Ermine Street - A Journey through Roman Britain

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Ermine Street is a road built by the Romans between the years 45 AD and 75 AD. It started in London and was extended north as the conquest of Britain progressed as far north as York and beyond. Ermine Street is still mostly in existence today.

The Start of Ermine Street

Unlike Watling Street, Ermine Street has one clear starting point and a clear direct route. The name Ermine Street is not the road's original Roman name, it is the Saxon name for this road, Earningstraet the road of Earn's folk. Starting in London (Londinium), it proceeds via Braughing, Wimpole Lodge, Godmanchester (Durovigvtum) to Water Newton (Durobrivae), where it crosses the river Nene. After the Nene crossing, the road heads north through Great Casterton, Saltersford, Ancaster and into Lincoln (Lindum).

As Ermine Street continues north from Lincoln, it passes through Owmby, Hibaldstow to Winteringham a ferry crossing of the River Humber (Abus Fluvius), to Brough on Humber (Petvaria) a seaport on the northern side of the Humber. Then north to York (Eburacum), a major city with access via the river Ouse1, to the river Humber and the sea.

We are going to travel back in time to 100 - 200 AD, when the journey described in this Entry would have been possible. You will see 14 settlements, from the grand to the rural, some of which existed just to serve the garrison of the fort near where they were built, and to give shelter to the travellers on Ermine Street. The journey on foot will take a minimum of about nine days - that's assuming you walk eight hours a day, travelling an average of 32 to 33 miles per day. It is interesting to note that the longest distance between any two points on this journey is the 27 miles between London and Braughing. This is less than one day's travel for foot soldiers, although wagons and carts could be as slow as eight miles a day. All distances given are starting from London.

The condition of the towns and sites today is shown in the heading2.

  • 1 = No longer visible, or built over.
  • 2 = Some evidence visible in the ground: building platforms, mounds and crop marks.
  • 3 = Some ruins are visible above ground.
  • 4 = Visible site with museum support.
  • 5 = A major site and tourist attraction.

In addition, the Roman name of the each site is given, where known.

London

Roman name:Londinium
Translation:The town of Lugh
Condition:5

Founded in 43 AD, London was originally established as a fort. There is evidence of three Legions in the city, the Second (Augusta), the Sixth (Victorious) and the Twentieth. It was constructed at a suitable point on the Thames where a bridge could be built using the islands in the river. Protected by substantial walls enclosing an area of of 145,000 sq metres, and a legionary fort, Londinium's houses were mostly built from stone. It had many fine stone municipal buildings, including a governor's palace, theatres. The temples were dedicated to a variety of deities: Jupiter, Cybele, Sol Invictus, Mithras, Mars, the Spirits of the Emperors and Isis.

LONDINI AD FANVM ISIDIS


From London the temple of Isis, this inscription was found inscribed on pottery in a settlement on Watling Street, on the Kent side of the Thames. This appears to indicate that there was a souvenir trade established near the temples in the city.

The streets were mainly paved. The town achieved the status of provincial capital in 190 AD and the city walls were started shortly after. At this time London's six land gates were established and their names and locations still survive. They are Lud Gate, New Gate, Alders Gate, Cripple Gate3, Bishops Gate and Ald Gate. There was also a bridge over the Thames to the south of the city.

Roads leaving London at this important road junction:

  • To the south over the Thames bridge to Hassocks 44 miles
  • To the north west from AldGate the road to Brockley Hill (Sulloniacis)
  • To the north-east from Alders Gate to Chelmsford (Caesaromagus), Baylim House (Combretovium) and Castor St Edmunds (Venta Icenorum)
  • To the south-east over the Thames bridge to Titsey and the Titsey villa estate 18 miles
  • To start your journey on Ermine Street proceed north to Braughing 27 miles

Total so far 0 miles.

