Letter from Egypt. A Soldier Writing Home in 1916
Created | Updated Jan 24, 2007
Thomas Holley Ashmore (always known as Holley, his mother's maiden name), was born on 2 March 1896, the eldest son of a wheelwright and coach builder in Bluntisham Huntingdonshire, a village near St Ives.
In a photograph captioned "29th Divisional FAWU proceeding to the Great War on February 15th 1915", M2.047747 Pte T H Ashmore A.S.C. is one of 33 drivers, complete with goggles on their caps, with their Commanding Officer and seven open fronted ambulances. They were on their way to Egypt:his war was in the Middle East and included service on the Greek island of Lemnos, at Mudros, a base supporting the Gallipoli campaign.
Mabel, the recipient of the letter, was a year younger than Holley, and worked as a housemaid for a local farmer. She wrote to several boys from the Baptist Chapel after they joined up, but any letters she received from them have not survived.
September 6th 1916
Dear Mabel,
In a letter I sent you a few days ago, I told you I had been to Cairo on four days leave – the first leave I have had since I joined the Army. I had a very enjoyable time and thought you would be interested to know how my time was spent and of the things I saw etc, and for that reason I am trying to write to you now.
Well, my leave began at 6 o’clock on Tuesday morning Aug. 29th, but first of all perhaps I should tell you I had a very nice pal to go with and we got on very nicely together. He is not one of our own boys of the 29th, you know, but he came out a very short time after us and has never been out of Alexandria. Well now, for a start, we slept together Monday night and asked the guard to call us at 5am and ordered breakfast in the canteen at 6am. Then Tuesday morning we got up at 5am, got everything ready, had breakfast and got passes and were lucky enough to catch a car going into the town which took us to the station.
The train left at 7am and of course we had to show our passes before we could get on the train which was not as comfortable as those at home. We had to travel 3rd class as being privates we are not allowed in 2nd or 1st so we were the only two Englishmen in the carriage which was full chiefly of natives and they are a dirty lot anywhere. But we found the scenery very interesting all the way and crossed the Nile twice. When we were about halfway to Cairo a young Greek gent came along and spoke to us. We found he had just returned from England where he had been for 3 years in College. He showed us his degree and altogether his conversation was very interesting. Now we are getting very near Cairo and can see the Pyramids and towers etc. We arrive at the station and are asked again for our passes. Then we pass out and who should be waiting at the entrance of the station but Mr Shepperd, the Chaplain I told you of, from Houghton, you know, but he had friends meeting him so we shook hands and parted. I have not seen him since.
We then hired a gharry and drove to the Bristol Hotel, and, after fixing up for lodgings etc and a short rest, we engage a guide who, after lunch, takes us round the Egyptian Bazaars which we find very interesting. On every side are shouts of “come inside. I show you very nice presents for young lady. If you do not buy nebber mind” and lots of other things. Here, too, we see the natives chasing brass work in the real old Egyptian style. We also see sets of native women’s jewellery. We spend about three hours round these places then drive back to the Hotel, get a drink and rest until 3pm when we drive round to the mosques.
First we go into one called Refic Mosque built between 1822 and 1852, 30 years building at a cost of £2,000,000. It is a most magnificent place inside, but unlike our churches there are no pews or seats, the worshippers sitting or kneeling on the floor during services and facing the East. The Pulpit is a high structure with 10 or 12 steps and built of choice wood inlaid with Ebony, Ivory and Pearl. The Pulpit is only used by the Holy Priest, there being a special place for students. This is built of stone and set upon five pillars and under and through these pillars the guide said we must walk for then we would return from the war to our homes. In this mosque are 355 different kinds of stone including alabaster, several kinds of granite, marble, also some Acacia wood, really stone, from the petrified forest. It is very pretty and green in colour with grain like pine. There are, too, 355 porcelain lamps. In the centre of the building is a large lamp made of brass and gold and cost £5,000. The inside roof is dome-shaped in most cases built up with wood inlaid with old Egyptian enamel and gold and it is wonderfully pretty. We stood under a dome 145ft high. It was built by the present Sultan’s Grandfather, whose tomb we saw inside.
We had to leave this mosque as it is time for prayers, so we go over to the Sultan Hussan Mosque just opposite which is not used now. Here we saw the old fountain where the worshippers washed before entering the service. Then we go inside and see the Sultan’s chair and pulpit just the same as those in Refic only very much older and dirty, being disused. Then we saw some very old doors made of steel, brass, copper, silver and gold. There are porches hanging full of chains on which were lamps, but they have been taken and placed in other mosques now. This place, too, was hit with cannon balls from Napolean’s guns during his bombardment, but it suffered very little damage. One of the balls embedded in one of the large stones and is there still, although crumbling to pieces with age and rust.
