Hadrian's Wall
History of the Edge of an Empire | A Journey Along the Edge of the Empire | The Staffordshire Moorlands Patera
The Western Defences | The Forts And Camps North Of Hadrian's Wall

This is a journey of 53 miles that is often excluded from the total length of Hadrian's Wall. This Entry describes three routes: one goes from Ravenglass on the estuaries of the rivers Esk, Mite and Irt along the coast taking in the coastal defences. The second route also starts at Ravenglass but travels inland, across mountainous country. This was the supply route for Roman forts on the Wall. This route reaches the wall at Carlisle. The third route goes from Carlisle north of the wall into frontier country, visiting the Roman forts there. The routes are described here starting at the end of the wall, going along the coast and returning to the wall via the mountain route. This allows an interested walker to take all the routes in one (long) round trip.

The Romans were aware of the possibility of a seaborne attack on this stretch of the coast. If any hostile force landed south of Hadrian's Wall, this line of defences could have easily dealt with it before the attackers had the opportunity to move north to mount an assault on the wall. Several of the forts and bases may have been supply ports; one or more would also have been naval bases for the west coast fleet. The Roman fleet at this time numbered approximately 750 ships, which included galleys, transports and service vessels. The navy detachment sent to Britain consisted of around 150 to 200 vessels; these would have been distributed evenly along the east and west coasts and at bases on the British and French channel coasts.

This part of the journey on foot would have been covered by legionaries in two days, but you're better off taking three to walk it more leisurely - that's assuming you walk an average of 17 miles or so per day. The journey will take you south from Bowness on Solway to Kirkbride, on the Solway Firth, which was a sheltered area for a naval base. The road then goes on to Beckfoot, Maryport and Burrow Walls.

From there the journey continues south along the coast to Moresby, Calder Bridge and Ravenglass, a sheltered port on the estuary of the rivers, Esk, Mite and Irt. This was also the location of the southern naval base of the Roman fleet.

The areas between the forts were not empty; there were signal stations and small garrisons were positioned to guard these areas. It is a matter of debate whether sections of turf-and-timber wall were constructed to provide extra security.

The condition of the towns and sites today¹:

1 = No longer visible. Or built over.
2 = Building platforms, mounds and crop marks.
3 = Some ruins are visible above ground.
4 = Visible site with museum support.
5 = A major site and tourist attraction.

Wall Fort 1: Bowness - On Hadrian's Wall

Roman name: Maia
Translation: 'Large Fort'
Condition: 2

Total so far 0 miles.

• Hadrian's Wall east to Drumburgh (Concavata) 3 miles.
• West coast Military Road south to Kirkbride 4 miles.

Kirkbride

Roman name: Portus Trucculensis
Condition: 2

Built of timber-reinforced earth walls, this was a possible Roman Navy base founded by Gnaeus Julius Agricola². This fort of 24,000 square metres was built to defend the western end of Hadrian's wall, an area that was vulnerable to seaborne raiders. It was situated near the river Wampool and guarding the estuary where the Roman Navy may have established a depot.

Total so far 4 miles.

• West coast Military Road south to Beckfoot (Bibra) 12 miles.

Beckfoot

Roman name: Bibra
Translation: 'Shallow Water'
Condition: 2

This fort was of 20,000 square metres and built to house a 1,000-strong cavalry unit. It was positioned to defend the area to the south of the river Weaver. The area around the fort is notable for a large number of Roman 'bustum³' cremations.

Total so far 16 miles.

• West coast Military Road south to Maryport (Alvana) 9 miles.

Maryport

Roman name: Aluana
Translation: 'The bright moon'
Condition: 3

This large fort of 13,200 square metres was built to defend the Solway estuary. A settlement of timber-framed and stone housing, shops and municipal buildings developed to serve the fort. This was also the location of two possible temples and the administration centre for the western defensive forts.

Total so far 25 miles.