Braughing

Condition:2

Braughing was an Iron Age settlement built by the Catuvellauni as the capital of king Tasciovanus before the Roman invasion. The town's situation close to the Icknield Way4 made it well placed for trade. There was access to the sea from a small river port on the River Rib that served the town. It was built as a defended settlement with earth and timber ramparts and a ditch. It was built alongside Ermine Street in a prosperous agricultural area and was a market town with shops and warehouses. The settlement covered 36,000 sq metres, and consisted of timber-framed and stone-built houses5 and a few stone municipal buildings. The streets in the town were mainly paved. There were five cemetery enclosures
found near the town.

Total so far 27 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north to Wimpole Lodge 16 miles
  • On Stane Street continue east to Bishop's Stortford 6 miles

Wimpole Lodge

Condition:1

Little is known about this small settlement that was situated on either side of Ermine Street. It was a settlement of flint, stone and timber-framed housing with tiled roofs and a few trade buildings and shops. There is evidence of trade and iron working in the town. Roman iron was not cast; it was forged red hot with hammer and anvil. Sheet iron was joined with rivets or welded while white hot. The iron trade was very sophisticated and spanned the Empire. The smelted raw material was traded as rods or bars and broken or worn out iron items were recycled as scrap iron, this was a major local source of supply for the blacksmith.

Total so far, 43 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north west to Godmanchester - Durovigutum 15 miles
  • To the east to Great Chesterford 12 miles
  • To the north to Duroliponte 10 miles

Godmanchester

Roman name:Durovigutum
Translation:A Thriving Strongpoint
Condition:2

Originally a fort, this settlement was situated across Ermine Street on a crossing of the River Great Ouse6. Forts (holding between 800 to 5,000 men) were often the first stage of a settlement, a town or vicus grew up to serve the fort, and then developed as a self supporting economy. It was a settlement with a mansio and a bath house, there was a fine Basilica and three temples. The housing was quality stone or timber-framed, there were paved streets, and a busy commercial area with trade buildings, granaries, shops and warehouses. At this time the town's walls enclosed an area of 9,000 sq metres7.

Total so far, 58 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north east to Water Newton (Durobrivae) 19 miles
  • On The Via Devana continue south east to Cambridge (Dvroliponte) 14 miles
  • To the south west to Sandy 14 miles
  • To the north west to Thrapston 19 miles

Water Newton

Roman name:Durobrivae
Translation:The Bridge by the Fort
Condition:3

Originally a fort this town was situated across Ermine Street on a crossing of the River Nene. A strong defended settlement with earth and stone ramparts and ditches. Access to the town was by three strong gateways, it was one of the wealthiest settlements in Britain and a centre of a prosperous pottery trade. The housing was quality stone and timber-framed, there were paved streets a fine Basilica and several temples and alters, and a mansio and a bath house. A milestone was found one mile from the town the inscription reads.

IMP CAES M ANNIO FLORIANO P F INVICTO AVG M P I


Imperator Caesar Marcus Annius Florianus Loyal and Unconquered Augustus. A thousand paces.

There was a busy commercial area with trade buildings, pottery workshops, shops. granaries and warehouses. The settlement was the trading center for the pottery industry in the area. Roman pottery was classified into either fine ware and course ware. The best known fine ware was samian ware but there are examples of marbled stamped and glazed wares. Course wares were plain and generally undecorated, cooking pots, storage jars, and kitchen ware were the most common types in every day use.

Total so far, 77 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north west to Great Casterton 11 miles
  • To the north to Bourne 15 miles
  • To the south west to Ashton 8 miles
  • On the Fen Causeway east to Longthorpe 8 miles

Great Casterton

Condition:1

Originally a fort this settlement of around 8,000 sq metres8, was situated across Ermine Street in a bend of the River Gwash. It was a settlement with a mansio and a bath house, there was a Basilica and a temple. The housing was quality stone or timber-framed, there were paved streets, and a busy commercial area with ore-smelting and pottery trade and related buildings, granaries, shops and warehouses. There was a cemetery to the south of the town.