We went then to the Jalloon Mosque which was the second mosque built in Cairo, the first being built in Old Cairo. This is in a real native quarter and we went through many very narrow dirty streets to get to it and also met many very disagreeable smells. The mosque has not been used for many years and is very dilapidated and dirty. It dates back to 1722AD. There is a high tower here which we climbed and when we were about half way up, we looked down into some native houses and saw a native girl tugging away at her face. The guide said she was cleaning it ready for her husband’s return, but she noticed us and fled instantly so quick we did not see her go. We got to the top and had a good general view of Cairo and district. This ended our first day’s sightseeing.
We drove back to the Hotel and just as the gharry stopped several others pulled up and a wedding party stepped out, the bride first with two little bridesmaids who looked very pretty. They were Syrians and protestants. The service was held in the Hotel while we had tea and it was very like English. Then they all passed through the room where we sat at tea led by the Minister to a smaller room as though to sign the Register, after which they dispersed and went to another room. Soon after this came the sounds of “It’s a long way to Tipperary” etc in English. Then some of them came and wanted us to go in and join them but we felt too bashful so we declined. However, after dinner two young men came and took us in to the party where we stayed until about 11pm singing and dancing. All of them spoke English so on the whole we had a very decent time, but we did not think much of the young men as they none of them offered to escort the ladies home (and of course we could not do so). We went to bed but it was too uncomfortable to sleep.
But I am feeling very tired and sleepy now so I must close and get to bed. This one I am sure will not be too uncomfortable for me to sleep. I must cut this a little shorter or I shall never get it finished and I must tell them all about it at home so I may be writing all my spare time for the next month if I go on at this rate. I am making an awful mess of it and many mistakes, but I believe you will forgive me for it all, won’t you. Goodnight, pleasant dreams etc. x x x x x x x
Now for a little about our doings the second day (Wednesday). We get up at 7am and have breakfast at 8am on the verandah. Then we meet our guide and take a gharry to the Egyptian Museum which is a huge place and is valued at £25,000,000. We found it very interesting but very tiring. I think it would take a month to go round and take notice of everything there. We went right round looking at most things and only stopping to examine those that interested us most and it took three hours. I took two photos inside and bought a guidebook which will explain that which I cannot in this letter. It would fill a large book to write fully what we saw alone.
Then from there we went by train to one of the hospitals to see some of the boys on the ambulances there, then back to the Hotel for lunch. After lunch we rested for a while then went down to the Nile. First we came to Kaso-el-Nil Bridge, a very fine bridge across the Nile with two huge figures of a lion at each end. These are in bronze. Then we went down to the boats and hired a sailing boat to take us down the river. It was a very nice boat, clean and comfortable and the scenery round about was charming. We sailed along for a time thoroughly at our ease thinking and saying that the only thing which could possibly add to the beauty and pleasure of the trip was the girl in my case and the wife for my friend. The currents were very strong and the water very dirty but the boatmen drank it. We passed the house where Lord Kitchener lived, also the Sultan’s houseboat and Cooks tourists’ boats and lots of others.
We came to another bridge and the large boat would not go under so we have to be rowed through but it is very hard work for the men against the stream. A great boat comes along at great speed under full sail and a line was thrown on to it and it towed us down past Roda Island. I should have said we saw the boats all going through this bridge. It is only opened from 4 – 4.30. It was a fine sight and I tried to get a photo of it. Now the large boat leaves us and we row across past Roda Island [and] saw the first measure of the Nile made by Mohamed Ali, the 1st Khadive of Egypt in 11AD. The water was 35ft deep. Then we came round past the place where the daughter of Pharoah found Moses. I tried to get a photo of it. Then we came back to the Isis. The stream brought us back.
We sailed back to [Gizeh] and stopped at the Zoological Gardens. We went round and spent about 2½ hours and saw many interesting things – animals, trees, flowers etc etc. Here I saw the first rubber tree I have seen. Then we went back to the boat and were sailing for nearly an hour while the sun was setting It is really glorious. Then back to the Hotel and when we had cleaned up a little, it was time for dinner after which we take a walk through the Esbekier Gardens and round the city until about 10pm, then get to bed which I must do now or I shall not get up as fresh as I ought. No doubt you are already there.
