Lederhosen
Created | Updated Sep 3, 2009
A socio-historic treatise of the traditional costume of male Austrians and Bavarians
Lederhosen are leather shorts or breeches, often with braces, worn by boys and men especially in Austria and Bavaria. There is a widespread belief that Austrians and Bavarians wear lederhosen all year round, yet this is certainly not the case. Nevertheless the genuine mountain-dweller is proud of his unique traditional costume and considers lederhosen as a tribal sign and a virtual proof of his belonging. This article gives a brief overview of the historical development of the lederhosen, an explanation of the different parts of the leather trousers as well as a description of the various types. Finally, it focuses on the importance of lederhosen in the 21st Century.
The History of Lederhosen
The origin of lederhosen goes far back in history. It is verified that the leather trousers owe their position in the Austrian and Bavarian culture to a historical process beginning in the Rococo period. Topographical-statistical surveys of this time also contain information about numerous customs and mores. Therefore they supply us with valuable facts about the development of the local garments. In addition, numerous artists painted the traditional costume in the works which provides us with further information about lederhosen. It is important to mention that the spreading of the Alpine dress coincides with the Napoleonic Wars and the setting up of a new Austrian Empire. These two events emphasised the nationalistic aspect of the local garment and consequently influenced the development of lederhosen. In the following decades the ethnic dress became a standard component of national festivals and finally a national costume. Especially the costume of the hunters, short leather trousers with a short grey-green coat, became extremely fashionable. Folklore associations strengthened the awareness of lederhosen and the traditional costume was also adopted by the aristocracy: for instance, Emperor Franz Josef I loved wearing lederhosen and put them on at every suitable occasion during his stay in Bad Ischl, a little town in the Salzkammergut in Upper Austria. Since that time various types of lederhosen with buttons of deer horn, with or without suspenders and embroidery in traditional patterns have developed. After the First World War countless tourists bought lederhosen and wore them not only in their holiday villages but also in their home towns. As a result, the exceptional piece of leg clothing effected a general breakthrough. Furthermore, the successful operetta “White Horse Inn” took the lederhosen over the ocean to North America.
The Features of Lederhosen
All lederhosen share at least three typical features. Firstly, they are usually worn with suspenders. Nevertheless some Austrians and Bavarians prefer to wear their breeches without suspenders and take them off. In addition, a common characteristic of the leather trousers is the small pocket worked into the side seam of the right trouser leg. Originally the mountain-dwellers and hunters put a knife, spoon and fork into this obligatory pocket. Moreover, every pair of lederhosen has a fly which was probably taken over from the French silk culottes (knee-breeches commonly worn by gentlemen of the European upper-classes from the Renaissance until the early 19th century)in the 18th century.
The Making and Pricing of Lederhosen
The price of a pair of lederhosen varies considerably. An original pair of leather trousers is sewn by hand. Consequently, a hand-made pair of lederhosen can cost a small fortune of several thousand Euros, whereas a manufactured pair of leather trousers is comparatively cheap and has a price of about 500 Euros. Another factor that influences the price of the Alpine dress is the leather quality. The traditional piece of leg clothing can be made of cowhide, goat, chamois, or deer leather. Before a piece of leather is used for the production of a pair of lederhosen, it needs to be fulled and treated with oil, such as fish oil. This procedure makes the leather flexible and soft. Afterwards it is often dyed brown or black. This process is known as “irchen”. Furthermore, the essential embroidery of leather trousers is an important cost factor. Usually lederhosen are decorated with elaborate embroidery including special types of decorative stitching or ornaments, which also reflects the socio-economic status of a person.
Types of Lederhosen
A 'typical' pair of lederhosen does not exist. In general one can distinguish between four types of lederhosen. The first type of lederhosen is the so-called Sepplhosen. This type of leather trousers is grey and extremely short off-shots of the original lederhosen with a turn-up and a fly. Moreover, there are knickerbockers with wide, overhanging legs. Another type of the Alpine ethnic dress is the narrow knee-breeches with green or white piping. The most popular kind of lederhosen is probably the genuine short lederhosen which were also Emperor Franz Josef I´s favourite type of lederhosen.
The Importance of Lederhosen
During the last years lederhosen have undergone a revival. Especially young Austrians and Bavarians developed a taste for the leather trousers. As a result, also the numbers of active members of folklore associations, whose members try to keep up old regional customs, have been increasing. Particularly nowadays, the Alpine dress is the pride and joy of many Austrians and Bavarians. It symbolises the unity of the people of the Alpine region and remembers them of their history and origin. The leather trousers, which originally were the working clothes of the foresters, represent the genuine and familiar. Moreover, they give them a sense of security in a fast-moving world. Men from Austria and Bavaria wear their lederhosen mainly at special occasions such as processions, folklore evenings, carnival festivities, or the famous Oktoberfest in Munich.
In conclusion one can say that lederhosen are to the Austrian and Bavarian what the kilt is to the Scot, or the cowboy hat to the Texan. This unique piece of leg clothing is a sign for the descent and history of the people from Austria and Bavaria. Furthermore, lederhosen reflect their closeness to their native country and their traditions.
References
Grieshofer, Franz J. Die Lederhose. Kleine Kulturgeschichte des alpenländischen Beinkleids. Vienna et al.: Fritz Molden Verlag, 1978.
