Ermine Street was a Roman road built between the years 45 and 75 AD. It started in London and was extended north as the conquest of Britain progressed as far north as York, and beyond. Ermine Street is still mostly in existence today.

The Start of Ermine Street

Unlike Watling Street, Ermine Street has one clear starting point and a clear direct route. The name Ermine Street is not the road's original Roman name; instead, it is the Saxon name for the road, Earningstraet the road of Earn's folk. Starting in London (Londinium), it proceeds via Braughing, Wimpole Lodge, Godmanchester (Durovigvtum) to Water Newton (Durobrivae), where it crosses the river Nene. After the Nene crossing, the road heads north through Great Casterton, Saltersford, Ancaster and into Lincoln (Lindum).

As Ermine Street continues north from Lincoln, it passes through Owmby and Hibaldstow to reach Winteringham, a ferry crossing of the river Humber (Abus Fluvius). The ferry would lead to the seaport of Brough on Humber (Petvaria) on the northern side of the Humber, following which the road continues north to York (Eburacum), a major city with access via the river Ouse¹, to the Humber and thus the sea.

We are going to travel back in time to 100 - 200 AD, when the journey described in this Entry would have been possible. You will see 14 settlements, from the grand to the rural, some of which existed just to serve the garrison of a nearby fort, and to give shelter to the travellers on Ermine Street. The journey on foot will take a minimum of about nine days - that's assuming you walk eight hours a day, travelling an average of 32 to 33 miles per day. It is interesting to note that the longest distance between any two points on this journey is the 27 miles between London and Braughing. This is less than one day's travel for foot soldiers, although wagons and carts could be as slow as eight miles a day. All distances given are starting from London.

The condition of the towns and sites today is shown in the heading.

1. No longer visible, or built over.
2. Some evidence visible in the ground: building platforms, mounds and crop marks.
3. Some ruins are visible above ground.
4. Visible site with museum support.
5. A major site and tourist attraction.

In addition, the Roman name of the each site is given, where known.

London

Roman name: Londinium
Translation: 'The town of Lugh'
Condition: 5

Founded in 43 AD, London was originally established as a fort. There is evidence of three legions in the city, the Second (Augusta), the Sixth (Victorious) and the Twentieth. It was constructed at a suitable point on the Thames where a bridge could be built using the islands in the river. Protected by substantial walls enclosing an area of of 145,000 square metres, and a legionary fort, Londinium's houses were mostly built from stone. It had many fine stone municipal buildings, including a governor's palace, theatres. The temples were dedicated to a variety of deities: Jupiter, Cybele, Sol Invictus, Mithras, Mars, the Spirits of the Emperors and Isis.

From London the temple of Isis, this inscription was found inscribed on pottery in a settlement on Watling Street, on the Kent side of the Thames. This appears to indicate that there was a souvenir trade established near the temples in the city.

The streets were mainly paved. The town achieved the status of provincial capital in 190 AD and the city walls were started shortly after. At this time London's six land gates were established and their names and locations still survive. They are Lud Gate (now Ludgate), New Gate, Alders Gate (now part of the Barbican area), Cripple Gate², Bishops Gate (now Bishopsgate, next to Liverpool Street) and Ald Gate (now Aldgate). Moorgate, another gate on the path of the London Wall, was constructed at a later date. There was also a bridge over the Thames to the south of the city.

Total so far: 0 miles.

Roads leaving London at this important road junction:

• To the south over the Thames bridge to Hassocks: 44 miles
• To the north west from Ald Gate the road to Brockley Hill (Sulloniacis)
• To the north-east from Alders Gate to Chelmsford (Caesaromagus), Baylim House (Combretovium) and Castor St Edmunds (Venta Icenorum)
• To the south-east over the Thames bridge to Titsey and the Titsey villa estate: 18 miles

• To start your journey on Ermine Street proceed north to Braughing: 27 miles

Braughing

Condition: 2

Braughing was an Iron Age settlement built by the Catuvellauni as the capital of king Tasciovanus before the Roman invasion. The town's situation close to the Icknield Way³ made it well placed for trade, with access to the sea being provided by a small port on the River Rib that served the town.

The town was built as a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and a ditch, and by the era our journey is set in, the town lay alongside Ermine Street in a prosperous agricultural area and was a market town with shops and warehouses. The settlement covered 36,000 square metres, and consisted of timber-framed and stone-built houses⁴ and a few stone municipal buildings. The streets in the town were mainly paved, and five cemetery enclosures have now been found near the town.

Total so far: 27 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north to Wimpole Lodge: 16 miles
• To the east, on Stane Street, is Bishop's Stortford: 6 miles

Wimpole Lodge

Condition: 1

Little is known about this small settlement that was situated on either side of Ermine Street. It was a settlement of flint, stone and timber-framed housing with tiled roofs and a few trade buildings and shops. There is evidence of trade and iron working in the town. Roman iron was not cast; it was forged red hot with hammer and anvil. Sheet iron was joined with rivets or welded while white hot. The iron trade was very sophisticated and spanned the Empire. The smelted raw material was traded as rods or bars and broken or worn out iron items were recycled as scrap iron, this was a major local source of supply for the blacksmith.