Good Night once again
I will now try to tell you something of the next day’s adventures (Thursday). First we were called at 5.30am and after the necessary preparations we had breakfast at 6.15, got our lunch and are ready for a long day. But we missed the first train to the Pyramids so have to take agharry through the city and meet the train on the other sidethen go to Giza Pyramids by train where the guide had ordered camels and donkeys to be waiting for us. These we mount, the first time I have been on a camel. It was rather fascinating but not too comfortable.
They take us through a Bedouin village and up the hill which is very steep and I was rather afraid the camels would not get up. However, we arrive in time at the topalongside the largest Pyramid where we dismount and climb up to the entrance. At the doorway we have to take off our boots then a guide goes with each of us into the darkness. Each guide takes a candle. It is rather a nervy job for it is a very steep climb and no steps except for small notches cut in the smooth granite and these have been cut since the Pyramid was opened just for the benefit of visitors. It was 30 years building and is 475ft high. The date of it is 3133BC. There were 500,000 men working on it. We pass an airshaft well which goes down 100 feet and up 200 feet. We go on up and come into a huge chamber. It is the chamber of the tomb of King Cheops for whom the Pyramid was built. This chamber is in the centre of the Pyramid and is 225 feet high. The tomb is still here. Now we go on again and come to the Queen’s Chamber. This is not so large and the tomb has been taken away from here. In 1872 an American gentleman came and slept in this chamber for three nights hoping to dream of some other treasure hidden here but all he could dream of was an airshaft in the wall above his head which he found and opened. This Pyramid was opened 800 years ago but there was nothing left of the mummies so they were supposed to have been stolen years before.
Now we have seen all [there is] to be seen inside this Pyramid and we go round to the large Sphinx – a huge thing cut from one solid piece of limestone. The date of it is 2872BC. We get the guide to take a photograph of us here on the camels. This Sphinx was the God of the Sun. Then we go into the Temple of the Sphinx. This is down below the surface of the ground and built up of great columns of granite, 16 of them each 16 feet high. Here, too, are three tombs, the tombs of the Holy Priests and the walls of the centre one are of alabaster. Then in an outside wall is a huge piece of granite 17’ x 4’ x 4’. Here, too, we bought some Roman coins dated 400BC. We also had a glass of lemonade, the last drink before entering on our journey across the desert of Sahara about 9 miles but there is a rest house about half way where we have our lunch.
After lunch we go to see the Tombs of the Sacred Bulls. There are 24 of them, all built of black granite with inscriptions in old Egyptian writing all over them. We looked into one of these which, of course, like all the rest is empty except for a little rat running about it. We could see nothing for him to live on nor anywhere for him to get out. The mummies have all been taken away and some placed in the museums. These Bulls, too, were Gods of the Sun. There are no choice stones in these tombs as they are cut out of the limestone rocks. It is like a long archway with the tombs on either side. From here we went to another tomb, the Tomb of Teh or Tea, the engineer who built the pyramids. This is a wonderfully interesting place. It is quite light there as skylights have been fitted. There are several rooms to it but none of the tombs are left now. The walls here are of limestone and are full of carvings representing the times and customs etc. There are women milking the sacred cow, others worshipping the gods bringing pigeons and other offerings, and the Egyptians fighting the Jews and driving bands of Jewish slaves along and boats being built, others being rowed by sailors, and many other things of this kind. Then there is another smaller room known as the Fruit Room where people brought fruit and corn to the king as a kind of tithe. On the walls of this room are many carvings representing the bringing of these things and the mill grinding the corn etc. This dates back to the 5th Dynasty 2842BC.
Now we mount the camels and set off for another jaunt, to Memphis, the first city of Egypt. Of course, the whole place is in ruins – it was built out of mud bricks. I had always wondered why the Israelites should want straw to make bricks but I know now for I saw these bricks being made – they are still used by the Egyptians. They mix up straw and mud, cut it into bricks and lay them out in the sun to dry. Here, too, is another large Sphinx which was found and unearthed only three years ago by a Professor Peters, an American. There is here, also, a large statue of Rameses II in red granite. This place is just off the Desert and in a most fertile part. The date palms were loaded with almost ripe fruit and looked beautiful.
We have now left the Desert and have seen 13 Pyramids which I believe are all in Cairo district. Altogether there are 35 Pyramids in Egypt. We now have to hurry to the station called Badrachain to catch a train back to Cairo. We get there just in time to get a drink at the station buffet while the guide gets our tickets. We do not feel any better for our long camel ride especially the sprint in the last lap, but we have a nice rest in the train and enjoy the fine scenery roundabout. We run along with the Nile for some way. It took about one hour and twenty minutes to get to Cairo. Then we drive back to the Hotel, very tired but well pleased with our outing. After a good wash and tidy up and a short rest we come down to dinner on the verandah, very hungry and enjoy our dinner all the better for it. Afterwards we take a walk into the town but feel too tired and knocked up to go far and return after about ¼ of an hour and get to bed.
