No, not that sort of surfing. Not sitting on your butt going square eyed over the www. This is the real thing. This is paddling out on a five foot, glassy, crisp Autumn day somewhere in North Cornwall, a light off-shore wind and bright morning sunshine just rising up over the headland. This is gliding into the line-up just after a big set has gone through, giving you a few minutes to catch your breath before the next feathering mountain of energy comes marching along. This is seeing the wave with your name on it pushing in from the horizon, hundreds of miles of gravitational energy stored up for your pleasure in a wonderful once in a lifetime ride. You see the section to your right begin to break and you spin your board around and paddle hard with the crashing of the falling water loud in your ears, you feel yourself lift on the board, a couple more pulls to get you on the wave then spring to your feet, just in time to feel the board fall away beneath you, you bend your knees and force yourself to stay in contact with the board as you take the drop, you land and are instantly sent rocketing forward by the force of the wave, dig in hard for a raking bottom turn and just as the face collapses behind you, you pull into the shimmering smooth face of the unbroken section to your right, like a little elevator ride to the top of the wave then swing left and whistle down the face again, skimming across the water like the cormorant, hardly touching the surface. Pull back into the face, it jacks right up in front of you for a good twenty yards, weight to the front you push maximum speed out of the board , your whole world is now made up of the towering verticle wave, you can touch the solid face with your hand, it wobbles above you, blocking out the sunshine, about to crash down at any moment. Somehow time stands still, for a few vital seconds the wave defies gravity and holds upright without breaking, you are at maximum speed, there is no sound as you push to make it through before the section breaks on you. Just as you think it¹s going to take you down, just as it breaks all around you, you somehow catapault out the end of the section, a huge crash as the wave smashes closed, but you have flown beyond it, you pull back over the top and back out for more...
Infinite Improbability Drive
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