Total so far, 88 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north to Saltersford (Durobrivae) 18 miles
  • To the north west to Thistleton 9 miles

Saltersford

Roman name:Durobrivae
Condition:1

This was a small and relatively unimportant settlement that was situated on Ermine Street. Little is known and it was likely that it was a settlement of timber-framed housing and a few trade buildings and shops. The settlement was likley to have been involved in the trade from the Woolsthorpe iron-mines9. The iron trade was very sophisticated and spanned the Empire. As a raw material iron was traded as rods or bars thease would have been produced at the mines for trade distribution.

  • On Ermine Street continue north to Ancaster (Cavsennae) 5 miles
  • To the south west to Denton 5 miles
  • Total so far, 106 miles.

    To continue your journey:

Ancaster

Roman name:Cavsennae
Condition:2

There was originally a British tribal village here before an auxiliary fort was built. This settlement10 of 10,000sq metres, was situated alongside Ermine Street and grew to serve the fort. The housing was quality stone or timber-framed, there were paved streets, and a busy commercial area11 with related buildings, granaries, shops and warehouses.

A local god Viridius12 had an arch dedicated to him in the town by Trenico, indicating a reasonable level of prosperity in the town.

DEO VIRIDIO TRENICO ARCVM FECIT DE SVO DON

The god Viridius, Trenico had this arch made, as gift paid for by his money.

There was a large villa a short distance to the north of the town on the eastern side of Ermine Street

Total so far, 111 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north to Lincoln (Lindum) 18 miles
  • To the south east to Sapperton 7 miles

Lincoln

Roman name:Lindum
Translation:Pool Of Dark Water
Condition:4

The settlement of Lincoln was first founded as a legionary fort of the IX Legion13 in 46 - 47 AD.

The town was founded with good connections to London - (Londinium) via Ermine Street, trade flourished. A Colonia was founded in 98 AD, by time served legionaries and thair families, and at this time the town walls were built. A basilica, forum, temple and baths were built; these were followed by a temple complex. The main deites in the settlement were,

DEO MARTI

The God Mars
DEO MERCVRESIVM

The God Mercury

The home's were of timber and stone and mosaic floors were not uncommon. There was a wide variety of shops. bronze making, brick, tile and pottery production were all established in the town which had grown to a settlement of 40,000 sq metres, by this time, and enclosed by low stone walls and a defensive ditch. At this time the fort's four gates were rebuilt. The civil settlement had by this time expanded beyond the walls in the area near the River Witham. This was the northern terminus of the Fosse Way and travellers had to continue north or south on Ermine Street.

To continue your journey:

Total so far, 129 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street north to Owmby 10 miles
  • To the north west to Marton 15 miles
  • To the south east to Sleaford (Bannovalum) 18 miles
  • To the east to Horncastle 22 miles
  • On the Fosse Way continue south west to Brough (Crococalana) 10 miles

Owmby

Condition:1

This settlement was situated on Ermine Street. Vitrualy nothing is known and it was likely that it was a settlement of timber-framed housing with a few trade buildings and a local market.

Total so far, 139 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north to Hibaldstow 11 miles
  • To the west to Segelocum 16 miles

Hibaldstow

Condition:1

Just as Owmby this minor settlement was situated on Ermine Street. Little is known and it was likely that it was a settlement of timber-framed housing and a few trade buildings and shops.

Total so far, 150 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north to Winteringham 11 miles
  • To the west to Segelocum 16 miles

Winterton Villa Estate - (2)

Ermine Street passes a land mark on this part of the journey, the villa estate of Winterton. The estate in the area. It had the evidence of several buildings serving the villa, by its size it was an important estate this area.

Winteringham

Condition:1

Just as Owmby this minor settlement was situated on Ermine Street and on the banks of the river Humber. Little is known anout this settlement apart from that was a crossing point for the Humber ferry, with landing stages to handle the river traffic. It was likely that it was a settlement of timber-framed housing and a few trade buildings and shops, and it was possable it was a minor port.