Now for Friday, the last day of our leave. We get up about 7am feeling much better for a good night’s rest, and after a nice shower and a good breakfast feel quite fit for another day. Then, as our guide finished his contract with us on Thursday, we had to make a fresh one with him to go to Matameh (sic) to visit the Virgin’s tree etc. This is soon settled and we take the tram to Point Limoun station where we get a train to Matameh. This took about half an hour but the ride was very interesting. At the station called Koubbeh which is besides the Palace of the late Sultan we saw six (pretty) Egyptian women, the Harem of a native prince. The late Sultan’s Palace is a very pretty place and the trees and flowers are lovely. He had ten palaces with a total acreage of 1,000,000 acres.
We come to Zutun where there are hundreds of camels tied up in rows under the great date palms and now we are at Matameh station. From here we go on donkeys to the Holy Garden in which are the Virgin’s Tree and the Holy Well. The tree is fenced round so that we had to get the caretaker to unlock the gate before we could get to it. The original tree is dead and only a small piece of it is left but there is another tree growing in the same place which is an offspring of the old one and has been growing since 1900. There is another little sapling growing beside it which will take the place of the present one when it is dead. Then nearby the tree is the Holy spring which is supposed to have sprung up while the Holy Family rested there but it has been dug round and made like a well. The water is brought up by a waterwheel turned by a buffalo cow. There is, too, just by the well a stone basin or trough through which the water runs. In this the early Christians washed their clothes and it is still used for the same purpose, the guide told us. It is a beautiful garden full of nice trees and flowers. The pathway leading into it is an avenue of orange trees.
We then went round to the Chapel, a very pretty little building and the prettiest modern place I was ever in. I took two photos of the interior of it and we signed our names in the Visitors’ Book. I bought a small book of the caretaker which gives some of the history of the place and a few photos. I also drank a glass of water from the well and it was the nicest water I have tasted in Egypt. Then we went to the Obelisk, just a short distance from the well. This was the only obelisk left of a whole avenue of them with the two Cleopatra’s Needles. At the head of it is one solid piece of granite 55ft high and 8’ x 8’ at the base tapering to 5’ x 5’ at the top. It dates back to the 11th Dynasty 1723BC and is inscribed from top to bottom in old Egyptian writing. Since this was placed, the ground round about has risen about 8ft so that it has had to be built round to keep the earth away. This part is known as Old Heliopolis, the City of the Sun.
We went back to Koubbeh by train and there took a tram to New Heliopolis, the English quarter of Cairo. It has all been built within the last 15 years and is wonderfully clean and pretty .The buildings are, of course, modern and very attractive. We passed Luna Park and Hotel Heliopolis which was until lately used as a hospital by the Australians. It is a great fine building with 365 rooms in it. The Roman Catholic Church here is a very beautiful place and quite large. The English Church (Church of England) is a very nice place, too, although not very large. We did not go into these places as our time was very limited. Then from here we take a tram to Abbassieh as I want to go and see some of the staff of the 3rd A.G.H. who we were with at Mudros last year. I find that a good many have gone now and we go by tram back to Khazindar Square.
We go to the Hotel, have lunch, settle up with the guide and take a short rest until tea time. Afterwards we pack up our little bit of kit, settle hotel bills and go to the station in the Hotel bus. Here we get tickets – 3rd class again as we are still Privates (and proud of it) - but there is not a coach reserved for solders so we calmly get into a 2nd class carriage. We make ourselves as comfortable as possible after watching the sunset. As the rest of the people spoke very little English and we speak nothing else, we had to make our own conversation which, you may be sure, was often of home and those we left there and wishing it was one of the Great Eastern Railway trains we were in instead of Egyptian State Railway! Still the time and the train rolled on and at 10.15pm we found ourselves back in Alexandria and although we still have 1½ hrs to run on our passes there is nothing to stay in Alex for so we drive back to Ras-el-Lin and turn in. After talking for a few minutes we fall asleep. Thus ended my first leave and my first trip to Cairo.
I have not seen the result of my photos yet but hope to get them tomorrow. I sent a lot of my photos home a day or two ago so if they get there alright and you go over there, you may see something of them. I wanted to write home and tell them all this but I am afraid it will have to wait a little while. It is a long job. Still, I thought it might be a little interesting to you and someday when I come home I may be able to describe it more fully using these as notes.
