Are you planning a trip to Ontario, Canada in the near future? If you are, your trip will almost definitely include a trip to the picturesque little town of Niagara-on-the-Lake. If you are, here is some info that may come in handy.

A Brief History of NOTL

Niagara-on-the-Lake was settled in July or August of 1780 by Loyalists (Americans who remained loyal to the British Crown). These families had fled from the Mohawk Valley in New York after intense persecution from the Rebels (Patriots?).

A number of Loyalist families were granted Crown Lands on the East Bank of the Niagara River between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie.

Originally known as Newark, NOTL was briefly the Capital of the British Province of Upper Canada before the War of 1812.

In the War of 1812, NOTL saw action at its garrison, Fort George, when it was attacked and seized by American Forces, and subsequently retaken by the British.

Through the Victorian Period, Niagara became a popular summer destination for many wealthy families.

Niagara-on-the-Lake Today

Tourism has become the largest industry in the Little Town of NOTL. The number of people that pass through the town in the summer season is, at times, staggering. Among the residents, there is an intense love/hate relationship with the tourists. Nearly everybody who works in the town is connected in some manner with Tourism.

That fact is balanced by the local’s inability to find a parking space downtown when they want to do something silly like get their mail from the Post Office, or pick up groceries.

Growth Industries

The area has a beautiful climate with temperatures in winter and summer regulated by Lake Ontario. It is a perfect climate for Fruit Growers of all types. Cherries, Peaches, Strawberries, Raspberries, and of course Grapes. One can hardly throw a tourist without hitting a winery.

Though they don’t have the wide renown of European wines, there are, in this researcher’s opinion, some absolutely fabulous wines.

The Shaw Festival

NOTL has a strong connection with the Shaw Festival, as the town and the theatre have each been responsible for the other’s growth. The Mandate of the Shaw is to perform plays written within the life span of George Bernard Shaw. I have seen some absolutely incredible performances at the Shaw. I have also seen some real dogs. Like anything, it is a bit of a crap shoot. Definitely worth the attempt however. All three theatres of the Shaw have their own unique atmosphere and plays are usually picked to suit the theatre in which they are performed.

Living History

A recreation of Fort George was built in the 1930’s as part of a make work project during the Depression. Today it is open as an Historic Site run by Parks Canada. In the last couple of years, there have been severe cuts to the Fort’s operating budget, forcing them to reduce the number of staff. This reduction is unfortunate because the Fort can feel truly alive and vigorous with a robust staff. Those who are there, however, make do with what they have. The staff is divided between two main types of people: Students and History geeks. Much of the staff is hired for the summer under student employment grants. These students usually alternate between really enthusiastic and interested to nearly comatose. The History geeks are those that came for a season and got hooked. They are the ones who bring live, interest fun and entertainment to the Fort. They truly love their job and it shows.

The Niagara Historical Society Musuem

The NHS Museum is a great place to spend an afternoon when in Niagara. The musuem was the very first museum in Canada. Recently, the Musuem has had a number of renovations. The result is an open and spacious gallery, great exhibits of Upper Canadian History, a gift shop filled with tons of great books and craft-type merchandise. Currently the exhibit at the musuem is on Military Uniforms through the history of NOTL.

The Dark Side of NOTL

Well, it is not really a Dark Side, per se. It is just that layer of the town from which a passing tourist is kept distant. Here, to my mind, is the main problem: People come to Niagara because it is a cute, picturesque little Ontario town with friendly people and lots of “Culture.” The town, on the other hand, knows that its survival depends on the Tourists, so it goes out of its way to be as cute, picturesque and friendly as possible. So, to those who live there, it has a kind of fake, public face. Locals rarely go into the downtown area except to work as all of the stores cater to tourists, selling souvenirs (whether tasteful or tacky). Though there are supporting reasons why the town should be great (The Fort, the Shaw, the Wine tours) a lot of the greatness seems to be that weird “Tourist Destination” self-supporting cycle. It is strange to me that there are more hotels and B and Bs in the small town of NOTL than most mid-sized Ontario cities.

Where to Stay

There a a great number of places to stay. Having lived in the town I never stayed in any of them, but here is what I have gleaned from the people in town.

The Prince of Wales is way, way too expansive. Last I heard, rooms run between $200 and $300 per night. This seems ridiculous to me. The building is beautiful and has a lot of amenities and is right in the middle of town and is close to the theatre, but really.