Great article - just to be picky...
It's the concept of the SS12 that changes sides north of Lucca - not the road itself, as there is one either side of the Serchio. The plan seems to be to send the huge trucks full of trees or marble down the west bank - where the road is a little wider. This means if you are driving a car it's better to ignore the signs at Ponte a Moriano pointing across the river and just continue northward to the junction with the SS445 just before Bagni.
Bridge at Fornaci - not on a motorcycle! What you do is drive at it as fast as possible. Once you have possesion of the bridge, traffic coming in the opposite direction *will* stop and will not try to enter the bridge until it is clear (honest). I don't think this would work on a two wheeled vehicle as stuff coming the other way would just try to squeeze past and it's a very tight squeeze. I'm always so relieved to get over the bridge intact - cos it's not a short bridge I never worry about the railway one.
Rifugio La Buca - agree wholeheartedly.
Addition - you don't actually have to drive over that scary bridge anymore and it's been that way for quite a while. There's a new bridge built - just out of Gallicano on the Lucca road the new bridge (near Bolognana) takes you over the Serchio and into the middle of Fornaci. You needn't be scared ever again (although if you have a 4x4 or people carrier it is really fun to attempt the old bridge during rush hour or to avoid roadworks just to test the nerve of your (by this time terrified) passengers!
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