Well I hope you will be able to read it and if the spelling is not as correct as it should be I trust you will understand it and forgive me and next time well perhaps I’ll do better.
Must now leave off with Best Love and good wishes from yours sincerely,
Holley
In a photograph captioned "29th Divisional FAWU proceeding to the Great War on February 15th 1915", M2.047747 Pte T H Ashmore A.S.C. is one of 33 drivers, complete with goggles on their caps, with their Commanding Officer and seven open fronted ambulances. They were on their way to Egypt:his war was in the Middle East and included service on the Greek island of Lemnos, at Mudros, a base supporting the Gallipoli campaign.
Mabel, the recipient of the letter, was a year younger than Holley, and worked as a housemaid for a local farmer. She wrote to several boys from the Baptist Chapel after they joined up, but any letters she received from them have not survived.
September 6th 1916
Dear Mabel,
In a letter I sent you a few days ago, I told you I had been to Cairo on four days leave – the first leave I have had since I joined the Army. I had a very enjoyable time and thought you would be interested to know how my time was spent and of the things I saw etc, and for that reason I am trying to write to you now.
Well, my leave began at 6 o’clock on Tuesday morning Aug. 29th, but first of all perhaps I should tell you I had a very nice pal to go with and we got on very nicely together. He is not one of our own boys of the 29th, you know, but he came out a very short time after us and has never been out of Alexandria. Well now, for a start, we slept together Monday night and asked the guard to call us at 5am and ordered breakfast in the canteen at 6am. Then Tuesday morning we got up at 5am, got everything ready, had breakfast and got passes and were lucky enough to catch a car going into the town which took us to the station.
The train left at 7am and of course we had to show our passes before we could get on the train which was not as comfortable as those at home. We had to travel 3rd class as being privates we are not allowed in 2nd or 1st so we were the only two Englishmen in the carriage which was full chiefly of natives and they are a dirty lot anywhere. But we found the scenery very interesting all the way and crossed the Nile twice. When we were about halfway to Cairo a young Greek gent came along and spoke to us. We found he had just returned from England where he had been for 3 years in College. He showed us his degree and altogether his conversation was very interesting. Now we are getting very near Cairo and can see the Pyramids and towers etc. We arrive at the station and are asked again for our passes. Then we pass out and who should be waiting at the entrance of the station but Mr Shepperd, the Chaplain I told you of, from Houghton, you know, but he had friends meeting him so we shook hands and parted. I have not seen him since.
We then hired a gharry and drove to the Bristol Hotel, and, after fixing up for lodgings etc and a short rest, we engage a guide who, after lunch, takes us round the Egyptian Bazaars which we find very interesting. On every side are shouts of “come inside. I show you very nice presents for young lady. If you do not buy nebber mind” and lots of other things. Here, too, we see the natives chasing brass work in the real old Egyptian style. We also see sets of native women’s jewellery. We spend about three hours round these places then drive back to the Hotel, get a drink and rest until 3pm when we drive round to the mosques.
First we go into one called Refic Mosque built between 1822 and 1852, 30 years building at a cost of £2,000,000. It is a most magnificent place inside, but unlike our churches there are no pews or seats, the worshippers sitting or kneeling on the floor during services and facing the East. The Pulpit is a high structure with 10 or 12 steps and built of choice wood inlaid with Ebony, Ivory and Pearl. The Pulpit is only used by the Holy Priest, there being a special place for students. This is built of stone and set upon five pillars and under and through these pillars the guide said we must walk for then we would return from the war to our homes. In this mosque are 355 different kinds of stone including alabaster, several kinds of granite, marble, also some Acacia wood, really stone, from the petrified forest. It is very pretty and green in colour with grain like pine. There are, too, 355 porcelain lamps. In the centre of the building is a large lamp made of brass and gold and cost £5,000. The inside roof is dome-shaped in most cases built up with wood inlaid with old Egyptian enamel and gold and it is wonderfully pretty. We stood under a dome 145ft high. It was built by the present Sultan’s Grandfather, whose tomb we saw inside.
We had to leave this mosque as it is time for prayers, so we go over to the Sultan Hussan Mosque just opposite which is not used now. Here we saw the old fountain where the worshippers washed before entering the service. Then we go inside and see the Sultan’s chair and pulpit just the same as those in Refic only very much older and dirty, being disused. Then we saw some very old doors made of steel, brass, copper, silver and gold. There are porches hanging full of chains on which were lamps, but they have been taken and placed in other mosques now. This place, too, was hit with cannon balls from Napolean’s guns during his bombardment, but it suffered very little damage. One of the balls embedded in one of the large stones and is there still, although crumbling to pieces with age and rust.
