New Zealand is a black country - All Blacks (rugby) and black boats (America's Cup yachting) and that sort of thing - but in the wine world we are most certainly on the light side of the spectrum. As the place of the pale, rampant Sauvignon Blanc, the extravagantly blonde virile Chardonnay and the creamy, lustrous Sparkling, New Zealand is the bright white wine land, but the shades of '98 creeping over the country in recent months may just be colouring in our reputation to match our jerseys.

Now that we have them to taste, the loudly proclaimed 1998 Hawke's Bay¹ reds have emerged to be every bit as good as their previews. Dark wines filled with the muscular bits that we expect of good reds, ripe in flavours redolent of all those berryfruits that wine writers love to accuse, thick through and bristling with textures from gloss to grit. At least the top ones are, and they have a fragrance to suggest that they will distil grace from their awkward elbows and knobbly knees, with time enough to dance for us.

The problem with vintage character is that it is a sign of the time, not an affirmation of quality. Even in a year when the climate is perfect, all it produces is excellent grapes, not outstanding wine. It is up to winemakers to do that, and in this the best guide to what you should be snapping up and laying down for your future pleasure are those wines made by producers whose reputation suggests that they are most likely to have got it completely right in 1998, so here's a checklist for those of you with money to invest in a self-indulgent future..

None of them are cheap, so don't expect any bargains and, if you are over 75, nor are they a wise investment - by the time the '98s are at their peak you won't be strong enough to pull the corks out.

If you are ready, hang out for Te Mata's three top reds - Coleraine, Awatea and Bullnose. Few match the latter two in any year, and I doubt if any red has been made here to compare with the '98 Coleraine. Also keep your eye on Sanderson, especially the Syrah,² the CJ Pask Merlots, Ngatarawa's very fine Glazebrook reds, Redmetal's rare but good Merlot blends, Brookfield's Cabernet based wines, and Trinity Hills Black Label range. These should darken up our reputation a bit, not surprising when you think of all the New Zealand sportspeople who wore, and are wearing, black. With this lot you can look forward to celebrating with us when we win the Rugby World Cup in 2024.