Total so far: 43 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue northwest to Godmanchester - Durovigutum: 15 miles
• To the east is Great Chesterford: 12 miles
• To the north is Duroliponte: 10 miles

Godmanchester

Roman name: Durovigutum
Translation: 'A Thriving Strongpoint'
Condition: 2

Originally a fort, this settlement was situated across Ermine Street on a crossing of the River Great Ouse⁵. Forts holding between 800 and 5,000 men were often the first stage of a settlement, after which a town or vicus grew up to serve the fort, and then developed as a self supporting economy. Durovigutum was a settlement with a mansio⁶ and a bath house along with a fine Basilica and three temples. The housing was built from quality stone or was timber-framed, and there were paved streets and a busy commercial area with trade buildings, granaries, shops and warehouses. At this time the town's walls enclosed an area of 9,000 square metres⁷.

Total so far: 58 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north east to Water Newton (Durobrivae): 19 miles
• To the southeast, on the Via Devana, is Cambridge (Dvroliponte): 14 miles
• To the south west is Sandy: 14 miles
• To the north west is Thrapston: 19 miles

Water Newton

Roman name: Durobrivae
Translation: 'The Bridge by the Fort'
Condition: 3

Originally a fort, this town was situated across Ermine Street on a crossing of the River Nene. A strongly defended settlement with earth and stone ramparts and ditches, access to the town was by three strong gateways. Durobrivae was one of the wealthiest settlements in Britain and one of the centres of a prosperous pottery trade. The housing was built from quality stone or was timber-framed, and there were paved streets a fine Basilica and several temples and alters along with a mansio and a bath house. A milestone was found one mile from the town - the inscription reads:

The town centre was a busy commercial area with trade buildings, pottery workshops, shops, granaries and warehouses. As mentioned, the settlement was the trading centre for the pottery industry in the area. Roman pottery was classified into either fine ware and course ware. The best-known fine ware was samian ware but there are examples of marbled stamped and glazed wares. Course wares were plain and generally undecorated, cooking pots, storage jars, and kitchen ware were the most common types in every day use.

Total so far: 77 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north west to Great Casterton: 11 miles
• To the north is Bourne: 15 miles
• To the southwest is Ashton: 8 miles
• To the east, on the Fen Causeway, is Longthorpe: 8 miles

Great Casterton

Condition: 1

Originally a fort, this settlement of around 8,000 square metres, which had stone walls after 320 AD, was situated across Ermine Street in a bend of the River Gwash. It was a settlement with a mansio, a bath house, a Basilica and a temple. The housing was built from quality stone or was timber-framed, and the town had paved streets, a busy commercial area housing ore-smelting and the pottery trade, and related buildings, granaries, shops and warehouses. There was a cemetery to the south of the town.

Total so far: 88 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north to Saltersford (Durobrivae): 18 miles
• To the north west is Thistleton: 9 miles

Saltersford

Roman name: Durobrivae
Translation: 'The Walled Town of Bridges'
Condition: 1

This was a small and relatively unimportant settlement that was situated on Ermine Street. Little is known and it was likely that it was a settlement of timber-framed housing with a few trade buildings and shops. The settlement was likely to have been involved in the trade from the Woolsthorpe iron mines⁹. The iron trade was very sophisticated and spanned the Empire. As a raw material iron was traded as rods or bars, which would have been produced at the mines for trade distribution.

Total so far, 106 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north to Ancaster (Cavsennae): 5 miles
• To the south west is Denton: 5 miles

Ancaster

Roman name: Cavsennae
Condition: 2

There was originally a British tribal village here before an auxiliary fort was built. This settlement, one of five tribal sites known to have been re-used after the invasion, was situated alongside Ermine Street and grew to 10,000 square metres to serve the fort. The housing was built from quality stone or was timber-framed, and there were paved streets and a busy commercial area that served the ports on the Wash along with related buildings, granaries, shops and warehouses. There was a large villa a short distance to the north of the town on the eastern side of Ermine Street.

A local god Viridius¹⁰ had an arch dedicated to him in the town by Trenico, indicating a reasonable level of prosperity in the town.

Total so far: 111 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north to Lincoln (Lindum): 18 miles
• To the southeast is Sapperton: 7 miles

Lincoln

Roman name: Lindum
Translation: 'Pool of Dark Water'
Condition: 4

The settlement of Lincoln was first founded as a legionary fort of the IX Legion¹¹ in 46 - 47 AD.