We went then to the Jalloon Mosque which was the second mosque built in Cairo, the first being built in Old Cairo. This is in a real native quarter and we went through many very narrow dirty streets to get to it and also met many very disagreeable smells. The mosque has not been used for many years and is very dilapidated and dirty. It dates back to 1722AD. There is a high tower here which we climbed and when we were about half way up, we looked down into some native houses and saw a native girl tugging away at her face. The guide said she was cleaning it ready for her husband’s return, but she noticed us and fled instantly so quick we did not see her go. We got to the top and had a good general view of Cairo and district. This ended our first day’s sightseeing.
We drove back to the Hotel and just as the gharry stopped several others pulled up and a wedding party stepped out, the bride first with two little bridesmaids who looked very pretty. They were Syrians and protestants. The service was held in the Hotel while we had tea and it was very like English. Then they all passed through the room where we sat at tea led by the Minister to a smaller room as though to sign the Register, after which they dispersed and went to another room. Soon after this came the sounds of “It’s a long way to Tipperary” etc in English. Then some of them came and wanted us to go in and join them but we felt too bashful so we declined. However, after dinner two young men came and took us in to the party where we stayed until about 11pm singing and dancing. All of them spoke English so on the whole we had a very decent time, but we did not think much of the young men as they none of them offered to escort the ladies home (and of course we could not do so). We went to bed but it was too uncomfortable to sleep.
But I am feeling very tired and sleepy now so I must close and get to bed. This one I am sure will not be too uncomfortable for me to sleep. I must cut this a little shorter or I shall never get it finished and I must tell them all about it at home so I may be writing all my spare time for the next month if I go on at this rate. I am making an awful mess of it and many mistakes, but I believe you will forgive me for it all, won’t you. Goodnight, pleasant dreams etc. x x x x x x x
Now for a little about our doings the second day (Wednesday). We get up at 7am and have breakfast at 8am on the verandah. Then we meet our guide and take a gharry to the Egyptian Museum which is a huge place and is valued at £25,000,000. We found it very interesting but very tiring. I think it would take a month to go round and take notice of everything there. We went right round looking at most things and only stopping to examine those that interested us most and it took three hours. I took two photos inside and bought a guidebook which will explain that which I cannot in this letter. It would fill a large book to write fully what we saw alone.
Then from there we went by train to one of the hospitals to see some of the boys on the ambulances there, then back to the Hotel for lunch. After lunch we rested for a while then went down to the Nile. First we came to Kaso-el-Nil Bridge, a very fine bridge across the Nile with two huge figures of a lion at each end. These are in bronze. Then we went down to the boats and hired a sailing boat to take us down the river. It was a very nice boat, clean and comfortable and the scenery round about was charming. We sailed along for a time thoroughly at our ease thinking and saying that the only thing which could possibly add to the beauty and pleasure of the trip was the girl in my case and the wife for my friend. The currents were very strong and the water very dirty but the boatmen drank it. We passed the house where Lord Kitchener lived, also the Sultan’s houseboat and Cooks tourists’ boats and lots of others.
We came to another bridge and the large boat would not go under so we have to be rowed through but it is very hard work for the men against the stream. A great boat comes along at great speed under full sail and a line was thrown on to it and it towed us down past Roda Island. I should have said we saw the boats all going through this bridge. It is only opened from 4 – 4.30. It was a fine sight and I tried to get a photo of it. Now the large boat leaves us and we row across past Roda Island [and] saw the first measure of the Nile made by Mohamed Ali, the 1st Khadive of Egypt in 11AD. The water was 35ft deep. Then we came round past the place where the daughter of Pharoah found Moses. I tried to get a photo of it. Then we came back to the Isis. The stream brought us back.
We sailed back to [Gizeh] and stopped at the Zoological Gardens. We went round and spent about 2½ hours and saw many interesting things – animals, trees, flowers etc etc. Here I saw the first rubber tree I have seen. Then we went back to the boat and were sailing for nearly an hour while the sun was setting It is really glorious. Then back to the Hotel and when we had cleaned up a little, it was time for dinner after which we take a walk through the Esbekier Gardens and round the city until about 10pm, then get to bed which I must do now or I shall not get up as fresh as I ought. No doubt you are already there.
Good Night once again
I will now try to tell you something of the next day’s adventures (Thursday). First we were called at 5.30am and after the necessary preparations we had breakfast at 6.15, got our lunch and are ready for a long day. But we missed the first train to the Pyramids so have to take agharry through the city and meet the train on the other sidethen go to Giza Pyramids by train where the guide had ordered camels and donkeys to be waiting for us. These we mount, the first time I have been on a camel. It was rather fascinating but not too comfortable.
