Seyyed-e-Khandan Crossing, Shari’ati St., Tehran, Iran

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During World War II, on the “Jadde Ghadim”, the ‘Old Road’ connecting the that-time city center of Tehran to the villages in the foothills of Alborz mountains, a coffee-house1 existed about half way to the north of the road, where there was little more than fruit gardens and a few private homes. Of its proprietor is little known today, except that he was a seyyed, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad, and probably a dervish by heart if not by vocation. The only surviving fact is that he was of a constant cheerful demeanor, which condition earned him the sobriquet “Seyyed-e-Khandan” or shorter in everyday use: “Sed-Khandan” – meaning ‘the laughing seyyed’. Soon the bus stop near the coffeehouse also became known as “Sed-Khandan’s”.

When thirty years later in 1971 a west-east highway with a bridge over that approximate part of “Jadde Ghadim” was finished, the people had already named them as “Sed-Khandan” highway and bridge.

After the Islamic Revolution 1978-79, many of the street names were changed. “Jadde Ghadim” became “Dr. Shari’ati Street”, and the high way and the bridge were named “Resalat”.

Today, the crossing between Shari’ati St. and Resalat Highway is one of the most built up areas of Tehran, with a traffic that frightens even the most experienced drivers. People have forgotten the little coffeehouse and its cheerful owner – but the bridge and the crossing still remain that of the “Seyyed-e-Khandan”.

May he rest in peace.

1 Coffeehouses in Iran at that time usually served only tea.

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