The Straussenwirtschaft - a popular seasonal tavern

1 Conversation

A medieval man and a bunch of grapes

A Straußenwirtschaft1 is a
place where a vintner sells and serves his own produce during
a limited period of the year. Straußenwirtschafts are very popular and can
be found in practically every wine-growing region in south-west Germany and
Austria.

History and Tradition

In the early days, vintners had to get their wine barrels empty from last
year's remainders, so in autumn, shortly before the next vintage, they
invited neighbours and guests into their living room to finish off the wine. By and by, the space
didn't suffice anymore, hence cellars, barns and/or patios were equipped
with tables and benches to fit the needs of hosting lots of people.
Nowadays, you can even find extensions built especially for this purpose.

It is said that the Straußenwirtschaft is based on the so called
Kranzwirtschafts
. Vintners were given permission to run a sort of
gastronomy (selling wine and homemade food on their grounds) by emperor
Charlemagne in 791 AD. This authorisation was displayed by hanging a
wreath of vine or ivy above the door.

The Strauß ( bouquet) after which they are named today and which is hung
above the door to indicate that this is a Straußenwirtschaft and that it is
open, consists of either a small bunch of flowers, or a bushel of fine
twigs, looking like a Besen (broom).

Law

Straußenwirtschafts usually don't have to be licensed, and they
don't have to pay trade taxes, but there are strict rules to be
abided by.

  • The opening time is limited to a maximum of four months per year; these
    can be broken into two periods. The planned service times have to be
    announced at the trade control office in advance.
  • Vintners are only allowed to sell their own produce and only on their
    own ground. Wine and Federweißer are the main products. One alcohol free beverage
    must be offered, but it has to be something else than water from the tap.
    Food has to be simple: bread with lard or cheese to go with the wine, or
    onion flans served with the Federweißen are most commonly available, other
    small warm dishes like sausages and sauerkraut are allowed.
  • The number of seats is limited to no more than 40, although nobody has been
    known to count how many people actually squeeze themselves on the benches,
    or stand while eating and drinking.

Throughout the late summer and early autumn months, many Wein˜ or Winzerfest ( wine feasts) are celebrated in the Straußenwirtschafts and the villages of the vine-growing areas, often with parades, music and entertainment. If the place boasts of a Weinkönigin2, she will generally hosts those feasts. You can't book places in advance, the motto is: First come, first served.
Some vineyards offer guided tours through their cellars with a wine-tasting afterwards. However, this has to be pre-booked, especially when going with a group, which is much more fun than going with only your partner anyway.

1 Other names are Besen˜
(broom), Häcker˜ or Heckenwirtschaft , depending on the
region.In Austria it is called Buschenschank.
2 A 'wine queen' is elected every year in each of the (13) German regions where Qualitätswein is produced.

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