They take us through a Bedouin village and up the hill which is very steep and I was rather afraid the camels would not get up. However, we arrive in time at the topalongside the largest Pyramid where we dismount and climb up to the entrance. At the doorway we have to take off our boots then a guide goes with each of us into the darkness. Each guide takes a candle. It is rather a nervy job for it is a very steep climb and no steps except for small notches cut in the smooth granite and these have been cut since the Pyramid was opened just for the benefit of visitors. It was 30 years building and is 475ft high. The date of it is 3133BC. There were 500,000 men working on it. We pass an airshaft well which goes down 100 feet and up 200 feet. We go on up and come into a huge chamber. It is the chamber of the tomb of King Cheops for whom the Pyramid was built. This chamber is in the centre of the Pyramid and is 225 feet high. The tomb is still here. Now we go on again and come to the Queen’s Chamber. This is not so large and the tomb has been taken away from here. In 1872 an American gentleman came and slept in this chamber for three nights hoping to dream of some other treasure hidden here but all he could dream of was an airshaft in the wall above his head which he found and opened. This Pyramid was opened 800 years ago but there was nothing left of the mummies so they were supposed to have been stolen years before.
Now we have seen all [there is] to be seen inside this Pyramid and we go round to the large Sphinx – a huge thing cut from one solid piece of limestone. The date of it is 2872BC. We get the guide to take a photograph of us here on the camels. This Sphinx was the God of the Sun. Then we go into the Temple of the Sphinx. This is down below the surface of the ground and built up of great columns of granite, 16 of them each 16 feet high. Here, too, are three tombs, the tombs of the Holy Priests and the walls of the centre one are of alabaster. Then in an outside wall is a huge piece of granite 17’ x 4’ x 4’. Here, too, we bought some Roman coins dated 400BC. We also had a glass of lemonade, the last drink before entering on our journey across the desert of Sahara about 9 miles but there is a rest house about half way where we have our lunch.
After lunch we go to see the Tombs of the Sacred Bulls. There are 24 of them, all built of black granite with inscriptions in old Egyptian writing all over them. We looked into one of these which, of course, like all the rest is empty except for a little rat running about it. We could see nothing for him to live on nor anywhere for him to get out. The mummies have all been taken away and some placed in the museums. These Bulls, too, were Gods of the Sun. There are no choice stones in these tombs as they are cut out of the limestone rocks. It is like a long archway with the tombs on either side. From here we went to another tomb, the Tomb of Teh or Tea, the engineer who built the pyramids. This is a wonderfully interesting place. It is quite light there as skylights have been fitted. There are several rooms to it but none of the tombs are left now. The walls here are of limestone and are full of carvings representing the times and customs etc. There are women milking the sacred cow, others worshipping the gods bringing pigeons and other offerings, and the Egyptians fighting the Jews and driving bands of Jewish slaves along and boats being built, others being rowed by sailors, and many other things of this kind. Then there is another smaller room known as the Fruit Room where people brought fruit and corn to the king as a kind of tithe. On the walls of this room are many carvings representing the bringing of these things and the mill grinding the corn etc. This dates back to the 5th Dynasty 2842BC.
Now we mount the camels and set off for another jaunt, to Memphis, the first city of Egypt. Of course, the whole place is in ruins – it was built out of mud bricks. I had always wondered why the Israelites should want straw to make bricks but I know now for I saw these bricks being made – they are still used by the Egyptians. They mix up straw and mud, cut it into bricks and lay them out in the sun to dry. Here, too, is another large Sphinx which was found and unearthed only three years ago by a Professor Peters, an American. There is here, also, a large statue of Rameses II in red granite. This place is just off the Desert and in a most fertile part. The date palms were loaded with almost ripe fruit and looked beautiful.
We have now left the Desert and have seen 13 Pyramids which I believe are all in Cairo district. Altogether there are 35 Pyramids in Egypt. We now have to hurry to the station called Badrachain to catch a train back to Cairo. We get there just in time to get a drink at the station buffet while the guide gets our tickets. We do not feel any better for our long camel ride especially the sprint in the last lap, but we have a nice rest in the train and enjoy the fine scenery roundabout. We run along with the Nile for some way. It took about one hour and twenty minutes to get to Cairo. Then we drive back to the Hotel, very tired but well pleased with our outing. After a good wash and tidy up and a short rest we come down to dinner on the verandah, very hungry and enjoy our dinner all the better for it. Afterwards we take a walk into the town but feel too tired and knocked up to go far and return after about ¼ of an hour and get to bed.
