Survival In Cyprus
Created | Updated Jul 27, 2008
A Few Basics
Cyprus is a small island in the mediterrainian sea. It is somewhat of a dilemma, because it is divided into two - the Greek Cypriot section, or the South, and the Turkish Cypriot section, the North. The actual divider is in Nicosia, the capital, called the Green Line, so called because when the island was first being split, a British soldier divided it on a map with a green marker. The history of Cyprus is a complex one, involving invasions, escapes and an awful lot of Commanderia, an alchoholic drink which the Cypriots make rather well. My experiences of the North are minimal, having been raised in the South. Although I am allowed into the North (Greeks are not, but i happen to be English), I have only been a few times, so most of the information given in this entry will deal mainly with the South.
A Place to Stay
Cyprus has a plethora of places to stay, but the only ones a reader would probably be interested in are on the coast, in places such as Ayia Napa. Hotels in Nicosia, the capital, are mostly lovely 5-star affairs, mainly used by businessmen and the like, and are most enjoyable places to stay, as long as you don't mind paying more for a drink than the average Cypriot would for a small house. If hotels are not your deal, you may want to rent an villa or appartment somewhere on the coast. My personal preference lies with Proteras or Pisouri, so you may want to check those out. Most of the places there are within walking distance of a good taverna (restaurant) and swimming pool, or if you prefer salt, the beach.
Food and Drink
The cypriot cuisine consists of mainly seafood on the coast, along with traditional Greek dishes. It is mainly good food, but if never order something without asking someone what it is - bad things happen to those who do. Good dishes to try are kefthedes, a sort of meatball, and on the coast you cannot go wrong with a plate of kalamari, fried squid. Drink wise, be very wary of asking for a glass of water or house wine in dubious looking tavernas - such requests often involve spluttering, swearing, pouring the aforementioned drink into a plant pot, and then paying through the nose for it. If you want some beer, the cypriots have two main brands - Keo and Carlsberg. Although I'm something of a Keo man myself, these two beers are available pretty much anywhere on the island. Try not to confuse Cypriot waiters by asking for a pint of Kronenberg 1664.
Communicating
This tends to be less of a problem on the coast - most Cypriots there will be more than happy to talk to you, provided you will buy what they are selling, but in Nicosia less of the population have a real grasp of English. A popular misconception is that if you speak slowly, and try to put on a Greek accent, the native in question will suddenly realise what the hell it is you're banging on about. They won't. Speak in very short words, and use lots of clear body signals. Or find someone who speaks english who can translate for you, or answer your questions.
Travel
If you want to get somewhere by taxi in Nicosia, always tell the driver in terms of where it is in relation to Woolworths, the landmark of the city. Always have something to say when the driver asks 'Is near Woolworth?' Alternatively, rent a car. And dont ask anyone where the train station is, for the simple reason that the train station isn't. There are no trains in Cyprus, probably because you can get anywhere by car in under 5 hours. When driving in Cyprus there are certain things you should know -
1. Traffic Lights are there for decoration.
2. When someone honks their horn at you, its to let you know they are there, and planning to do something. What they're going to do is for you to decide. The word 'indicator' is not part of their vocabulary, in English, Greek or any language.
3. Get insurance.
For more on Cypriot driving, check out The Cypriot Highway Code which is truer than a priest on a polygraph.
Good Music
Don't bother, there isnt any. If you want to know the lyrics to a cypriot song, sagapo means I love you. Any other words are variations on the same theme. If you want to go to a taverna which offers 'Traditional Cypriot Bazouki,' think again. Or bring earplugs.
In Conclusion
It may seem like I'm not a big fan of Cyprus. Don't get me wrong, I love the place, its the people I'm not so fond of. Don't let this stop you going, though, it's really a great country, as long as you know where you stand.