The town was founded with good connections to Londinium via Ermine Street, and so trade flourished. A colonia¹² was founded in 98 AD, by which time served legionaries and thair families. It was also at this time that the town walls were built. The town eventually gained a basilica, forum, temple and baths; these were followed by a larger temple complex. The main deities in the settlement were:

The homes were constructed using timber and stone, and mosaic floors were not uncommon. The town had a wide variety of shops, and brick, tile and pottery production and bronze making were all established. By the time that the colonia was complete, the settlement had grown to 40,000 sq metres and was enclosed by low stone walls and a defensive ditch. At this time the fort's four gates were rebuilt. The civil settlement had by this time expanded beyond the walls in the area near the River Witham. This was the northern terminus of the Fosse Way, and travellers had to continue north or south on Ermine Street.

Total so far: 129 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street, continue north to Owmby: 10 miles
• To the northwest is Marton: 15 miles
• To the southeast is Sleaford (Bannovalum): 18 miles
• To the east is Horncastle: 22 miles
• To the southwest, on the Fosse Way, is Brough (Crococalana): 10 miles

Owmby

Condition: 1

Virtually nothing is known about this settlement, except that it was of course situated on Ermine Street. It is likely that Owmby was a settlement of timber-framed housing with a few trade buildings and a local market.

Total so far: 139 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north to Hibaldstow: 11 miles
• To the west is Segelocum: 16 miles

Hibaldstow

Condition: 1

Just like Owmby, this minor settlement was situated on Ermine Street, but little else is known about it. Again, it is likely that it was a settlement of timber-framed housing with a few trade buildings and shops.

Total so far: 150 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north to Winteringham: 11 miles
• To the west is Segelocum: 16 miles

Winterton Villa Estate

Condition: 2

Ermine Street passes a landmark on this part of the journey, the villa estate of Winterton. The area contains evidence of several buildings serving the villa, which judging by its size was an important estate.

Winteringham

Condition: 1

Just like Owmby, this minor settlement was situated on Ermine Street, the difference being in this case that it lay on the banks of the river Humber. Little is known anout this settlement except that it was a crossing point for the Humber ferry, with landing stages to handle the river traffic. It was likely that it was a settlement of timber-framed housing with a few trade buildings and shops, and it is possible it was a minor port.

Total so far: 161 miles.

To continue your journey:

• By ferry continue north across the river Humber (Abus Fluvius) to Brough on Humber (Petvaria): 3 miles
• To the southeast is Kirmington: 12 miles

Brough on Humber

Roman name:Petvaria
Translation: 'One of Four Towns'
Condition: 1

Established as a legionary fort of the IX Legion¹³ in 71 AD, Petvaria had previously been a tribal city of the Parisi, a Celtic tribe. The town had a wide variety of quality housing, several temples, a good theatre, stone municipal buildings and mainly paved streets, and was a crossing point for the Humber ferry.

Total so far: 164 miles.

To continue your journey:

• On Ermine Street continue north to York (Eburacum): 29 miles
• To the north, on Cade's Road is Newcastle-upon-Tyne (Pons Aelius): 100 miles
• To the southeast is Kirmington: 12 miles

York

Roman name: Eburacum
Translation: 'Place of Yew Trees'
Condition: 5

Founded in 71 AD, York was originally a fortress for the Legion IX. It was constructed at a suitable point near the Rivers Fosse and Ouse where a bridge could be built, and had a ready supply of timber for construction work. Positioned on a sandstone outcrop and protected by the river Fosse to the south and the river Ouse east, and with substantial walls and the legionary fort, York thrived. The houses were mostly built from stone, and the town had many fine stone municipal buildings, including a governor's palace. The streets were mainly paved and the town was prosperous. Theatres, a hippodrome and temples to the gods including Genius Cucullatus, a Celtic deity, and others:

There were also temples to the spirits of the Emperors. The IX Legion was replaced by the VI Legion (Conquering) in about 120 AD by order of the Emperor Hadrian. The town achieved the status of provincial capital in 190 AD, and was about 50,000 square metres in size at this time.

Total so far: 193 miles, 190 miles on Ermine Street and 3 miles across the Humber.

Although York marks the end of Ermine Street, to continue your journey:

• To the northwest, on Dere Street, is Aldborough (Isurium Brigantum): 15 miles
• To the northeast is Malton (Derventio): 17 miles
• To the southwest, on Ryknild Street, is Tadcaster(Calcaria): 10 miles
• Alternatively, you could just turn around and go back the way you came.

Notes on Roman Roads

• Initially, the cost of the road was borne by the state; after that it was the responsibility of the local government to raise the money to keep the road in good repair. An official called the Curatores Viarum was appointed who had to raise the money to maintain the roads in his care.

• Roman roads were not free to travel upon. There were tolls collected at the towns along the course of the road. As a point of interest, the bridges were a particular source of revenue. This explains the survival and continuous use of fords along the routes.

• A Roman mile is 1,000 paces and a milestone was set up to mark each mile. Each milestone had a dedication to the Emperor of the day. At the height of the expansion of the Empire, roads were built at the rate of one kilometre every day.

• The Roman surveying tool the groma or 'surveyor's cross' could not be used to survey round corners. It was a line-of-sight tool that could only be used to plot stright lines as in roads, or in 90 degree right angles as used in laying out towns. Thus Roman roads are straight or cornered in a series of straight sections.