Now for Friday, the last day of our leave. We get up about 7am feeling much better for a good night’s rest, and after a nice shower and a good breakfast feel quite fit for another day. Then, as our guide finished his contract with us on Thursday, we had to make a fresh one with him to go to Matameh (sic) to visit the Virgin’s tree etc. This is soon settled and we take the tram to Point Limoun station where we get a train to Matameh. This took about half an hour but the ride was very interesting. At the station called Koubbeh which is besides the Palace of the late Sultan we saw six (pretty) Egyptian women, the Harem of a native prince. The late Sultan’s Palace is a very pretty place and the trees and flowers are lovely. He had ten palaces with a total acreage of 1,000,000 acres.
We come to Zutun where there are hundreds of camels tied up in rows under the great date palms and now we are at Matameh station. From here we go on donkeys to the Holy Garden in which are the Virgin’s Tree and the Holy Well. The tree is fenced round so that we had to get the caretaker to unlock the gate before we could get to it. The original tree is dead and only a small piece of it is left but there is another tree growing in the same place which is an offspring of the old one and has been growing since 1900. There is another little sapling growing beside it which will take the place of the present one when it is dead. Then nearby the tree is the Holy spring which is supposed to have sprung up while the Holy Family rested there but it has been dug round and made like a well. The water is brought up by a waterwheel turned by a buffalo cow. There is, too, just by the well a stone basin or trough through which the water runs. In this the early Christians washed their clothes and it is still used for the same purpose, the guide told us. It is a beautiful garden full of nice trees and flowers. The pathway leading into it is an avenue of orange trees.
We then went round to the Chapel, a very pretty little building and the prettiest modern place I was ever in. I took two photos of the interior of it and we signed our names in the Visitors’ Book. I bought a small book of the caretaker which gives some of the history of the place and a few photos. I also drank a glass of water from the well and it was the nicest water I have tasted in Egypt. Then we went to the Obelisk, just a short distance from the well. This was the only obelisk left of a whole avenue of them with the two Cleopatra’s Needles. At the head of it is one solid piece of granite 55ft high and 8’ x 8’ at the base tapering to 5’ x 5’ at the top. It dates back to the 11th Dynasty 1723BC and is inscribed from top to bottom in old Egyptian writing. Since this was placed, the ground round about has risen about 8ft so that it has had to be built round to keep the earth away. This part is known as Old Heliopolis, the City of the Sun.
We went back to Koubbeh by train and there took a tram to New Heliopolis, the English quarter of Cairo. It has all been built within the last 15 years and is wonderfully clean and pretty .The buildings are, of course, modern and very attractive. We passed Luna Park and Hotel Heliopolis which was until lately used as a hospital by the Australians. It is a great fine building with 365 rooms in it. The Roman Catholic Church here is a very beautiful place and quite large. The English Church (Church of England) is a very nice place, too, although not very large. We did not go into these places as our time was very limited. Then from here we take a tram to Abbassieh as I want to go and see some of the staff of the 3rd A.G.H. who we were with at Mudros last year. I find that a good many have gone now and we go by tram back to Khazindar Square.
We go to the Hotel, have lunch, settle up with the guide and take a short rest until tea time. Afterwards we pack up our little bit of kit, settle hotel bills and go to the station in the Hotel bus. Here we get tickets – 3rd class again as we are still Privates (and proud of it) - but there is not a coach reserved for solders so we calmly get into a 2nd class carriage. We make ourselves as comfortable as possible after watching the sunset. As the rest of the people spoke very little English and we speak nothing else, we had to make our own conversation which, you may be sure, was often of home and those we left there and wishing it was one of the Great Eastern Railway trains we were in instead of Egyptian State Railway! Still the time and the train rolled on and at 10.15pm we found ourselves back in Alexandria and although we still have 1½ hrs to run on our passes there is nothing to stay in Alex for so we drive back to Ras-el-Lin and turn in. After talking for a few minutes we fall asleep. Thus ended my first leave and my first trip to Cairo.
I have not seen the result of my photos yet but hope to get them tomorrow. I sent a lot of my photos home a day or two ago so if they get there alright and you go over there, you may see something of them. I wanted to write home and tell them all this but I am afraid it will have to wait a little while. It is a long job. Still, I thought it might be a little interesting to you and someday when I come home I may be able to describe it more fully using these as notes.
Well I hope you will be able to read it and if the spelling is not as correct as it should be I trust you will understand it and forgive me and next time well perhaps I’ll do better.
Must now leave off with Best Love and good wishes from yours sincerely,
Holley