• West coast Military Road south to Burrow Walls (Magis) 5 miles.

Burrow Walls

Roman name: Axelodunum
Condition: 1

This fort was built north of the Derwent estuary, near Ling Beck, a fort of 12,000 square metres. A small settlement developed outside the fort to serve the garrison. The fort was built in a strong elevated position with commanding views all round, and it was from here the first road overland connected to Stanwix on Hadrian's wall.

Total so far 30 miles.

• West coast Military Road south to Burrow Walls (Gabrosentum) 6 miles.
• Military Road north east to Maryport (Alvana) 6 miles, Old Carlisle (Maglona) 14 miles, then on to Carlisle 11 miles and Stanwix on Hadrian's Wall.

Moresby

Roman name: Gabrosentum
Translation: 'Pool of the Goats'
Condition: 1

This fort was built by the Legion XX⁴. This Legion is also credited with the construction of the fort at Old Penrith (Voreda). There is little evidence of any civilian occupation in the area of the fort, so it is probable that this was just a military outpost.

Total so far 36 miles.

• West coast Military Road south to Calder Bridge (Tunnocelum) 8 miles.

Calder Bridge

Roman name: Tunnocelum
Condition: 1

This earth-and-timber fort was built to house 500 auxiliaries, stationed to defend this section of the coast. There is some evidence that there was also a Roman naval base at the fort. It is very likely that there was no civilian settlement in the area, as there is no evidence of any construction outside the walls of the fort.

Total so far 44 miles.

• West coast Military Road south to Ravenglass (Glannoventa) 9 miles.

Ravenglass

Roman name: Glannoventa
Translation: 'The Shore Market'
Condition: 3

A sheltered port and settlement, this fort was built to defend an important river crossing of the rives Esk, Mite and Irt. The settlement was of timber-framed and stone housing and no municipal buildings. This was also the location of the southern Naval base of the Roman fleet. From here, the road runs north east through Eskdale to Carlisle.

Total so far 53 miles.

You have now completed this section of your journey: You travelled 53 miles.

• The journey continues north east on the Military Road to Carlisle - On Hadrian's Wall 58 miles.

The Journey Overland from Ravenglass to Carlisle and Stanwix Fort and North to Broomholm

This is a journey along roads that were noted in the Antonine Itinerary II⁵, linking the ports on the west coast of Britain with the western end of Hadrian's Wall. The road runs through some of the most mountainous country in Britain. It travels from Ravenglass (Glannoventa) in the south to Carlisle (Luguvalium) in the north, forming one of the main military supply routes in Roman Britain.

In brief the route travels from Ravenglass (Glannoventa) to Hardknott (Mediobogdum) and on to Ambleside (Galava). The road then goes on to Penrith (Brocavum) then to Wreay (Cummersdale) and to Carlisle, (Luguvalium) where it joins the Stanegate Road. The end of this part of the journey is the Stanwix Fort - the nearest fort to Carlisle on Hadrian's Wall.

The road then passes through Hadrian's Wall and on to Neatherby (Castra Exploratorum); after this it continues to Barrens (Blatobulgium) which is the end of this route.

Travelling on the Road

The journey on foot will take a minimum of about four days. It is interesting to note that the longest distance between any points on the journey is the 20 miles (one day's travel in this terrain) between Ambleside (Galava) and Brougham (Brocavum). Travellers on this road were served by a system of waystations or mansios, which appeared at regular intervals - wagons and carts would only travel about eight miles a day. The travellers system of cauponae and tabernae would be rare on this sort of supply road⁶. All distances given are starting from Ravenglass.