Lederhosen are leather shorts or breeches, often with braces, worn by boys and men especially in Austria and Bavaria. There is a widespread belief that Austrians and Bavarians wear lederhosen all year round, yet this is certainly not the case. Nevertheless the genuine mountain-dweller is proud of his unique traditional costume and considers lederhosen as a tribal sign and a virtual proof of his belonging. This article gives a brief overview of the historical development of the lederhosen, an explanation of the different parts of the leather trousers as well as a description of the various types. Finally, it focuses on the importance of lederhosen in the 21st Century.
The History of Lederhosen
The origin of lederhosen goes far back in history. It is verified that the leather trousers owe their position in the Austrian and Bavarian culture to a historical process beginning in the Rococo period. Topographical-statistical surveys of this time also contain information about numerous customs and mores. Therefore they supply us with valuable facts about the development of the local garments. In addition, numerous artists painted the traditional costume in the works which provides us with further information about lederhosen. It is important to mention that the spreading of the Alpine dress coincides with the Napoleonic Wars and the setting up of a new Austrian Empire. These two events emphasised the nationalistic aspect of the local garment and consequently influenced the development of lederhosen. In the following decades the ethnic dress became a standard component of national festivals and finally a national costume. Especially the costume of the hunters, short leather trousers with a short grey-green coat, became extremely fashionable. Folklore associations strengthened the awareness of lederhosen and the traditional costume was also adopted by the aristocracy: for instance, Emperor Franz Josef I loved wearing lederhosen and put them on at every suitable occasion during his stay in Bad Ischl, a little town in the Salzkammergut in Upper Austria. Since that time various types of lederhosen with buttons of deer horn, with or without suspenders and embroidery in traditional patterns have developed. After the First World War countless tourists bought lederhosen and wore them not only in their holiday villages but also in their home towns. As a result, the exceptional piece of leg clothing effected a general breakthrough. Furthermore, the successful operetta “White Horse Inn” took the lederhosen over the ocean to North America.
The Features of Lederhosen
All lederhosen share at least three typical features. Firstly, they are usually worn with suspenders. Nevertheless some Austrians and Bavarians prefer to wear their breeches without suspenders and take them off. In addition, a common characteristic of the leather trousers is the small pocket worked into the side seam of the right trouser leg. Originally the mountain-dwellers and hunters put a knife, spoon and fork into this obligatory pocket. Moreover, every pair of lederhosen has a fly which was probably taken over from the French silk culottes (knee-breeches commonly worn by gentlemen of the European upper-classes from the Renaissance until the early 19th century)in the 18th century.
The Making and Pricing of Lederhosen
The price of a pair of lederhosen varies considerably. An original pair of leather trousers is sewn by hand. Consequently, a hand-made pair of lederhosen can cost a small fortune of several thousand Euros, whereas a manufactured pair of leather trousers is comparatively cheap and has a price of about 500 Euros. Another factor that influences the price of the Alpine dress is the leather quality. The traditional piece of leg clothing can be made of cowhide, goat, chamois, or deer leather. Before a piece of leather is used for the production of a pair of lederhosen, it needs to be fulled and treated with oil, such as fish oil. This procedure makes the leather flexible and soft. Afterwards it is often dyed brown or black. This process is known as “irchen”. Furthermore, the essential embroidery of leather trousers is an important cost factor. Usually lederhosen are decorated with elaborate embroidery including special types of decorative stitching or ornaments, which also reflects the socio-economic status of a person.
Types of Lederhosen
A 'typical' pair of lederhosen does not exist. In general one can distinguish between four types of lederhosen. The first type of lederhosen is the so-called Sepplhosen. This type of leather trousers is grey and extremely short off-shots of the original lederhosen with a turn-up and a fly. Moreover, there are knickerbockers with wide, overhanging legs. Another type of the Alpine ethnic dress is the narrow knee-breeches with green or white piping. The most popular kind of lederhosen is probably the genuine short lederhosen which were also Emperor Franz Josef I´s favourite type of lederhosen.
The Importance of Lederhosen
During the last years lederhosen have undergone a revival. Especially young Austrians and Bavarians developed a taste for the leather trousers. As a result, also the numbers of active members of folklore associations, whose members try to keep up old regional customs, have been increasing. Particularly nowadays, the Alpine dress is the pride and joy of many Austrians and Bavarians. It symbolises the unity of the people of the Alpine region and remembers them of their history and origin. The leather trousers, which originally were the working clothes of the foresters, represent the genuine and familiar. Moreover, they give them a sense of security in a fast-moving world. Men from Austria and Bavaria wear their lederhosen mainly at special occasions such as processions, folklore evenings, carnival festivities, or the famous Oktoberfest in Munich.
In conclusion one can say that lederhosen are to the Austrian and Bavarian what the kilt is to the Scot, or the cowboy hat to the Texan. This unique piece of leg clothing is a sign for the descent and history of the people from Austria and Bavaria. Furthermore, lederhosen reflect their closeness to their native country and their traditions.
References
Grieshofer, Franz J. Die Lederhose. Kleine Kulturgeschichte des alpenländischen Beinkleids. Vienna et al.: Fritz Molden Verlag, 1978.
