darkness from destroyed power distribution, Number Two driver's bowels were in uproar. We stopped at a pizza parlour so that he could use the bathroom and Fu-Manchu took to the driving seat. We completed our journey in darkness at high speed, passing along the way some deer and smaller animals in the verge whose eyes reflected the light from our headlamps.

Aircraft Damaged

At Del Rio we later discovered that the violent weather had damaged eighty aircraft with grapeshot sized hail at Laughlin Air Force Base outside town. So, if all else fails in a storm, you can be pummelled to death by falling ice.

High-way to Del Rio

Instead of going by road, it is possible to fly into Del Rio International airport, but the runway cannot cope with heavy iron, being suitable for light twins only, such as the Beech Baron, or helicopters of the Border Patrol. From northeast Oklahoma to Del Rio by private aircraft it is an easy three and a half hours flight with none of the hurdling forced on the traveller that goes by commercial air transport, which requires five hours to San Antonio before beginning the two and a half hours drive west.

Abbreviated Name

Del Rio had its name nicked in 1833 from San Felipe Del Rio to its present form. Having dropped Saint Philip, Of the River must sound strange to Hispanic ears. Once a Spanish mission that was destroyed by Indians, it was rebuilt and developed into a border town that is now the northern distribution point of the trade route through Ciudad Acuña across the bridge in Mexico to the south.

Accomodation

Best hotel in town is the Ramada Inn where travellers in various businesses stay. Fu-Manchu made the mistake of asking for a room overlooking the pool in the courtyard, thinking that it would be quieter than an outside room with the road noise; a mistake because vacationers stay up all night drinking and splashing about in the pool.

Rooms are shabby though adequate. It took Fu-Manchu several minutes to locate the thermostat for the heating and cooling system; it can be found in the missile-launch console next to the bed — ultra hi-tech when it was installed twenty years ago, it doesn't control the lights as it was once intended to do. Every few minutes the cooling system fans started, then the cooling compressor kicked-in; fans and pumps roared to blow musty smelling cold air then dropped off-line with a bang. In the stunning silence Fu-Manchu could hear the sound of splashing and drunken laughter from the pool accompanied by noodling sexaphones from a radio. Fu-Manchu was able to sleep through the white noise of the cooling system but the half intelligable voices and music were an annoyance. Only on the last day of his stay did he notice the Musak speaker just outside the door of his room. Some business suites exist in another part of the complex away from the pool; enquire after them if you intend to stay.

Dining

You have no risk of starving in Del Rio for there are plenty of places where you can feed, but gourmands may think they have arrived in Hell.

Somerfield's

Somerfield's Restaurant is an integral part of the hotel. A buffet breakfast is served, but make sure you ask the front desk for a blue breakfast pass otherwise you have to pay extra. Joe the chef will cook omelettes to your order.

Julio's

Mi Casita was recommended as a good place to eat Mexican food. As it happened Fu-Manchu ate at Julio's Famous¹ Chips, a new establishment on the north side of the US90 between the air base and the town.

Not knowing what to eat for lunch, Fu-Manchu asked the girl behind the counter what was good. She indicated that everything was good, but had a preference for Tapatitos². Fu-Manchu ordered the Tapatitos; the girl asked him if he knew what it was; he said that he didn't; she asked what he would do if he didn't like it; he said that he would eat it anyway.

Tapatitos are thin strands of beef wrapped in something like a corn tortilla, resembling dowels about 1 centimeter in diameter by 15 centimeters long³. Several of these were provided accompanied by fermented cabbage, spicy beans, and spicy rice.

The girl asked if it was really good. Fu-Manchu said it was. However, it was a substantial lunch that should be washed down with some light beer, followed by a nap.

Avante

You can eat Italian food in reasonable surroundings at Avante, located down a side street east of Avenue-F, which is the main drag through the northern part of town where US90 and US277 join together to run north; there is a sign at the corner of Avenue-F and the street leading to Avante.

Where Fu-Manchu sat he got glimpses into the kitchen which appeared to be run by Mexicans, who did a good job of preparing Italian-style food. It made a change from meat and potatoes.