Total so far, 161 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • By ferry continue north to Brough on Humber (Petvaria) the northern ferry corssing point of the river Humber (Abus Fluvius) 3 miles
  • To the south east to Kirmington 12 miles

Brough on Humber

Roman name:Petvaria
Translation:One of Four Towns
Condition:1

Established as a legionary fort of the IX Legion in 71 AD, and as a tribal city of the Parisi. The town had a wide variety of quality housing, several temples, a good theatre, stone municipal buildings and mainly paved streets and was a crossing point for the Humber ferry.

Total so far, 164 miles.

To continue your journey:

  • On Ermine Street continue north to York (Eburacum) 29 miles
  • On Cade's Road continue north`to Newcastle-upon-Tyne (Pons Aelius) 100 miles
  • To the south east to Kirmington 12 miles
  • By ferry south to Winteringham the southern ferry corssing point of the river Humber

York

Roman name:Eburacum
Translation:Place of Yew Trees
Condition:5

Founded in 71 AD, York was originally a fortress for the Legion IX The Spanish or Hispania. It was constructed at a suitable point near the Rivers Fosse and Ouse where a bridge could be built. It had a ready supply of timber for construction work. And positioned on a sandstone outcrop and protected by the river Fosse to the south and the river Ouse east, and with substantial walls and the legionary fort, York thrived. The houses were mostly built from stone. The town had many fine stone municipal buildings, including a governor's palace. The streets were mainly paved and the town was prousperous. Theatres, a hippodrome and temples to the gods including, Genius Cucullatus and others

DEO FORTUNA
The Goddess Of Fate and Good Fortune
DEO MITHRAS
The God Of Soldiers and a Sun God

There were also temples to the spirits of the Emperors.

The IX Legion was replaced by the VI Legion the conquering in about 120 AD by order of the Empeor Hadrian.
The town achieved the status of provincial capital in 190 AD, and was about 50,000 sq metres, at this time.

Total so far: 193 miles, 190 miles on the Fosse Way and 3 miles by sea.

Roads leaving York at this important road junction:

To continue your journey:

  • On Dere Street continue north west to Aldborough (Isurium Brigantum) 15 miles
  • To the north east to Malton (Derventio) 17 miles
  • On Ermine Street south east to Brough on Humber (Petvaria) 28 miles
  • To the south by ferry to Winteringham the southern ferry corssing point of the river Humber
  • On Ryknild Street south west to Tadcaster(Calcaria) 10 miles

Notes on Roman Roads

Initially, the cost of the road was borne by the state; after that it was the responsibility of the local government to raise the money to keep the road in good repair. An official called the Curatores Viarum was appointed who had to raise the money to maintain the roads in his care.
Roman roads were not free. There were tolls collected at the towns along the course of the road. As a point of interest, the bridges were a particular source of revenue. This explains the survival and continuous use of fords along the routes.

A Roman mile is 1,000 paces and a milestone was set up to mark each mile.
Each milestone had a dedication to the Emperor of the day. At the height of the expansion of the Empire, roads were built at the rate of one kilometre every day.

1Navigable at this time for small boats and barges, goods were trans shipped to sea going vessels on the Humber.2Please note this is based on personal visits and a thorough search of the sites on the internet. Please use this as a guide only, and check any site prior to any visit.3Cripple Gate was the main gate from the Hadrianic legionary fort.4The Romans were not the first road builders in Britain. Running from Lyme Regis to Hunstanton the Icknield Way dates from the Iron Age.5Flint was a common building material.6There is the River Ouse known as the The Great Ouse flowing from the midlands into the Wash And the northern River Ouse that starts when the rivers Swale and Ure join in Yorkshire near a town called Boroughbridge. This river Ouse flows out to sea from the Humber estuary.7The town's final size was 11,000 sq metres.8With stone walls after 320 AD.9The main iron mineing areas of Britain were Wales, Sussex and Staffordshire.10One of 5 tribal sites known to have been re used after the invasion.11Serving the ports on the Wash.12Unknown anywhere else.13The Spanish Legion, this Legion was relieved by the Second (Augusta) and the Sixth (Victorious) within ten years.

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