Ravenglass

Roman name: Glannoventa
Translation: 'The Shore Market'
Condition: 2

The Roman fort at Ravenglass is the last of the western shore forts. To the north it is connected with the western end of Hadrian's Wall and the road east connects the fort with Carlisle and the wall. This put the fort in a unique position for control of the supply and defensive routes. Defended by the sea from the east and rivers Irt to the north west and Mite to the south and east, the fort is sited on a natural harbour on the estuary of the river Esk. This makes it probable that the fort and town were a base of the Roman Navy, a theory supported by the presence of memorial inscriptions found in the area. There are inscriptions that indicate the garrison was around 1,000 - 500 foot and 500 men from the fleet.

Total so far 0 miles.

• On unnamed roads northeast, continue to Hardknott (Mediobogdum) 8 miles.

Hardknott

Roman name: Mediobogdum
Condition: 3

This stone fort of 7,500 square metres was built in 124 AD to hold up to 1,000 auxiliary troops. The fort was constructed in stone and had barracks, store houses, officers quarters and a bath-house. The fort's purpose was to defend the western end of the Hardknott Pass and the port of Ravenglass in the event that the defences at Galava, at the northern end of the Hardknott Pass, were overwhelmed.

Total so far, 8 miles.

• On unnamed roads northeast, continue to Ambleside (Galava) 10 miles.

Ambleside

Roman name: Galava
Condition: 3

Built on the northern tip of Lake Windermere and protected on the eastern side by the River Brathay, this stone fort of 12,000 square metres was built to hold 500 auxiliary troops and was a forward defence of the Hardknott Fort. It was intended to defend the northeastern Hardknott Pass and the road to Ravenglass in the event the Wall was breached.

Total so far, 18 miles.

• On unnamed roads northeast, continue to Brougham (Brocavum) 20 miles.

Brougham

Roman name: Brocavum
Condition: 2

This fort was built by the Legion VIII⁷ and was constructed to defend the crossing point of the rivers Lowther and Eamont. The small settlement developed to serve the fort and take advantage of the passing trade between Carlisle and Ravenglass.

Total so far, 38 miles.

• On unnamed roads northwest, continue to Old Penrith (Voreda) 7 miles.

Old Penrith

Roman name: Voreda
Condition: 2

Originally built by the Legion XX, the Roman fort of Voreda was 14,000 square metres housing both mounted and foot troops. There was a settlement established on the northern and western sides of the fort.

Total so far, 45 miles.

• On unnamed roads northwest, continue to Wreay 7 miles.

Wreay

Condition: 2

The others in this chain of signal stations appear to have been Barrock Fell to the west and Wreay Hall to the north.

Total so far, 52 miles.

• On unnamed roads northwest, continue to fort near Carlisle (Luguvalium) 6 miles.

Carlisle - On Hadrian's Wall⁸

Roman name: Luguvalium
Translation: 'Luguvalos Town'
Condition: 1

The Roman fort and settlement.

Total so far, 58 miles.

• On Stanegate north, continue to Stanwix, (Uxelodunum) - 6 miles.
• On Stanegate west, continue to Burgh by Sands, (Aballava) - 6 miles.
• On Unnamed Roads South west, continue to Old Carlisle, (Maglona) - 10 miles.

Stanwix - On Hadrian's Wall

Roman name: Uxelodunum
Translation: 'River Fort'
Condition: 1

The Roman fort and settlement.

Total so far, 64 miles.

• On local roads north to Neatherby (Castra Exploratorum) 12⁹ miles.
• Hadrian's Wall to Castlesteads (Banna) 8 miles.

Neatherby - North of Hadrian's Wall

Roman name: Castra Exploratorum
Translation: 'The Scouts Camp'
Condition: 3

The Roman fort and settlement.

Total so far, 76 miles.

• On Stanegate north, continue to Broomholm - 8 miles.
• On local roads north, continue to Barrens (Blatobulgium) 8 miles.
• On unnamed roads south west, continue to Old Carlisle, (Aballava) 10 miles.

Broomholm - North of Hadrian's Wall

Roman name: Croucingo
Condition: 3

The Roman fort and settlement.

You have now completed your journey: You travelled 79 miles.