Rock climbing Vermont
Created | Updated Aug 16, 2003
Vermont, USA. North East Kingdom, Barton
Crystal Lake Cliffs North.
from Barton, VT go east on rt 16 for 1.5 miles or so to the Pageant Park Road. Follow this through the hard left and hard right turns while steadily traveling steeply upwards. after a trailer on the left, a 60ft cliff will be observed. Park where convenient while not blocking ANYTHING. THERE IS VERY LITTLE AVAILABLE PARKING. IF ARRIVING WITH MORE THAN ONE VEHICLE PLEASE PARK ALL BUT ONE OF THEM BACK IN THE VILLAGE.
The left diagonaling crack is 'Once upon a crack' 5.9+ an arms climb. this is the rocks traditional testpiece.
a few more climbs on this face run 5.7 to 5.11 (SO FAR) and one of A1.
a short bit up the road... is a slab with a short 30ft vertical face above it. Anything looking cleanISH has been done. The slab below runs 5.3 to 5.10a (there was a 5.11d but the only hold broke off.. no successful climbs on it since)a couple of 11-12 problems still exist. The face above has many thought provoking climbs from 5.6 to 5.11d so far (mostly 5.8+ to 5.10c) AND around the right corner is a short face on the up-to-the-top ramp. 5.3 to 5.9
These climbs are virtually all top rope climbs. This is a village view-of-the-lake spot. Please pack out not only your garbage, but also (sadly) that of the 'youths' who litter. We want to continue to climb here. Any bad press will throw US out. No bolting please.
At the moment there are about 45 climbs here. The boulders at the base of the cliffs offer a few more options.
The cliffs on the east side of the MIDDLE of the lake MUST be accessed by boat. There are a couple of 5.10s on the left face and a 5.7 in the middle but essentially this is an escape AND untried. There are 4 to 5 ice climbs here in the winter, accessed by walking across the frozen lake.. play and enjoy.
Crystal Lake Cliffs North.
from Barton, VT go east on rt 16 for 1.5 miles or so to the Pageant Park Road. Follow this through the hard left and hard right turns while steadily traveling steeply upwards. after a trailer on the left, a 60ft cliff will be observed. Park where convenient while not blocking ANYTHING. THERE IS VERY LITTLE AVAILABLE PARKING. IF ARRIVING WITH MORE THAN ONE VEHICLE PLEASE PARK ALL BUT ONE OF THEM BACK IN THE VILLAGE.
The left diagonaling crack is 'Once upon a crack' 5.9+ an arms climb. this is the rocks traditional testpiece.
a few more climbs on this face run 5.7 to 5.11 (SO FAR) and one of A1.
a short bit up the road... is a slab with a short 30ft vertical face above it. Anything looking cleanISH has been done. The slab below runs 5.3 to 5.10a (there was a 5.11d but the only hold broke off.. no successful climbs on it since)a couple of 11-12 problems still exist. The face above has many thought provoking climbs from 5.6 to 5.11d so far (mostly 5.8+ to 5.10c) AND around the right corner is a short face on the up-to-the-top ramp. 5.3 to 5.9
These climbs are virtually all top rope climbs. This is a village view-of-the-lake spot. Please pack out not only your garbage, but also (sadly) that of the 'youths' who litter. We want to continue to climb here. Any bad press will throw US out. No bolting please.
At the moment there are about 45 climbs here. The boulders at the base of the cliffs offer a few more options.
The cliffs on the east side of the MIDDLE of the lake MUST be accessed by boat. There are a couple of 5.10s on the left face and a 5.7 in the middle but essentially this is an escape AND untried. There are 4 to 5 ice climbs here in the winter, accessed by walking across the frozen lake.. play and enjoy.