Nightlife

Next door to the Somerfield's Restaurant is the White Horse Bar where you can find the usual entertainment. A traveller in cardboard boxes was propping up the bar drinking beer with Crown Royal chasers; well lit, he talked of three or possibly thirty millions per annum in boxes manufactured south of the border; most likely it was thirty millions because Fu-Manchu was boggled by the number of boxes that translates to. Labour is cheap in Mexico where there are none of the impediments to business found in the United States of America such as labour laws, medical care, living wages, and pensions — we must have cheap boxes.

Downtown

Old part of Del Rio is south of the railway tracks on Main Street where there are cobbled roads and various touristy things to do and see.

Ciudad Acuña

Ciudad Acuña is a party town that thrives on the tourist trade as much as the business side of things. Driving your car across the border is inviting it to be stolen; most people park on the north side of the bridge and take a City Taxi. In Mexico expect to be accosted by all and sundry trying to pry dollars loose. Cheap food and expensive beer and liquor is the order of the day.

Boy's Town

A section of Acuña is referred to as Boy's Town. At the Hunter's Lodge there is entertainment where you can be the floor show if you let the girls have their way, in most cases not a pretty sight — the principal, not the girls. Around the barroom there are young girls auditing the action as part of their on-the-job-training. Tired of the Ramada Inn you can rent rooms at Hunter's Lodge with maid service included.

Beware

Watch your step in Acuña. Taxi drivers are aggressive and sometimes drunk. During Fu-Manchu's second visit to Del Rio, the flags at the air base were flying at half-mast one Monday morning and flying operations in abeyance. Enquiries revealed that three air force personnel and their Mexican driver had been killed in a head-on collision of their taxi with a truck or bus. Two of the pilots were going to graduate, the third had been washed-out of the programme.

Local Stories

A story that came Fu-Manchu's way concerned a man who travelled to Del Rio from farther west. On his way he took a shortcut through Mexico, forgetting that he had his firearms with him in his car. At some point he was stopped by Mexican border officials and searched. He is now enjoying an extended stay in a Mexican jail. Don't take weapons into Mexico, they don't like it.

Another time a fellow living in Del Rio went out in the morning on his way to work to discover that his truck had vanished. Some weeks later he was in Acuña where he found his truck parked on a street. He retrieved his spare key from its hiding place and drove his truck home.

Ethnic Distinctions

North of the border, Mexican-looking persons who are citizens of the USA prefer to be acknowledged as Mexican-American or Hispanic. Classification as Mexican is offensive and should be avoided. In general, the people of Del Rio, Texas, are friendly and polite.

Local Amenities

A public water park lies between US90 and the railroad track, fed by San Felipe Springs. It is well-used by the locals, especially when the air temperatures are around 38 degrees Centigrade.

Amistad National Recreation Area

Amistad National Recreation Area is located twenty kilometers north and east of Del Rio. It was created by an S-shaped dam built by the US and Mexican governments in partnership, hence the name Amistad⁴. The lake is very deep and the water remarkably clear.

Weather

Apart from tornados, weather is often clear and windy. Daytime temperatures in summer reach above 38 degrees Centigrade with low humidity which makes the air feel more comfortable if you can sit in the shade. Stepping out from an air conditioned building during the heat of the day feels like the hot air from the open door of a domestic oven.

Terrain

Terrain around Del Rio is chalky covered by cactus, live oak trees, and some other scrubby varieties that Fu-Manchu was unable to identify. Vistas are marred by utility poles, shanties, and junk. On the ground jackrabbits with black tails are common, as are squirrels, chipmunks, and snakes. In the air, black swallowtail butterflies, boat-tailed grackles, sparrows, starlings, morning doves, and turkey vultures.

Turkey vultures soar on the air currents singly or in flocks. When flocking there is usually something interestingly dead on the ground below. Apparently, turkey vultures have a keen sense of smell for fresh dead meat.

Healthcare

Reports indicate that healthcare is poor and that it is better not to be sick in Del Rio. Get to San Antonio for serious help. Acuña offers cheap dentistry: San Antonio is preferable.

Going Home

High-tailing it east back to San Antonio, Fu-Manchu discovered where plastic bags come from — they grow on trees around Del Rio. About forty minutes east of Del Rio there is a Border Patrol checkpoint where you should be prepared to present your papers and answer questions about your movements. And so a sojourn ends.