A Cajun is a complex person, with as many ingredients in his makeup as there are in the gumbo Mama makes for special company.

Gumbo, a thick, rich flavorful stew, originated in the kitchens of south Louisiana.

Gumbo is the product of the many diverse cultures and cooking traditions of the people who settled south Louisiana. The exiled Acadians¹ brought with them their knowledge of soups and stews. The Africans, who were brought over as slave labour, brought with them the okra pod, or quingombo. This vegetable is not only used as a thickening agent in the stew, but also gives it it's name. The native Choctaw Indians introduced the settlers to ground sassafras² leaves which can be used as a thickening agent also.³ The native Choctaws also taught the settlers how to hunt and fish the bayous of south Louisiana, which added a heartiness to the stew. The Spanish settlers brought rice and red pepper, while the German and Italian settlers brought the use of herbs and spices.

The Basics

Roux

Many recipes in south Louisiana begin with five little words: 'first you make a roux'. Although the sentence is simple enough, it is imperative that it be understood. It is the base of the gumbo, and a well made roux (or lack of), can mean the difference between a five-star hearty meal, or a bland thin soup.

A roux simply starts out as equal parts all-purpose flour and either vegetable oil or lard. It's important that the oil or lard have a high flashpoint. Olive oil, for this reason, is not recommended.

In a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or iron skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, slowly add the flour, and stir continuously. Reduce the heat to low or medium-low, and continue stirring. As the flour browns, it will give off a wonderful nutty smell. Continue cooking and stirring (don't stop stirring or it will burn!) until the roux is dark chocolate brown in colour, which can take anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes. If black specks appear in the roux, it's been burned, and it should be thrown out and started over. A burned roux will dominate and ruin a gumbo.

Trinity

Trinity is a combination of chopped onions, celery, and bell pepper. There is no need for uniformity in chopping of the vegetables, but as a general rule, they should be chopped in approximate 1/4 inch pieces. Do not over chop, or the vegetables will become mushy in the cooked gumbo. It is suggested to have all of these vegetables, as well as the other ingredients prepared at the start of the roux, so no time or attention will be taken away from the cooking roux.

The order in which the vegetables are added to the roux is important. Onions are always first, as the flavor of the onion is transferred by longer cooking. After the onions are translucient, add the celery and cook until slightly tender. Finally add the bell pepper, and cook until the vegetables have become translucent, stirring all the while. The cooking vegetables will arrest the darkening of the roux, but it can still burn at this stage.

Stock

Stock is a rich hearty liquid that has been infused with aromatic flavours extracted from meats, seafood, or vegetables. In addition to the roux, the stock is an essential base of the gumbo. Although prepared stocks can be purchased commercially, the gumbo will always benefit from a freshly made stock.

A basic vegetable stock recipe is:

• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 carrots, peeled and sliced
• 6 cloves of garlic, diced
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tsp. dried thyme
• 12 whole black peppercorns
• 1 gallon cold water
• 2 cups dry white wine

For a chicken stock, 2 pounds chicken bones, cut to expose the marrow and 2 pounds chicken necks, wings and gizzards may be added to this basic vegetable recipe.

or

For a seafood stock, 3 pounds of crustacean shells or fish bones, and one sliced lemon can be added to the basic vegetable recipe.

Place all ingredients in a two gallon stock pot. Bring to a rolling boil, reduce to simmer and cook for one hour. During the cooking process, skim off all impurities that rise to the surface. Strain through a fine cheese cloth or strainer and allow the stock to rest for thirty minutes. Skim off all oil that may rise to the surface of the stock. Return the stock to a low boil and reduce to 2 quarts.

The Gumbos of Louisiana

One of the most basic tenets of gumbo cookery is that every batch is subtly different. There is no such thing as a definitive recipe, because it's adaptable to whatever ingredients are available at the time. Indeed, the nature of the dish encourages experimentation, just as the early Cajuns did many years ago.

Following is three traditional recipes. Feel free to substitute unavailable ingredients accordingly.